daily progressive spring post

[crash]

my progressive springs came in today, so i'm planning on switching them out this weekend.  i've been reading around, and i have a few questions.

- if i'm placing a fork leg in a vise, do i grip by bottom or top tube?

- if the fork leg is flipped upside down, will anything below the spring (damper, etc) fall out?

- which way do the progressive springs go in? the bikepower article is adamant about the tighter end pointing up. however, the instructions that came with the springs say that it doesn't matter, but pointing the tighter end down may reduce spring noise.

- if i am replacing springs and oil, but not touching the seals, do i have to mess with the allen bolts at the bottom of each fork leg? (and thus do i need The Tool?)

i think this is all for now... thanks in advance for the help  

[wasabi_peas]

If I get the house painting done this weekend, I'll be installing my springs as well.  If I don't, my wife will hang me up by my toes....

Dunno 'bout the vise.  But I plan to grab it by the fork outer (lower) since I don't want to scratch the upper.

Dunno about what will fall out.  But I'll find out.....   I think all you'll get out is the spring, stock spacer, and oil.  That's what I gather.

OK, how bout I skip to what I know.   You shouldn't need the tool since you're not changing the fork seals.   It sounds like we'll be inverting the fork, pumping the old oil out, etc.   And this requires removing both fork legs, but not disassembling further.

What are you gonna do for the spacer?  I planned to follow Kerry's 1/2in Sched 80 PVC coupler   plan, assuming I can find one at Home Depot.

[crash]

yeah, i'm definitely shopping around for a PVC spacer... cutting up stock ones doesn't seem like a good idea to me

[Kerry]

- if i'm placing a fork leg in a vise, do i grip by bottom or top tube?

I would say the bottom, but I would recommend skipping the vise altogether.  Loosen the top bolt (with a socket-less 1/2" drive socket wrench) before you ever loosen the fork clamp bolts in the upper and lower yokes.  As long as you only work on one fork tube at a time, and replace the first one before removing the other one, no vise should be necessary.

- if the fork leg is flipped upside down, will anything below the spring (damper, etc) fall out?

Nope.  The "inner stuff" won't come out until you loosen the damper rod bolt (using The Tool or some other method) and the "outer stuff" won't come out until you pry up the dust seal and remove the retaining clip.

- which way do the progressive springs go in? the bikepower article is adamant about the tighter end pointing up. however, the instructions that came with the springs say that it doesn't matter, but pointing the tighter end down may reduce spring noise.

I don't remember which way I put mine in for sure, but I think it was tighter end down.  I don't think it really matters....

- if i am replacing springs and oil, but not touching the seals, do i have to mess with the allen bolts at the bottom of each fork leg? (and thus do i need The Tool?)

Nope.


Let us know how it goes!  

[MarkusN]

- which way do the progressive springs go in? the bikepower article is adamant about the tighter end pointing up. however, the instructions that came with the springs say that it doesn't matter, but pointing the tighter end down may reduce spring noise.

They are both right. placing the thigt part up reduces undamped masses, which is something you strive for in a suspension. OTOH, the effect is probably negligible, and if you have the tight part in the oil that will reduce clatter from the tight part locking up.

...(and thus do i need The Tool?)

Personally, I like to put The Tool to good use...

[Michael]

- if the fork leg is flipped upside down, will anything below the spring (damper, etc) fall out?i think this is all for now... thanks in advance for the help  

No, no other bits will fall out but you will get covered in oil if you're not careful.  :lol:

[scratch]

Regarding the matter of which way to put the fork springs in; true it does not matter which way you put them in, dampening-wise, weight-wise, center-of-gravity-wise, but do note that the tighter end, when placed downward, will displace more fork oil thus raising the level; and maybe more than anticipated and will blow a fork seal.

[zlei]

Here's a link to the instruction sheet for installing the springs.
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdf/3055.pdf

[EvilScooby]

Isn't there a way to replace the springs without removing the forks?

I remember seeing a post with a link, Removing the handlebars and doing it from the top

maybe I am in a daze :dunno:

[Alias]

Isn't there a way to replace the springs without removing the forks?

I remember seeing a post with a link, Removing the handlebars and doing it from the top

maybe I am in a daze :dunno:

If your not gonna change the fork oil then you can. Unless someone knows a way to pump ou the old oil.

[Kerry]

Isn't there a way to replace the springs without removing the forks?

I remember seeing a post with a link, Removing the handlebars and doing it from the top

You're probably thinking about the Progressive fork spring install-the lazy way page on Pablo's site.  This is the method I used.

But if/when my fork seals start leaking, "I'm going in!  Cover me."

[EvilScooby]

But if/when my fork seals start leaking, "I'm going in!  Cover me."

Thats what I am afraid of too. I can pretty much work on anything on the bike, but the front suspension looks intimidating

[crash]

I would recommend skipping the vise altogether.  Loosen the top bolt (with a socket-less 1/2" drive socket wrench) before you ever loosen the fork clamp bolts in the upper and lower yokes.

yeah, i'm just not too keen on removing the handlebars as well  

[AR5ENAL]

Seriously, it's not that bad.  I was totally intimidated by this project, and once i got stuff apart, it really didn't look that daunting.  If there's any chance that your fork seals might be leaking, or old, or just due for replacing anyway...do them now.  My forks weren't leaking at all, but i replaced the seals anyway; it gave me a good excuse to dismantle the forks and clean everything up nice and purty.  

If you grip the fork in a vice, make sure to grip the lower part (i.e., not the fork tube)
If you're not replacing seals, the only things that fall out of the fork are:
    *the spacer
    *the washer/seat thingee
    *the old fork spring (it's pathetic...you'll see)
    *cruddy fork oil (blechhhhh)
I put my progressives in with the tight coils on the bottom.  No spring chatter so far, and they're more than stiff enough.
If you're not messing with the seals, there's no need for Kerry's fabulous tool, but seriously, the tool makes it so easy, it's really worth doing.  It also helps if you have two people: one to hold the Kerry Tool, and one to crank off the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork.

*Kerry*, are you sure that you want to loosen the fork cap bolt _before_ you loosen the top fork pinch bolts?  My Haynes says to break torque on the upper pinch bolts first, to relieve pressure on the top of the forks, which will allow for easier removal of the fork cap bolts.  This is the way I did it, and it seemed to work fine.

[scratch]

Note: fork oil should be replaced every other year, but I have gone as long as 5 years (on me lil 250), because the oil just looked too good to change and fork action was so good (on stock springs... ).

[Kerry]

Seriously, it's not that bad.  I was totally intimidated by this project, and once i got stuff apart, it really didn't look that daunting.

Yeah, I helped Richard with his and it really isn't a horrible job or anything.  It can get a little messy, but.....

*Kerry*, are you sure that you want to loosen the fork cap bolt _before_ you loosen the top fork pinch bolts?  My Haynes says to break torque on the upper pinch bolts first, to relieve pressure on the top of the forks, which will allow for easier removal of the fork cap bolts.

I stand corrected about the "top yoke fork clamp" bolts.  (It's probably better to loosen them BEFORE you loosen the fork cap bolt, although I didn't bother when I swapped out my springs using Pablo's "lazy" method.)  I mostly wanted to say that if you loosen the fork cap bolt before you drop the fork out of the yokes you shouldn't need a vise.

yeah, i'm just not too keen on removing the handlebars as well  

I can understand that, I guess.  Valid point!

[crash]

bah! out of all the things...

i can't find any fork oil.  neither advance auto parts nor napa carry "fork oil".  i'm going to try a couple of the local MC dealerships tomorrow

any other ideas?

[Kerry]

I've never looked for fork oil anywhere but at a motorcycle dealership (or online).  You should be able to find some Yamaha or Honda or Spectro oil at one of the MC dealerships.

[crash]

ridiculousness!

i went to 3 dealerships and not a single one had 15W fork oil... had to buy 10W instead

[crash]

well, it's done (unless it falls apart )

had to use 10W oil, and had some problems getting the fork brace off, but i rode it around the neighborhood and seems much better.