Case savers.... done...

[The Buddha]

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/seshadrisrinath/album?.tok=phsafbBBbXKZ1llG&.dir=/38ee&.src=ph

That's the link to my yahoo... hope they open wihout you having to register.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Rema1000]

Got my case savers today (woo-hoo!):



UPS tracking says that it was delivered to me on Friday here in Minnesota (which would have been 3 days), but actually it showed-up at my house this morning (4 business days since they were shipped).  Which is still good.

One rod had a nyloc nut, the other didn't... but there was a hole the size of a quarter in one corner of the box.  I suspect that the rod may have poked-out, then gotten shaken around: there's a bunch of shredded newspaper around that bolt.  If I go buy a replacement nut, what grade of steel does it need to be?  Or, I could just re-use the nuts from the bike, which should be  adequate strength (?).

If I had to make a suggestion about shipping:  

Take a 3x5 index card (or same sized piece of cardboard, like from a cereal box), and fold over each end of each nut, and tape in place.  

Also, the contents were very loose; about 3x as much newspaper would be good.  

Another thing I like to do, is go to the FedEx drop-off boxes; they have a pile of those FedEx LargePak Tyvek envelopes which you can grab, which are tear-proof (postoffices have them too).  If you put each case saver into a separate envelope, that would protect the powder-coat nicely.  There were a couple of tiny nicks through the powdercoating on mine, but they're not too visible, and I think I'll rub some permatex into them to seal them back up.

[Rema1000]

You recommended mounting the ears outside the frame, to minimize potential damage.  It looks like I will need a 7/8-inch spacer on each side of the bottom bolt.  On the top bolt, I would only need a 1/2" spacer on the left, and a 5/8" spacer on the right, in order to clear the frame.  But if I did different sized spacers on top and on the bottom, the case savers would not be straight, and that would stress the bolts.

So I should probably use 7/8" spacers both on the top and on the bottom.  The case saver ears will then sit about 3/8"-1/2" outside the outside edge of the frame on the top bolts.  If the goal is to mount the case savers just outside the frame, on both the top AND the bottom, then perhaps what you want are case savers which reach 1/2" further inwards at the top.  The way they are currently, they will go either inside the frame, or outside, which is more flexible, but will look less "finished" when mounted outside the frame.

Maybe I can find a bag of 20 3/16"-thick washers, and put 5 on each bolt-end.  Or I could just use a slightly larger nut, like a couple of 7/16" nuts on each bolt-end as "spacers"?

[The Buddha]

Oh crap UPS box break... again... glad just a nut was lost... the nut is a 3/8th 16 tpi... nylock... not stock...
Doesn't have to be entirely outside... just the motor will be good... just dont want the motor getting punched as it even begins to deform... Outiside the lips the engine mounts are... I cant explain... I didn't take pics... but a bit off the mounts and motor is all I thought it should be... How much is a bit... no idea... 7/8th so is too much... 1/4 to 1/2 inch was what I had in mind...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Rema1000]

How I did the install:

-At the hardware store, buy:
- -2 @ 3/8" lock nuts
- -4 @ small-Outer-Diameter 3/8" washers (from the "SAE steel washers" box; the ones in the 3/8" washer bin were large O.D.)
- -Another 4 to 12 @ small-outer-diameter 3/8" washers to use as spacers.  See "spacer notes" at bottom.

-Put the bike on centerstand.
-Remove the top engine mounting nut on the right side of the bike using a 14mm socket.  
- -The bolt head on the other side can be held in-place using a 14mm wrench.  
- -If you crouch over the front wheel, you can reach the socket and nut with the left hand, while holding the wrench and bolt with the right hand.(--Indestructableman)

-Put a thin coat of lithium grease on one of the new case bolts, and thread onto it:
- -a washer (not shown in image below)
- -the top ear of the right-hand case saver
- -spacer washer(s) (I used a nut as a "spacer" in the picture below, see "spacer notes" at bottom)


-push the new bolt in, pushing the existing bolt out the left side in the process.  It slid in easily for me; there was no weight on the bolt at all.  The spacers stayed in-place.


-Put a 3/8" nyloc nut lightly on the left end of the new bolt to keep it in place


-Remove the bottom engine mounting nut on the left side.  
- -The bolt head on the other side can be held in-place using a 14mm wrench.  
- -You can lay on the ground on the right side of the bike, and turn the socket with the left hand, while reaching under the bike with the right hand to hold the wrench.(--Indestructableman)

-Coat the other new bolt with grease, and thread onto it: a washer, the bottom ear of the right-side case saver, and spacer washer(s).
-Push it in, pushing the old bottom bolt out the right side.  I was surprised to find no pressure on this bottom bolt either.  I could jiggle both the top and bottom engine mount bolts loosely.  I guess that the third (rear) engine mounting bolt was taking all of the engine's weight now?

Now moving to the left side of the bike, push "spacer" washer(s) onto each bolt (again using a nut as a "spacer" in this picture, see "spacer notes at bottom):


...and:
- -an ear of the left-side case saver
- -a washer
- -a locknut

Put blue loctite in the nuts, and screw them on finger-tight.

Tightening is a bit more involved (takes two wrenches ).

I continued using the 14mm sockets, since they seemed to fit Srinath's bolts OK.  However, once the bolts were half-tightened, the threaded end of the bolt stuck-out too far for me to continue using a regular 14mm socket (and I don't have a deep-well socket set).  Instead, I put a wrench on the nut, and braced it to keep it from turning: on the lower mounting nut, I hooked the handle of the wrench underneath the sidestand bracket, and tightened the bolt from the right side using a regular 14mm socket, and finishing with a torque wrench to about 50 ft-lbs.  


On the upper mounting nut, I braced the handle of the wrench from below using some lumber.


On the right side of the bike, there wasn't enough clearance between the case saver and the bolt head to fit a large-headed socket bar (e.g. Craftsman 1/2" drive), without scratching the case saver.  I added two 3" socket extenders so that the socket bar was out past the end of the case saver.

So: you might have noticed that the nuts are now on the opposite side of the bike from when I started.  I removed the OEM nuts from the right side of the bike, then pushed the new bolts through right-to-left, so now the new nuts are on the left side. The has worked for me for a week of riding, and I don't see any problems there.

Also, the new bottom bolt is protruding almost an inch beyond the nyloc nut; the bolt appears to be longer than it needs to be.  However, the extra bolt thread doesn't seem to be in a place to catch on anything. You can cut the end off and file if it bothers you.

Tools needed for my install were:
-14mm wrench (or a good adjustable wrench)
-14mm socket, extension(s), socket bar and torque wrench
-pile of 2x4s
-grease
-loctite

That's it!  I did not need a hammer or pliers; I did not need to support the engine from below with a jack.  I saw no reason to get help from a 2nd person.  Overall, I'd rate the difficulty of installing these to be about the same as changing the oil.  

Finished:


View of the right case-saver from the seat, and also showing the new "Lay-Z-Boy recliner" footrest:


Spacer notes: Srinath suggests that it's good to use spacer washer(s) to move the ears 1/4" or so out from the block.  This is optional, but reduces risk to the engine block should the case saver twist during a crash.  Also, there is some welding slag on the tabs on the frame, which would have prevented mounting the case savers without at-least one spacer washer.  A good spacer will sit snugly around the shaft of the 3/8" bolt, yet be small enough in outer diameter to sit flush against the frame tab.  If your hardware store has some small outer-diameter 3/8" washers, then those work best.  You might also use 3/8" split lock washers, which have very small outer diameter, although those will scratch the paint.  You would use as many as necessary to add 1/8" to 1/4" thickness between the frame tabs and the case saver ears.

My little neighborhood hardware store did not have suitably-small outer-diameter 3/8" washers, so I used a single 7/16" nut as a spacer under each mounting ear.  Some 7/16" nuts will fit over the threads of the case saver bolts without cross-threading or binding, but others from the same nut bin will not, so if you want to do this, take the bolt to the store and try-before-you-buy.  1/2" nuts would slide-on easier, but would be looser around the bolt shaft.

EDIT:   After 1 week of riding, no problems have been noticed; actually, no real difference has been noticed in riding, except for having the foot-rests.

[indestructibleman]

thanks for the pics.

it looks like i should be able to work those with my chin fairing no problem.

can't wait for my pair to arrive.

cheers,
will

[The Buddha]

Wowee... Nice write up... Glad you didn't have trouble... BTW you are the first to have fitted it on... My bolts are all 12 in... the stockers are some weird ass length... and yes one shorter than the other... I couldn't buy 11.5 inchers... I had no idea if it will be enough... given the liberal tolerances on the bikes frame etc... Using a larger nut as a spacer was pretty clever...
Cool.
Srinath.

[crash]

i've had mine on the bike since the 6th... just too lazy to take pics  :mrgreen:

i used 3 washers on each side to give a little padding.  there's still quite a lot (~1.5in) of bolt left after the nylock went on, that i feel like i SHOULD cut off (but don't want to).  i guess that's the part you were worried about bending in a crash, srinath

[The Buddha]

I was not exactly refering to the spare length of bolt left sticking out... That can be cut or left or... makes not much diff. I was refering to the bolt itself bending... and if that does happen the feet of the case guards whcih are right between the motor and frame will end up twisting in place, and I said if they are a little off the motor which is why we space them out a bit that lessens the damage it might do.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Cal Price]

Maybe like these,

[The Buddha]

That is incredible... same as what kerry got... If I had access to those I'd have made those...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Kerry]

Well, not quite the same, but the same idea.

My guards use all 3 engine mounting points, and Cal's guards rest on the frame at the bottom instead.  Probably works out about the same, although I can see at least ONE advantage to Cal's arrangement:  He still has access to the lower left mounting screw for the right-side engine cover.

And I wonder if there isn't less risk of damage to Cal's engine?  It depends on the nature of the crash, I suppose....

[The Buddha]

OK I am comming down to the last few... I have everyone that I have committed to so far covered... all those that have paid for it etc is all covered. The weekend delivery thing I am making is also covered... After that I probably have ~3-4 sets. Just a heads up...  Next lot will be a few months from now and have smaller OD tubing and narrower flat bar for end plates to make manufacturing easier.
Cool.
Srinath.

[indestructibleman]

got mine yesterday and installed them this morning.
i'd caution people using nuts as spacers.
i bought 4 7/16th nuts.  two of them fit over the bolts, two of them wouldn't.  i bored those two out with my dremel.
anyway, whilst installing the bars, one of the 7/16th nuts that i hadn't bored became horridly cross-threaded.  i really thought i would have to just cut the bolt and get a new one.
fortunately, my hammer proved quite persuasive and the threads weren't significantly damaged.
anyway, aside from that one hitch, they went on quite well and i didn't have to do anything to my chin fairing.
thanks Srinath, they look great.

cheers,
will

[The Buddha]

Pics please...
Cool.
Srinath.

[Rema1000]

got mine yesterday and installed them this morning.
i'd caution people using nuts as spacers.
i bought 4 7/16th nuts.  two of them fit over the bolts, two of them wouldn't.

Thanks Indestructableman (IDSM for short?), I've updated my described installation to recommend using the "right tool for the job", which means 3/8" small-outer-diameter washers.  Also added your note about reaching around the bike and under the bike.  I added a postscript describing possible alternatives (lock nuts, 7/16" nuts, 1/2" nuts) and their drawbacks.

[The Buddha]

Shushhhhh you 2... you are scaring the people away...I still have a few I gotta sell...  :lol:  Here is the explaination...
These 2 are working wayyyyy off the engineering guide books... Using nuts 1 size bigger as spacers... So while it works (with due attention to the binding and filing routine) its sorta off the wall a little. Washers... and small OD is needed... or drill up some pennies or some like that... and that makes for spacers I was talking about. These 2 are too lazy to go to a store that has washers. So they decided to show horn a few nuts in...
Cool.
Srinath.

[indestructibleman]

i'd recommend 1/2" nuts.

anyway, my folks will be here this weekend and i'll ask my dad to bring his digital camera so i can get some photos.

cheers,
will

[indestructibleman]

another handy installation tip:

i was able to tighten the top bolt by crouching in front of the front wheel (with one knee on either side).  this allowed me to operate a wrench on one side, and a ratchet with a deep socket on the other.

for the lower bolt, it's easy to reach if you lie on your back next to the bike and reach underneath.

cheers,
will

[indestructibleman]