do i need just a sprocket or a chain too BAH HELP ?

[pprider]

so here is a short summary, i was riding had to do a U-turn in one of those parts of the road that people only really use for u-turning. anyways i came to a stop and went to put my foot down and it was a down hill so went further then i expected then i hit some gravel and my foot slipped and down i went. i couldnt stop the bike from hitting but it was let down REALLY soft so with my adrenaline i ripped it back up it wasnt even on the ground long enough to cut off, i look over the bike not a scratch thank you god!

i go to continue on my way, and i put it in first and it doesnt move just reves i start to roll it forward and it locks the front tire up , i look down and the chain in the back is off :x  so i do it like a bicycle cause thats all i know and put a few links on the sprocket and to my suprise rolls right on. well then i see its loose as hell! so i ride it home and next day i tighten it up with my g/f's fatehr who used to ride dirtbikes, he says the sprocket is worn (new one came with bike) so we have it tight (properly) and we spin the tire, and about 3/4ths the way around it stops sudden, i look down and the links arent seating... one person said its probably frozen links , i havent lubed the chain in the aprox. 1,000 miles ive ridden the bike and washed it 2x. so i am definetly doing the sprocket change should i get a new chain? what about the front sprocket?

[rcepluch]

Is your chain really rusty?  Try cleaning it very well and then lube it to see if it loosens up.  Can you tell if the "O" rings on the chain are in good shape?

If you determine that the chain needs replacing then both spockets should also be replaced.  This is common practice.  Replacing only one of these items will only accelerate the wear of the other two items.

Good lluck.


Bob

[pprider]

no its not rusty at all really :/

[rcepluch]

Well, maybe you are lucky and the chain just needs lubrication.  I can't think what else would cause the chain not to seat against the sprocket.  Unless the chain is old and really stretched out.  If thats the case then the chain and sprockets need to be replaced.

Good luck.


Bob

[tt_four]

with the bike up on the center stand, spin the back wheel until you find some links that aren't seating right, then spin it enough that they're off the sprocket, and try to bend them by hand, if they move freely they're not your problem, if they don't, hose them down with wd40, clean them up good, and lube them, and see how it does,

[pprider]

good idea tt ill try that when i go home. maybe ill drop the front sprocket a tooth while im at it

[pprider]

well looks like ill be doing all 3 chain and sprockets

[rcepluch]

What did you find out?  Is the chain messed up?


Bob

[pprider]

it seems every1 ive talked to says no matter what in the long run its most likely a stretched out chain and even if it works properly it shouldnt of come off even if i wrecked it going like 100mph let alone at a stand still and that i should replace it.. now im trying to find out where to buy the chain and the front sprocket

[rcepluch]

"pprider" I see that you have another post going about your chain and sprockets. http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12655

I'm new at this MC maintenance stuff and I just go by what I've read in the shop manuals.  I would certainly recommend that you follow Kerry's advice. (backed up by "gsJack's" experience)

Hope I didn't convince you to buy something that you didn't need.

Good luck.


Bob

[Kerry]

Hiya Bob!

I hope I didn't come on too strong in that other thread.  Swapping both sprockets along with the chain certainly isn't a bad thing to do, just more expensive than is usually necessary.  And I keep forgetting that newer folks haven't been around to read every post from the past year and a half.  

Keep up the good work!  

PS - Check out your PM Inbox.

[pprider]

no no you gave good advice it just seemed sensible for me to do it all at once.. i want the experience anyways

i been here probably close to a year now

[red_phil]

well looks like ill be doing all 3 chain and sprockets
good idea tt ill try that when i go home. maybe ill drop the front sprocket a tooth while im at it

I just did this, not to tricky.
OK I had to cut a link off the end of the chein to shorten it, but that's cos the dumbasses sent me a chain that would have been too long even without dropping a tooth on the front sprocket.

Since changing to a fresh chain and loosing a tooth on the front sprocket I've found the ride to be smoother  esspecially at low speeds.

While youve got the chain and guard off why not use the extra space this provides to adjust the pretension on your rear shock.
I did, it was far easier to get access.

[rcepluch]

Hi Kerry,

No, you certainly did not come on too strong.  I really should not be giving mechanical advice because I have very little experience.  I have only been riding two years (7,000 miles) and the bike was new when I started, so I have not had the need to do much advanced maintenance yet.  I just like to get on the forum once and a while.

I respect your advice very much, and you have helped me out on occasion with good information.  I think I can speak for all of us that your information, diagrams, and photos are all top notch and very much appreciated.  Thank you for all of the hard work and time you spend helping us out.


Bob

PS I updated the URL for my avatar.  Thanks for hosting that.

[pprider]

red what exactly do i do to adjust the tension and how does this effect the ride?

rce man you gave sound advice dont worry i should of thought of that myself an easy idea on how to determine where the problem is

[red_phil]

If you look at the bottom of your rear shock absorber you'll see a 2 inch wide ring with slots cut into it.

If you clean this up youll notice numbers stamped alon the bottom edge.
1 through to 7, this is the pre-tension setting with 7 being the stiffest.

On the left hand side of the bike you'll see in one of the slots two little rivets. The number that is below this slot is you current pretension setting.
As the GS500 has a pretty lame spring on it's shocks I'd recommend setting it to '7' or perhaps '6' if your a light rider.

There is a tool for turning this ring and it is notoriously hard to get it into place and have room to turn it. I didn't have one of these tools so I used two old big flat bladed screwdrivers I slipped one into a slot near the back on the left hand side of the bike and the other into a slot near the fron t on the right hand side of the bike. Then I pushed forwards on the left side screw driver while a mate pushed backward on the right side screw driver.
Once the ring had jumped round one ring, we moved the screw drivers one slot and repeated until the shock was set to 7.

As for what effect this will have. well it should stop the back end drooping as much when you get onto the bike, and make the bike bounce less on big bumps in the road. On the down side it will make the back end bounce over small lumps in the road a bit more. You need to balance what you want. Generally it makes the back end of the bike feel more attached to the road  and makes cornering feel safer.