DIY can is finished, welp sorta..

[The Buddha]

OK did some serious eyeballing with 70 cam's photo, my pic from page 25 wof, and yours...
You should take off the can and grip the mid pipe right before the flange and twist it like opening the throttle ... yours is angled too high.
Now that will make the snout point way off to the tire and looks all f%&ked up ... but is it possible that you have the thing bolted on the flange 1 bolt off ... now if you look at my pic on page 25 wof ... links here ...
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avt
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avs
http://www.gstwin.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=member_bikes&id=avr
You'd see that the snout if pointed a shade to the outside ... whihc I believe how I set them all up ... so you'd maybe be 1 bolt hole out ... anyway if not ... your end can is riveted 1 hole off
The can Should not hit anything, mid pipe shouldn't hit stuff ... now the snout being off while its bad ... more cosmetic and yea re rivet it ... or call them again and raise hell again ... but might be a bit SOL if they know you are fitting a GS ... anyway tell them GSXR and tell them you are perfectly doing it and they are messed up ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[weaselnoze]

im about to roll the whole f'ing bike off a cliff.  christ this kinda shaZam! always happens to me.  lemme see if i answer all the questions lol.  

-i dont believe its bolted on the adapter pipe wrong. i did it the only way it looked right.  i will double check tho.

-the mid pipe was cut just like everyone elses. not 2 inch short or 2 inches long.  i after my second cut i have about 1/2 to  5/8 inches from the weld to the new pipe.  

-the can hits the banjo bolt (or whatever u call it).

-the new mid pipe comes right up to the bottom of the brake lever, making it impossible to depress the lever.  nothing is hitting the footpeg braket.  i might add however, in the midst of all this BS i must have knocked the lil retaining ring off the pin that holds the foot peg in because i have no passenger footpeg now. oh well screw it.

so tomorrow this is what i will do:

-look to see if it is one bolt off
-look to see if i can rotate it away from all the obstacles
-smoke another whole pack of cigs while trying to make it work.

[The Buddha]

The brake lever ... and hitting the banjo = bad ... turn it like I said ... is your header in the stock original location ... cos I have seen some that were an inch off ... crash on the right can do that the banjo hit makes me think that is a possibility ... also make sure the head bolts that hold the header to the cylinder are on tight, and its lined up right ... somehting is off on your bike ... and not just the end cap on the can. And patience ... I have a cliff right across the street from my house ... so If I felt like rolling it off a cliff... that cliff would have been filled up 30 times over by now ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[weaselnoze]

i dont really see any signs of the header pipe being bent from a crash, however it could be possible.

[70 Cam Guy]

I took some more pics of my setup.  Sorry about the brightness, it's dark right now.  I took a couple showing the orientation of the can and the clearance it has.  One shows a view from the front angle of how the adapter pipe is fitted.

I hope you get it worked out man.  If you can only get the pipe in the right orientation, you might try doing like another did on my thread by drilling out the rivets, rotating the end cap, drill new holes, and install new rivets.

Good luck man
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/rear.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/front.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/above1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/GS500/above2.jpg

[The Buddha]

i dont really see any signs of the header pipe being bent from a crash, however it could be possible.

OK before you cut the pipe ... remember if the bracket and rubber that makes contact with center stand was right in the middle of the stand's square contact area spot. If the pipe was bent in ... contact will be made close to center line of the bike ... whihc almost certainly explains the banj contact with the can.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Nerobro]

Pointed inwards is a good thing.  It disturbs the air behind the bike less.   It has only been recently that superbike mfg's have picked up on this.  Just a few years ago all the exhausts poitned back, now the tips are rotated to dump exhaust directly into the low pressure aera behind the bike.

[weaselnoze]

well another day.  good and bad.  after much fanagling i got the orentation of the adapter pipe to fit correctly.  with the brake lever depressed fully, it comes to about 1/4'' maybe less, from hitting the pipe. im satisfied with that.  after i got the orentation correct, for some reason its not hitting the banjo anymore (shh i think its some kinda supernatural miracle :mrgreen: ).  instead its about 4-5'' away! wtf?!  well i played with it some more and got it to about an inch from that bolt.  yay.  all is good.  now all i have to do is rerivet the end cap (it is now almost 90 degrees off towards the tire).  dom, did u remove and reglue the wileyco sticker?  cause it looks like urs is where its designed to be.    now to the bad part of my day.  in addition to taking a sledge hammer blow to my knee at work, the clutch cable adjuster is causing me more problems. its definately time for me to replace it.  it moves around so much that everytime i shift, the friction zone is totally different.   it goes from having so much slack that the clutch isnt fully engaged when lever is pulled all the way, to still being engaged when the lever is released.  when its in the latter position, around 6K rpms, the clutch slips so bad taht i dont acclerate after 6K.  basically im killing the clutch.  shaZam!. im done for today.


oh and at the gas station today i dropped the bike on the exhaust side.  i was so pissed, i turned it off and walked away and smoked a cig. then came back and picked it up.  luckly the footpeg kept the brand new can from scraping the ground.  no damage.

[adamwade]

Before you go taking the cap off the end of the can and re-riveting it, see if you can unbolt the can from the flange and rotate it one bolt hole.

[weaselnoze]

tryed it. it looks most normal the way i have it bolted now.

[Dom]

Regarding the sticker placement:  The carbon fiber on my can is just a sleeve that slides over the aluminum tube that actually gives the can some strength. So on my can I could just turn the CF sleeve so that the sticker pointed in the direction I wanted it to.  If I get tired being a mobile WileyCo billoard I can just loosen the strap and spin the CF sleeve toward the wheel.  

Maybe the stainless steel is the same but just might take some coaxing or you might have to remove both ends.  Your SS sleve might also be epoxied to the aluminum inner tube so it doesnt rattle...OR, the entire can might be made of SS.  :dunno:

Have you bought the pop rivets yet?  I saw some in stainless today at the local Ma & Pa hardware store and they wanted 30 cents a piece.  I didn't bother... aluminum is lighter and I wanted to save myself the weight of the extra 5 grams.  

[The Buddha]

OK man atleast new crap is ruining your day ... glad the pipe turned out better today ... that story of yours made me want to have a cig... and I have never smoked in my life  
Now ...The can and clamp etc can be shoved a bit ... quite a bit by hand into the location it should be ... dont worry about hurting it ... I have had to wrestle them into place .... Hold the mid pipe with right hand and put my left shoulder under the end cap and shove up into where I want it ... that's how I sprained my neck too ... not trying tantric sex position like my welder claims ...   ...
Anyway put up a pic ... and that sticker ... atleast on some of the ones I got they were 1/2 off or fully off ... they aren't going to stay on too long I believe ... unless the heat hardens the glue ... the sticker can be pried off by finger nails ... OK OK dont break them trying ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[weaselnoze]

haha man u make me laugh! any ideas on an adhesive to make sure it stays on the stainless?  and dom i havent bought the rivets yet.  im gonna do that whole thing some other day..

[Dom]

I just asked because I was wondering if you had drilled out the rivits yet(  I'm curious to hear what the inside of your can looks like)

[70 Cam Guy]

What if you drill the rivets on the front/threaded side of the can?  That way the label and outlet pipe stay oriented the same way?

[The Buddha]

haha man u make me laugh! any ideas on an adhesive to make sure it stays on the stainless?  and dom i havent bought the rivets yet.  im gonna do that whole thing some other day..

Emblem tape is what they used ... wonder if superglue will work any better ... or that 2 part spray hardener that body shops use to re affix the decals that stand up off the body ... Not a clue ... I have been pressing it back on ... Seems to stay better with pressure and making sure the air if out under it etc...
Cool.
Srinath.

[weaselnoze]

What if you drill the rivets on the front/threaded side of the can?  That way the label and outlet pipe stay oriented the same way?

actually i was considering doing that.  just as easy. only thing is, will the new rivets hold just as good? it wouldnt matter on the cap end as much as the end w/ all the weight on it

[The Buddha]

Pry off the sticker ... and re rivet the end cap ... BTW dont see why your rivets aren't as good as the factory ones ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[weaselnoze]

well wait.  i never said they arent as good, i havent a clue.  and why would u rotate the end cap as opposed to the other side.  then i wouldnt have to deal w/ the sticker.  just curious as to why u say the end cap..

[The Buddha]

Oh well no idea ... but the can can stay on the bike if you do the end cap ... no need to go through that whole mess again ... But I also assume the sticker is easy to get off.
Cool.
Srinath.