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Xcel-plus is it snake oil or the real deal ?

Started by Aussie GS, December 28, 2004, 01:07:38 AM

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Aussie GS

Found a web sight for this stuff,sounds terrific if it works. It's not avaliable here in Australia as yet but since it's made in the USA I hoped some of you's guys and galls might know something about it. Hope you can enlighten me on this subject  :thumb:

John Bates

Here is their "claim to fame":

"The fact that it reduces engine wear --- that it does attach to metal parts has been verified by tests conducted at the Franklin Institute, the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station, and by the La Tourneau College in Texas. The FAA has approved the product for use in aircraft and another product for small engines (motorcycles , lawn mowers , and so on) has also been favorable tested.

Isn't this what ordinary motor oil does?

"Perhaps most dramatic, the Automotive Services Councils for Pennsylvania, Inc. performed a torture - test with excellent results. Three cars, with between 75,000 and 129,000 miles on them, were treated. Six months later, the oil was drained from each vehicle, and the cars were driven, without oil plugs, for about a half hour. The water temperature never rose, and the engines sustained no apparent damage."

The unanswered question is.......... how would identical cars under the same conditions but without their miracle additive perform?  Probably the same but who is going to sacrifice three cars to proove it?

----------------------------------------------------
Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.  (Joerg)
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2002 Harley Sportster XLH883 with V&H Straight Shots
Prior owner of 1992 GS500E stock
Fairfield County, OH
USA

Blueknyt

Quotewithout oil plugs, for about a half hour. The water temperature never rose, and the engines sustained no apparent damage."


I gotta wonder what they chose, non hydraulic lifters, something known for tight rod and main clearences.

Frankly that had to have been one noisey engine while running, sounded like a bunch of leprecons with metal shoes tapdancing under the valve covers and thier dancing elephants backing them up in crankcase
Accelerate like your being chased, Corner like you mean it, Brake as if you life depends on it.
Ride Hard...or go home.

Its you Vs the pavement.....who wins today?

Lars

The water temp. never rose because it was boiling all the time  :P

Besides lubricating, oil also removes a lot of heat from engine parts. I also don't believe the claim that the engines sustained no apparent damage. If you run it without oil, the bearings will be damaged. And if that stuff prevents it, why don't the bearing munifacturers put a coating of it on their bearings rightaway, or why doesn't an oil manufacturer put it in their automotive oils as a standard?

I think it would be better to invest in some quality oil than to buy that stuff. Actually, the stuff could harm your engine if it uses teflon (PTFE) It sticks to metal parts, so it also sticks to the inside of oil galleries, tubes and jets. It will clog the oil system with a thick white coating.

TheGoodGuy

funny i thought "pro long" used the same routine of drain oil and run car for period of time. Or was it "Z max" or whatever it was called which had something called "linkasite" or whatever.

The thing is that prolong i think worked on my ole hyundai. Which was kinda bone dry on the dipstick. The water temp kept going up and down but it got me to a safer area before she died.. she still ran after that but i had a nice leaks going everywhere.

I havent put any sort of oil addititve in my focus, i want to keep her running.. maybe after 100K i might put something if i feel it warrents it.
'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

Eisenfaust

To my understanding those additives contain particles of teflon. I dont really feel like putting particles of anything, no matter how small, in my engine... especially one as highly stressed as a motorcycle engine.

Aussie GS

Xcel-plus apparently does'nt have teflon in it,in fact they go to great length to explain how useless teflon additives are in a motor,they also seem to be the only ones that are open about there testing and how did the test,s still sound's too good to be true but if it is as good as it claims it could be a real asset  :dunno:

Blueknyt

Accelerate like your being chased, Corner like you mean it, Brake as if you life depends on it.
Ride Hard...or go home.

Its you Vs the pavement.....who wins today?

Michael

"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin

Lars

Quote from: MichaelBut what about the clutch?  :dunno:

Good point, maybe it gets as slippery as all the metal parts  :roll:  :dunno:  ;)

Blueknyt

Motor up was used in a bike, but it was a harley, those dont use wet clutches.   Prolong sposivly treats the metals, and can be used with ANY oil. by that thinking, clutch plates shouldnt be effected, but!........
Accelerate like your being chased, Corner like you mean it, Brake as if you life depends on it.
Ride Hard...or go home.

Its you Vs the pavement.....who wins today?

Michael

Quote from: BlueknytProlong sposivly treats the metals, and can be used with ANY oil.
Yes, I wasn't sure whether the friction plates would be affected, but it did worry me that the metal plates would be more slippery so even if the friction plates were OK they still wouldn't grip well to the metal plates.  I don't know the answer, so I'll steer away from the stuff.  I'm not convinced my bike needs it anyway.  :dunno:
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin

Aussie GS

I started this thread in hope someone had first hand experiance with Xcelplus but seems not, reason I'm interested is  20 years ago I used the pruduct then under the name Tuff coat 2, marketed by slick-50. I used it on my GSX 400,the Nissan BLUEBIRD and my Torana,The GSX 400 did seem to pur contentadly after I used it, seemed smoother and less laboured but of course that could be my imagnation.I had 46000 km on it when I traded it in for a XJ 650 it was still running every bit as good if not better than the day I bought it new,never used a drop of oil started first time every time and never needed choke,hated choke actully,got very contacerous if you used it. The bluebird was 16 years old, had done 360 000 km and was also running sweet  not useing a drop of oil  When a car came threw a red light and sent it to the car after life,otherwise I'm confident it would still be going fine and this is in spite of the poor girl being boiled 3 times {oop's  :oops:  } one of the times where it did a head gasket, dumping the radiator coolant into the oil and the wife drove it the 70 km half way to work {when she first thought the car sounded funny} and home again after work.The head was plained as a precation that was all,piston, rings, valves,in fact all engine parts were all fine.This was at the 300 000 km mark,we did another 60 000km before the red light demise so any damage would have well and truely shown up by then.Right till the end it still ran like new no oil burning,same fuel milage as when new,never  had to replaced any engine parts except  normal consumables and that 1 head gasket in the whole 16 years . So was the great relability due to Tuff coat 2 ? no way of ever knowing is there? but for me there's that chance it might be as good as it say's and that makes it worth a try. Out of interest all the vehicles I used Tuff coat 2/ slick 50 on all had a great run except for 1 bike but it was stuffed already before I treated it,still it didnt get any worse. Haveing such a good run with it naturally I continued to use Slick-50 after the 'Tuff coat 2' was dropped from the name,in that time I havent had the good result's  of previous which made me wonder was it all my imagination that the treated engines had seem to preform and feel better after treating,a couple even started burning oil which convinced me it really was just luck in those first vehicles, I assumed slick-50  was the same thing as the original slick-50 tuff coat 2, apparently not acorrding to Xcelplus which is worth a read to anyone interested. Sorry I'm not clever enough to know how all you guy's put the shortcuts on here,maybe someone could do that   :thumb:

Aussie GS

:roll: By the way how easy is it to get hold of in the States,I cant get it here in Australia and was thinking maybe someone there could post me a package, maybe a Factory-pro jet kit,a Uni airfilter,some case savers,possibly some progressive springs,a fork brace,hell maybe I'd better hire a shipping container, sure do envy the range and prices you have over there  :cheers:

The Buddha

Quote from: Aussie GS:roll: By the way how easy is it to get hold of in the States,I cant get it here in Australia and was thinking maybe someone there could post me a package, maybe a Factory-pro jet kit,a Uni airfilter,some case savers,possibly some progressive springs,a fork brace,hell maybe I'd better hire a shipping container, sure do envy the range and prices you have over there  :cheers:

Ok some of this stuff is made by yours truly only ...
1. jet kit ... we dont need no steenkin jet kit - tell us what you are running and we'll jet it ...
2. UNI OK ... but that stock paper can be rinsed in gasoline and reused a few times ... same as UNI ... Heck prolly holds up better than UNI ...
3. Fork Brace ... yea have it... made by moi ... 5/8th inch thick (15mm or 16 mm or somthing) and its $40 ...
4. case savers ... yea made by moi again ... but sold out ... but making more ... soon ...
5. progressives ... yea we can get that ...
watch this site ... when i crank out those case savers ... send me some $$ and I'll round up the rest, and send it off ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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