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new bike - what to do and what not?

Started by duma, December 03, 2004, 11:58:30 PM

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duma

i just got the GS500 F 2004 and rode it for 30 miles per hour.  i forgot what the dealer told me not to do for the first 600 miles before the first maintenance... is it that i am not supposed to ride over 65mph?  i would call and ask the dealer again, but i thought i would rather ask yall because i think yall know more than the dealer... or maybe im just lazy to call hehehe.  thanks first!

pantablo

keep the rpms below 5,000 for first 600 miles. below 6,000 between 600-1000 miles. get first service at 600 miles (oil/filter change and checking tightness of lots of things-best left to dealer IMO).

Keep varying  the revs -ie dont ride at one rpm for long periods of time. keep going up and down the rpms...and dont sweat it if you pop over the rpm limits occasionally. not a bad thing.

After the first 1000 miles ...let the games begin. You can take it right up to 11k...the sweet spot is about 8k-9.5k...thats where the fun starts.


oh, and congratulations. :thumb:
Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

pantablo

also, whatever you do DONT lug the motor (same as a manual/stick car-the bike likes to rev so keep it as high as you can)...
Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

bikenut

Duma,

You have an owner's manual, it might be under the seat.  The manual gives you instructions on break-in.  Ignore the instructions on shift/downshift rpms in the manual, they are way off.  Also remember that tires and brakes also need to be broken in.  Do not practice panic stops until you have at least 150 miles on the bike.

The bike makes very little power at break in rpms.  Don't get dissapointed.  From 6 grand to redline, the power doubles.
1966 160cc     Ducati Jr.
1970 CB160    Honda
1971 650        BSA Lighning Bolt
1980 650SC    Honda Nighthawk
1982 900F       Honda SuperSport
1986 FJ1200    Yamaha
2004 GS500F   Suzuki
2003 ZRX 1200R (Green, of course) kept the GS

duma

oooh, thats some new stuff for me to learn hehee.. thank you very much

JetSwing

My hunch was right...Pandy is the biggest Post Whore!

duma

i read that article u gave me like weeks ago, and now i just finish reading it again.  I still dont know what he means by "run it hard."  and do you have to buy the dyno?

pantablo

running it hard means running it near redline for a specified period of time, then backing it down and doing that repeatedly. That link, if its the one I think it is, has very specific way to run the rpms, then change the oil, then run the rpms, then change the oil. Since you're new to biking and this will likely not be your last bike just follow the manufacturers recommendations.

What 'running it hard" will do to the motor is break it in tighter (piston ring seals mostly) so that it produces incrementally more hp. Good for race motors, not so important for a first bike with 40hp... :cheers:


When I bought my 600rr I was surprised to read in the Owners Manual that break in consisted of not doing full throttle starts for the first 600 miles... :thumb:  So I rode it as hard as I do now.
Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

duma

Please help me on this, please.  The quote below is taken out from the given break in website.  And below the quote will be my questions and such...it's long, but please help me out.

"On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears ! "


so i should ride it hard huh? having read the site's article again, i think i should use this method since i dont have the dyno.  can yall help me and tell me if what i say here is what the site means on the 2nd method (On The Street method) of breaking in?  So the 2nd method says to rev it high/run it hard on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.  the site says: "Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph.  The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration."  Does this mean that i dont have to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration/deceleration, but instead i can just run it 65+mph on the freeway?

pantablo

no. if you are going to follow that break-in you need to be sure that you load and unload the engine (thereby loading and unloading the piston rings and getting a better seal [theoretically].

When they say you wont be able to do full throttle runs in 2nd ...blah, blah,blah they are referring to sportbikes (my first gear tops out at 75mph and 2nd tops out at 105mph, for example).

the freeway is the worse place to do this method because you need to do FULL throttle and then COME OFF throttle, so you should be slowing from 65 quite a bit. The worst thing you can do, whichever way you break a motor in, is to run it at a constant rpm for any length of time, like riding a freeway.

Hit a back road soemwhere, one that has lots of straights to open it up. Make sure you not only do the rpm portion of the break-in but that you also have enough oil and oil filters to do the multiple oil changes required-this is ESSENTIAL.

Approximate as close as you can multiple full throttle runs in the first few gears, getting the bike right up to 11k rpm each time then backing down per their directions. Full throttle means FULL throttle, pinned at the throttle stop. The engine will sound like its about to blow up. It wont. It will also feel  much more powerful above 6k than you might be used to.

That brings up another issue. isnt this your first bike? if so, you are in no position (experience-wise) to do the necessary runs.
Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

duma

yea, it's my first bike and isnt the gs500F considered a sportbike because when i went to the suzuki website, it is listed under the sportbike section (all the way at the end of the list).  i just want to make sure i break in the bike well... so i should make a full throttle in 2nd gear to about 11k and release it all the way, then 3rd gear to about 11k and release it all the way, then 4th gear to about 11k and release it all the way?  Does this mean when i release the throttle i need to down shift too because if not the bike will stall?  If lets say the answer to this question already answered... how many times do i have to do this FULL then RELEASE?

pantablo

I dont know how many times you do it. the link should have very specific directions in that regard. I think it was every 20 miles you do one whole every gear procedure or something-dont quote me, read the link carefully.

The GS is not a sportbike. Its a good first bike and a good commuter. Now that they've added fairings more will consider it a sportbike but the performance isnt there. maybe putting it in the sportbike section was a marketing gimmick.

When you do the procedure and take it to 11k rpm just roll off the throttle completely and let the bike slow down on its own, in gear to probably 4k then ride it up to next gear and shift around 7 then FULL THROTTLE....oughtta be fun but you really arent qualified to do that.

Seriously. I wouldnt worry about this type of break in for the motor. I strongly suggest you do the recommended suzuki method. I mean really, think about it...you'd do the racing break-in for a bike that has 37hp at the wheel. You dont need that last 2% of power...Just ride it normal. Since this is your bike you should be riding it easily anyway so the standard breakin is probably better.

Trust me, you'll be selling it in a year and buying a real sportbike if that was your intention. The gs is a great bike for starting out on.
Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

Jace009

Quote from: bikenutDuma,

The bike makes very little power at break in rpms.  Don't get dissapointed.  From 6 grand to redline, the power doubles.


Is t hat all??? :o  Feels like it tripples about 7k then hit the next gear at 8.5-9k and it drops right back down to 6k [bottom of the power curve] as the throttle is twisted more and more the butt inches back and the grip intensfies :thumb: --don't get carried away--

cucamonga

My suggestion is to break it in under factory specs. It's really not worth it to break it in hard. Not only do you void the warranty, but the horsepower gained is so neglible. The chances of having your engine needing a rebuild are that much greater if done incorrectly - just ask the owner of Burbank Kawasaki... he'll tell you some stories...
2005 SVS650

duma

beside the fact that i have to ride it under 5000 rpm, is there a certain amount of mph i should ride it too?  For an example, 65mph and under?  because when i went on 6th gear on the freeway, there was no way i could keep the rpm under 5000 without going over 65 mph.

MarkusN

You answered that one yourself. You can't go as high speed as you like if you have to keep her under 5000 RPM.

BTW, I can follow Pantablo's argumentation about you not needing maximum HP. However, they also claim that you get longer engine life and more mileage out of this method. Just look at the pictures they have of pistons broken in the traditional way and those broken in hard. A tight seal between piston an cylinder is A Good Thing (TM), no matter how much power you demand from the engine.

Severe disclaimer however: If you don't have the skill to ride her under full acceleration, this method is not for you. Period. Get an experieced rider to do it for you, if you want to test the claims.

duma

just 1 thing that i wanna make sure of.  if i do it the hard way, how many times do i have to do the full throttle for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th?  i mean i have to rest 15 - 20 mins in between b4 i start a new gear, but do i have to do this all the time for the first 500 miles?  that would take forever isnt it?  and wut happened when i do full throttle?  does the rpm go pass the red line?

duma

oh crap, this running hard method only works for the first 20 miles of the bike?  oh mannnnnnnnnn i have run the bike to 170 miles now!  god i hate myself.

MarkusN

Quote from: dumagod i hate myself.
Don't. It's not worth it. After all, thousands of GSses run to the satisfaction of their owners, having been broken in the traditional way.

duma

i think i still messed up my bike though because i've been riding it at 6000 rpm on the freeway for these miles....ive been doing it for about 150 miles already, i think i need to stop b4 i actually ruin it for real?

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