WTF?? Bike's NOT popping fuses? Progress??

[mrblink]

Anyone know what year(s) are compatable with 1989?  I saw one page say 89-97, but we all know that doesn't really mean anything...

[mrblink]

I thought I'd bump this back up to the top.  Any second opinions before I order a really expensive part??

[John Bates]

Anyone know what year(s) are compatable with 1989?  ...

I would think that any year R/R is compatible.  Even other bikes of similar or larger size, that have the same number of wires, 3 inputs (yellow)  and 2 outputs ( red, black).

It would be nice if you could test it before plunking down the bucks for a replacement.


At Electrexusa.com you will find a generic test procedure for stators and R/Rs.  Testing the R/R is no more difficult than what you have already done with the stator.  It does require a multimeter with a diode check function that reads in volts..

I'm in the process of rewriting this procedure to apply just to the GS.  I'm doing it just for my own benefit and I plan to test it on my GS.

If you're interested I can eMail a rough (untested) copy to you or anyone else who wants to try it.

[mrblink]

Definitely interested!!  Thanks John.

[Rema1000]

Electrex has a test of the R/R diodes at http://www.electrexusa.com/Images/WORLDS_BEST_DIODE_TEST.pdf .   You need a multimeter with a diode-test setting, which should be marked with this symbol:


There is also a general Electrex regulator/rectifier test at http://www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf , but normally you're testing whether it is producing voltage in the correct range... not popping fuses.  But it also tells you how to test A/C voltage between the three alternator leads while the bike is running.
There's an explanation of the R/R at http://www.electrexusa.com/electrex_tech_charging.html

Be sure to inspect the wires at the R/R for an intermittent short.  I've never heard of a R/R which actually blew fuses, but who knows?

[mrblink]

This is all great info.  I'm pretty sure my multimeter has that setting.  Someone on this site has a used R/R off a 96 for a good price.  I'm gonna do these tests either tonight or tomorrow, and make some sort of final diagnosis.

[John Bates]

At Electrexusa.com you will find a generic test procedure for stators and R/Rs.  Testing the R/R is no more difficult than what you have already done with the stator.  It does require a multimeter with a diode check function that reads in volts..

I'm in the process of rewriting this procedure to apply just to the GS.  I'm doing it just for my own benefit and I plan to test it on my GS.

If you're interested I can eMail a rough (untested) copy to you or anyone else who wants to try it.

I now have a tested copy of the electrexusa test chart rewritten to apply specifically to the gs500.  If anyone wants a copy just email/pm me.

[mrblink]

John (and whoever else...) -

I ran through your sheet, and came up with the following:

STATOR TEST

8. Stop the engine. Disconnect the wires coming from the stator.  Switch the multimeter to Ohms, the lowest range on the meter. Measure the resistance between all three combinations of two wires coming from the stator, so you need to take three readings.

If one of the readings is lower than 0.5 Ohms or higher than 2 Ohms go to 9.

If all readings are within 0.5 to 2.0 Ohms go to 10.

all of my readings were ~1.8 ohms[/i]

10. Connect one of the multimeter-leads up to one of the three YELLOW wires. Connect the other multimeter lead up to the engine-case. Check the reading on the meter. Make sure the connection to the engine case is a good one!

If you have any reading lower than 100 Ohms go to 11.

If you have no reading at all or OL on the display go to 12.

I got no reading on any of the yellow wires

12. Switch the multimeter to AC-Voltage (Range at least to 100 Vac). Make sure you DON'T switch it to DC-Voltage (=DCV or Vdc).  Start the engine and rev it up to about 5000rpm. Measure the voltage between all three combinations of two wires coming from the stator, so you need to take three readings.

If the three readings are not equal, or one of them is below 50 Volts (AC) go to 13.

If three equal readings, all higher than 50 Volts AC, the stator is good, go to 14.

2 of them read about 86 volts @ 5,000 RPM.  The third one read about 82 volts.  I don't know if that's close enough or not

R/R TEST:

My multimeter HAS a diode test setting, however, the readings are kind of goofy.  See below:

14. Disconnect the RR red and black-white wires from the bike. Switch the multimeter to the DIODE-TEST function. (The reading on the display will be in VOLTS now, not in Ohms!) Connect the RED multimeter-lead to the RED output wire of the RR.
Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one YELLOW wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for
the two other YELLOW wires.

If the meter shows 1.00 V or lower on one of the three tests go to 15.

If the meter displays OL or a voltage above 1.5 V on all three tests go to 16.

One of the yellow wires read "663", while the other two had no reading.

16. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to the red output wire of the RR. Connect the RED multimeter-lead to one YELLOW wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other YELLOW wires.

If the meter shows lower than 0.2 V or higher than 1.0 V on one of the three tests go to 17.

If the meter displays around 0.5 V on all three tests go to 18.

The three readings are a follows: 464, 490, 512

18. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to the negative BLACK/WHITE output wire of the RR).  Connect the RED multimeter lead to one YELLOW wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other YELLOW wires.

If the meter shows 1.00 V or lower on one of the three tests go to 19.

If the meter displays OL or a voltage above 1.5 on all three tests go to 20.

I got NO reading from any of the yellow wires

20. Connect the RED multimeter-lead to the negative BLACK/WHITE output wire of the RR.  Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one YELLOW wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other YELLOW wires.

If the meter shows lower than 0.2 V or higher than 1.0 V on one of the three tests go to 21.

If the meter displays around 0.5 V on all three tests go to 22.

The three readings are as follows:  494, 514, 508

I sure hope that helps.  If I had to make a guess, I would say that the stator is fine, and the RR is faulty.  Please review and give me your diagnosis.

-Jason

[John Bates]

[se7enty7]

my two (albeit used) stators both read .7 or .8 across the yellows. One has cracked resin and looks like crap (on the bike now) the other looks good..)

[mrblink]

John - No decimal points.  The numbers are just whole like that.  The manual for my multimeter has 1 paragraph of useless information about the diode setting.  If I had to guess, I would say that there's a decimal point on the left side.  That would make sense for the .5 volt readings.  When it's infinity, it has a 1 on the left hand side of the screen.  Readings are on the right side.

I think I need a Fluke.  I used a Fluke at my last job (photo lab repair tech), and it always worked and made sense.  The documentation for my current (no pun intended) meter sucks.

[mrblink]

Man!  Fluke's are expensive!  I guess you get what you pay for though.  Anyone here ever use a "BK Precision" meter?  They look a lot nicer than my current meter, and are less than half the price of a Fluke.

[John Bates]

Yes, Flukes are $$$.   My employer gave all us engineers one for being good I guess.

I think BKs are very good also. The BK2860A would be great with just about the same accuracy as my old F 77 and at half the price of the current F77.

I used a small pocket sized Micronta that I bought at a garage sale along side the Fluke when I made my RR measurements and read nearly the same values. For our use, I don't think you need to pay more than about $35.

[mrblink]

I was looking at the 2704B.

http://bkprecision.com/www/np_searchmodel7.asp?lf=Tool+Kit+%AE+Multimeters

About $60, and my local Fry's might have em in stock.  I think I'm gonna check it out tomorrow.  I need a new toy.

[John Bates]

The 2704B has capacitor and transistor functions not found on the 2704A model.  If you don't do electronic ckt design/repair then save $20 and get the A version. The A is totally adequate for gs500 troubleshooting.

[mrblink]

Got my new 2704B multimeter, and it looks like the RR failed the first test, but passed all the rest.  Here are the results:

Test 14 - .518, OL, OL
Test 16 - .451, .517, .534
Test 18 - OL, OL, OL
Test 20 - .520, .535, .531

[John Bates]

One of the positive diodes (test 14) blew it's top! :guns:

Hope that solves the problem.  

You have a nice meter there.

[Ry_Guy]

Well, did you figure it out yet, MrBlink? I'm definitely saving this thread in case I get any electrical trouble.  

[mrblink]

It looks like the Regulator/Rectifier is bad.  I'll know for sure when I get a new one.

[MarkusN]

I now have a tested copy of the electrexusa test chart rewritten to apply specifically to the gs500.  If anyone wants a copy just email/pm me.

Something for the FAQ section, dontcha think?