So that's how a chain sounds when it snaps at 35mph.

[dublinjail]

Took the bike out for a 2hr ride this morning, stopped home for lunch, go back out, look everything over and two blocks from the house- at around thirty five mph all of a sudden a strange noise then the rpms are screaming. At first for about one moment I was just dumbfounded then right away I knew this is what happens when the chain snaps. Thankfully the bike kept coasting and I safely stopped. Could have been alot worse.
Looking at the chain it seems that I had a malfunction at the masterlink. When I put the chain on 2months ago it was a real pain to snap into place. The o-rings would just not cooperate. I wonder if I did something wrong. My buddy who lent me his chain tool buys a non-o-ring chain for this very fact. Plus when I ordered the chain and dropped the front sprocket to 14t I had to remove a ton of links which were a serious pain even with the tool. Anyone have a similar experience with their chains?

[cernunos]

Actually I've never even used an O-ring chain (not counting the current White Owl) on a bike. And I never had a chain failure either. I did replace the old style chains pretty often I suppose, If every 6-7K is often. It never really bothered me to replace them...plus It gave me a chance to go over the bike real good too. GS500 and GStwin forum, how do I love thee...let me count the ways...

Cernunos

[chimivee]

Looking at the chain it seems that I had a malfunction at the masterlink. When I put the chain on 2months ago it was a real pain to snap into place. The o-rings would just not cooperate. I wonder if I did something wrong.

That sucks.  Sounds, though, like the masterlink wasn't installed completely/correctly.  It shouldn't break like that.

What was the problem you had when installing?  Were the pins fully inserted and plate/clips evenly seated?

[dublinjail]

The plate's seemed evenly snapped and seated. The coverlink the plastic type part always seemed higher on one side but not to the point that I was concerned. The problem when installing was when I tried to take the links off with the tool, they would not come off the back pin completely. I had to wrestle it off. It is very strange, I'm still in shock, just glad I didn't drop the bike, thank god I wasn't leaning into a turn.

[Laura]

I'm sure I know less about chains than you do, so I can't help you out there-- but I'm glad things worked out relatively well. It could have been worse.

Laura

[zlei]

Just out of curiousity, which type of master link were you using, clip or rivet?

[Kerry]

Just out of curiousity, which type of master link were you using, clip or rivet?

Hmmm, good question.  If it was a clip-type master link, did you install it in the correct direction?  (Hard to know after 2 months, I suppose.)

A clip-style master link should be installed so that the continuous, rounded, closed end approaches the sprockets first.  If it is installed the other way around, so that the open end approaches the sprockets first, there is a small chance that (one of?) the ends will catch on something and pop off.

I know that it's possible to install it backwards, because a nearby GS500 owner (who shall remain nameless) did it.  Or at least, they were about to do it; I can't remember if I stopped them in the nick of time or if they had to do it over....  :dunno:

[Blueknyt]

the orings have nothing to do with chains early or unexpacted failure. i have used both O-ring and Non-O-ring chains, if the clips are not installed correctly or are damaged for one reason or another its going to fail.  mt GS750E has a 630 chain, the non-oring chain gave me fits all thetime, links being stubburn about retaining lube on hard rides. never had failures with O-ring chains though.

[dgyver]

O-rings have nothing to do with the strength of the chain but do affect longevity. Since you where having problems with the master link, sounds like it was not intalled properly.

I use a x-ring chain with a rivet link on my TLR. My GS has a non-oring chain (less rolling resitance) with a clip link. No issues with either. Not sure what my XR has but I am sure it is a clip link.

When installing a clip type master link, either safety wire it on or put a dap of silicon on it. This may not help in a catastrophic failure but will help keep it from working loose.

This reminds me of my first 5hp minibike. It would throw the chain all the time. Had a clutch brake so I had no way to stop except for Fred Flintstone style. I later adapted a rear brake.

[JLKasper]

I also had a problem installing a master link on an o-ring chain; The plates wouldn't compress enough to expose the groove in the pins so I could attach the clip.  I had to use vise grips, which squished the hell out of the o-rings.  The chain I used also required removing links, and the quad staked pins were hell to push through.  Nothing has been amiss since then, but then again it's only a Honda 250, similar to a Rebel.  

[chimivee]

I also had a problem installing a master link on an o-ring chain; The plates wouldn't compress enough to expose the groove in the pins so I could attach the clip.  I had to use vise grips, which squished the hell out of the o-rings.

A pair of small inexpensive C-clamps works very well to install the plate on a clip style master link.  One surface of the clamp usually has a "hole" in it where the ball joint is and if you center this over the pin, there is clearance for the pin once it passes through the plate.  Or you can use a nut for more clearance.  Tighten each clamp gently, a little at a time so the plate seats evenly.  Takes just a few minutes.

Hard to explain, but easy to figure out w/ the parts in hand.

[dublinjail]

Thanks to all for the advice and experiences. I feel that a number of the posts toch on what the culpert was. Jasper, I had the same problem of getting it to compress completly and used vice pliers. Well, looks like I'll be getting some more experience sooner than I had expected.