anyone in GA wanna help me??

jkstyle834 · November 01, 2004, 09:28:32 AM

sync the carbs?? i will buy dinner ^^.... i just dont know how to do it... and its running really rich right now... i dont wanna take it to a shop to sync the carbs... i think i need to adjust float level... anyone who know how to do it that lives in GA... i live in Marietta GA.... HELP Please....

The Buddha · November 01, 2004, 09:31:45 AM

Hey,
You wanna do it on the bike ... You can eyeball synch it off the bike pretty good.... I can explain it if you want.
Cool.
Srinath.

jkstyle834 · November 01, 2004, 10:02:34 AM

but i thought i had to take apart the carb again to adjust the float level... i dont know how to adjust it...

The Buddha · November 01, 2004, 10:08:25 AM

Synch has nothing to do with floats... you want floats set or a synch (both carbs have the butterflies set to open the same = synch) ...
Cool.
Srinath.

jkstyle834 · November 01, 2004, 10:13:45 AM

ok... i went through this before... what's going on with my bike... i ride... in the begginning.... bike runs pretty good... but after the motor warms up... the freakin rpm comes down slow as crap.... it stays up there for a while... you know what i mean?? i tried fixing it with pilot air screws... i couldnt do it... mess with the center air screw... that dont help... what should i do?? so it's not synch??

The Buddha · November 01, 2004, 10:21:24 AM

Oh yea you need 40 pilots the damn thing has this cool feature... POS. MIght as well put in 125 mians and a washer under each needle while you are in there...
Cool.
Srinath.

jkstyle834 · November 01, 2004, 10:25:14 AM

i already got 40 pilots and 125 mains.... but i put 2 washers under each needles... you think that might be the problem...??

The Buddha · November 01, 2004, 10:29:34 AM

If 40/125 then ok where is mix screw set, and what is float level. 3 turns out on mix screw and floats should be at the top of bowl and no higher. 2 washer or 1 ...well that is more mid range ... best to try 2 then remove 1 and see... Most people will do 1, then 2... but whatever... Not much the issue here. You might have an intake vacuum leak or a valve staying open... so a valve adjustment and a leak check is also a good idea.
Cool.
Srinath.

jkstyle834 · November 01, 2004, 10:29:54 AM

maybe i should just put one washer under each needle??

jkstyle834 · November 01, 2004, 10:31:38 AM

where is the valves??? just check all the hose from the carb and tank?? oh yea... after i rejetted my carb... my tank is shaky... what can i do about that...?? am i missing a screw somewhere??

Kerry · November 01, 2004, 11:49:31 AM

Quote from: jkstyle834after i rejetted my carb... my tank is shaky... what can i do about that...?? am i missing a screw somewhere??

The tank is held in place by 2 bolts, one on each side. I'd be surprised if you didn't replace them. It's more likely that the rubber spacer at the front of the frame fell out or is out-of-place.

I'm talking about where the sideways U-channel (I call it a "C channel") that's attached to the front underside of the tank fits around the frame. There should be a piece of rubber wrapped around the frame at that spot. Mine keeps getting pulled out of place when I remove the tank.

This should only apply on '89-'00 models, where the rubber pad is glued on. :x On the '01+ machines that rubber pad is anchored in place with a machine screw.

I think there are also a couple of cube-shaped rubber spacers glued to the tank further back. They sit between the bottom of the tank and the top of the frame. Perhaps one of those is missing?

crash · November 01, 2004, 11:52:07 PM

i know nothing about anything, but i would love to take a look at the guts, if you're going to take your carbs apart.

pm or email me, if you want a flashlight holder

Kerry · November 02, 2004, 12:08:39 AM

For the crucial part of adjusting the float height, see this page from the Haynes manual, especially section 7. The "correct setting" mentioned is 14.6mm +/- 1.0mm. You'll (obviously) have to remove the carbs from the bike and the float bowls from the carbs before you can follow this procedure.

For a low-hassle method of synching the carbs (AFTER they're reassembled and back on the bike) see this post by Lars (and Srinath's subsequent "awestruckness"

). When Lars says "let it fire on ground" he means to reattach the spark plug wire to the removed spark plug and then touch the free tip of the spark plug to the engine or frame of the bike. When the spark coil lets loose with high-voltage pulses you need to give them somewhere to go (the engine or frame) so other ignition parts won't be damaged.

jkstyle834 · November 03, 2004, 08:17:45 AM

i guess i got a project to do tommorow...

jkstyle834 · November 03, 2004, 08:20:40 AM

oh yea... to check your float level... dont you have to take a screw out from the side?? mine is all messed up.. and i cant unscrew it... what's the size of the screw... so i can buy a new one... can i buy one from home depot??? help will be greatly appreciated...

Kerry · November 03, 2004, 09:57:20 AM

Quote from: jkstyle834oh yea... to check your float level... dont you have to take a screw out from the side??

Well, you need to loosen it to get fuel to come out. (See my Float Height Check page.)

Quote from: jkstyle834mine is all messed up.. and i cant unscrew it...

Hmmm. You've tried WD-40 or Liquid Wrench or something to loosen it up?

Quote from: jkstyle834what's the size of the screw... so i can buy a new one... can i buy one from home depot???

To determine the screw size I'd have to take off one of mine.

If you have the tank petcock turned off, maybe you could remove the drain screw from the OTHER carb and take it in? If Home Depot doesn't have it, try other places like Lowe's or ACE Hardware. (Oh, and there's always the dealer.)

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anyone in GA wanna help me??