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DIY can is finished, welp sorta..

Started by weaselnoze, December 13, 2004, 06:15:42 PM

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weaselnoze

so i finally got my muffler in the mail today and went right to work.  it all went fine except one problem that i dont think i can live with.  its stayin where it is untill spring at least however. anyway back to the issue.  well just take a look and u'll see what i mean..

see how its rotated inward? well i cant do shaZam! about it by adjusting anthing.  u would thing just twisting the whole muffler and adapter pipe on the stock pipes would do the trick right? wrong.  because of the angle of the adapter pipe, twisting it causes the muffler to hit a bolt on the caliper.  so basically thats as far as i can rotate it.  srinath, and suggestions on how to bend the pipe out a lil so i can rotate it a few degrees?  keep in mind ihave it painted already.  to the second but minor issue.  the clamp taht goes around the muffler doesnt fit right.  its made so the ends are supposed to come about 1/2 and inch from each other.  here is another picture.  


now for the sound/performance.  even tho i didnt rejet, i think there is a difference.  i actually had the front tire come up a few inches several times.  seems more ballsy too.  sound is great. gets a lil quiet at the higher rpms but its ok.  if anyone cares i'll try and get a sound clip up.[/img]

http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

TheGoodGuy

humm wonder if i should now do this mod.. its getting popular.
'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

Dom

FWIW my can rotates inward too...five minute fix for me, I'll just cut it off an reweld it...I'm just too lazy to do it right now...plus it's pretty much cosmetic...the only reason it points down is because if it pointed up it would fill up with rainwater but since the angle isn't that extreme I don't really care...for now...

Dana

It's a little hard to tell from the photo but could the end cap be one hole off?

If the end cap is held on with rivets you could drill them out and rotate the end cap one hole to the left.

And if that doesn't line it up you could just put the end cap where you want it and mark and drill some new holes.

Dana

The Buddha

OK weazelnose ...
You have the head pipe sticking too long ... you should cut right ~2 inches from the weld ... you have a lot more left there ... That makes the can stick to the back more ... the clamp you got around the can is nearly off the inside end of the can ... they should be closer to the middle ... OK more like 1/4-1/3 way up. You slide it forward and rotate it so the flange goes closer to the swingarm ... and the can will rise at a higher angle and go in at a smaller angle ... and your brake banjo hitting will disappear ... as will the snout pointing at the back tire ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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weaselnoze

haha brake banjo, i thought long and hard about that one lol..

http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

The Buddha

Anyway Dom... you too could cut the header and slide the mid pipe up further ... you also have a clamp that's almost sliding off the end of the can ... I always put it a good 2-3 inches up ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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weaselnoze

ok i'll do that first thing tomorrow but what about the clamp. its still not gonna be tight enough considering the ends are about 1" apart..?

http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

The Buddha

Well oddly enough My clamps were all too small ... however you can cut a slice of inner tube and stick it in the contact area making for a clamp that has to now go round a larger diameter ... Or denim out of old jeans .... if no bicycle inner tube ... I sent inner tube wiht all the cans but only CF ones... the Ti didn't get scratched with the clamp ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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weaselnoze

well i bent a lil < shaped thing in the back to make it smaller.  that looks better than denim lol

http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

The Buddha

OK I misunderstood ...
The clamp is small ... OK usual problem ... I sometimes have bolted it to front and back of foot peg bracket ... sandwiching that thing between the ears ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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Dom

If you want the exhaust tip to point straight back, take it from me, the easiest way to do it is to drill out the rivets on the very back and rotate it to your desired angle and pop rivet it back in place...I have tried everything and that is the only surefire way to get it done...remember to shake or vaccuum all the metal bits and rivit ends out of the can or else they will rattle around and drive you nuts.

The Buddha

Well Dom put pics up... I should point out... I had all the things pointing the way they should straight back eyeballed to be straight back ... but close enough ... and somehitng else will be preventing it from getting to that position ... if it doesn't... 70cam's is a good example ... he gotit located the same way I did ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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weaselnoze

well dom i should have listened to u about re-riveting.  now im f#$%d and i dont know what to do next.  i cut another 2 inches off like srinath said.  made sense too. but in reality now my problems are worse.  im still hitting the bolt on the rear caliper. thats no biggie.  now my problem is the brake lever hits the adapter pipe and not just a little.  what now?!

http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

Dom

Rotate it outward and push it back in toward the hanger and tighten up the strap. You might have to press really hard.  What you want once it's strapped down tight is that there is no way it can rotate inward toward the banjo bolt.  If you rotate it outward far enough and strap it down, there IS a point where it won't rotate once it's strapped down, it should feel rock solid.  When I shook mine the only thing that moved was the bike.  It ended up sticking out from the banjo bolt a good inch.

If my fears are correct, once it is strapped down the exhaust tip will still point inward.  At that point it's just easier, as I said, to remove the stainless tip and re-rivit it.  I recommend 3/16" rivits with about a 1/2" of grab...aluminum is what they used but I think pop rivits are available in stainless...if you want to be really fancy.

weaselnoze

i could try rotating it farther away from the brake lever.. the tip will be more outta wack then im sure.  but i could just re-rivet so why not give it a try.  my strap is so bent up tho.

http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

Jasco

Quote from: weaselnozewell dom i should have listened to u about re-riveting.  now im f#$%d and i dont know what to do next.  i cut another 2 inches off like srinath said.  made sense too. but in reality now my problems are worse.  im still hitting the bolt on the rear caliper. thats no biggie.  now my problem is the brake lever hits the adapter pipe and not just a little.  what now?!

Are you sure you read his post right.  he said 2 inches from the weld, not another 2 inches.  Just checking as that may be the problem.

Matt
"No sprinkles. For every sprinkle I find, I shall kill you."  Stewie Griffin

Dom

2" from the weld was the same as me cutting it another 2" because it was 4" before.  I think he had cut his to 4" from the weld too.

The Buddha

Quote from: weaselnozei could try rotating it farther away from the brake lever.. the tip will be more outta wack then im sure.  but i could just re-rivet so why not give it a try.  my strap is so bent up tho.

OK Did mean to leave you hanging but my Timewarner was out till few mins ago ...  :x ...
OK you cut it so 2 inches are out from the weld are you able to slip it on closer to the weld?? ... OK you have the mid pipe hitting the foot peg ... its turned too far up most likely, now if you turned it down and not hit the foot peg ... and fitted the can on it ... your can will fit on correctly but have the snout off toward the tire - is that right???  ... OK Maybe your can's snout is angled wrong at assembly ... I dunno ... That snout pointing direction is just cosmetic and of course riveting it is always an option ... but the rest of it ... fit and hitting nothing and not comming close to banjo etc is important ... Post or send me a pic ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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The Buddha

OK man I got confused between what you said and what the others said ... but now I read what you said more slowly ...
If you believe you cannot get it to work right and somehitng is off in the mid pipe/flange - I really doubt it cos I fit it on the bike and welded it up ... I'll send you a different flange/mid pipe ... now are you sure your header pipe is good and un bent in a earlier crash etc ... if that's the case you might not be able to fit on the thing at all ... Of course you can get a muffler shop to put some extra bends in the thing and get it modified to fit it ... You have had a load of trouble already with it ... I feel so bad ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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