quick help needed; valve cover related

[Eisenfaust]

i need quick instructions on how to disconnect the choke and throttle cables from the carburators of my GS. I'm trying to adjust the valves and cant get the valve cover off because of cable clearence issues.

Also, after removing my contact cover I found that I can not remove my clutch case cover until i remove te roater and contacts but I cant figure out a safe way to do that.  I have a manual on order but would perfer not to wait until it arrives to wait to finish my repairs.  If you guys could help explain how to remove these items i would appreciate it.  [/quote]

[MarkusN]

[Dom]

Remove the tank.

Remove the choke cable by pulling it out of the carb a little bit, then fishing the crimped part out...you'll see what I mean.

The throttle is a little trickier...I think you'll need a 10mm wrench, maybe a 13mm, I forget...anyway, unscrew the bottom nut all the way down until it is all the way off the threaded part.  VERY IMPORTANT: remember how much thread was on there so when you reassemble it your throttle won't be too tight or loose.  Turn the top nut up as high as possible.  Remove the cable...it might be a little tricky and hard to do the first few times.  A pair of pliers and an awl are always helpful for this...also removing the carbs helps...  I pull the cable out with the pliers and push it out of the thingy with an awl.

Hope this helps.  Let us know how goes it.

[davipu]

when I do it I just take the zip tie off that holds them to the frame crossmember, and use a piece of wire to hold them out of the way.

[Kerry]

The following instructions are for pre-'01 bikes.  Both the choke and throttle cable arrangements are different on the later models.

CHOKE CABLE



1) Make sure the choke lever is OFF (pushed FORWARD).

2) Looking at the carbs from the front, follow the cable down to the final bend, where there is an outer metal casing around the cable sheath.

3) Grab the curved metal casing with your right hand and pull it so that the return spring is compressed and the casing is freed from the "cave" it was sitting in.

4) As the end of the casing clears the lip of the "cave", slip the inner cable through the slit on the front of that "cave".  Now you're almost there.

5) See the exposed part of the inner cable?  Push down on the middle of the exposed part until the very end of the cable is right BELOW the ball on the end.  Now push the ball end forward and pop it out of its enclosure.



THROTTLE CABLE

This one is actually more tricky than the choke cable.  (Sorry, no good picture.  Yet.   )

1) Find the threaded fitting at the carb end of the cable sheath.  There are two nuts on those threads.  The lower one is the "captive" nut and the upper on is the lock nut.

2) Loosen the upper (lock) nut.  It has to move up several threads - so that you can drop the whole threaded fitting far enough to free the captive nut from its recess.  If there is not enough adjustability in the upper nut you will have to turn the adjuster on the upper end of the threaded fitting until there IS enough adjustability.

3) Spin the once-captive nut all the way off the end of the threaded fitting.

4) From this point on it works much like the choke cable: Pull the cable housing up until the threaded fitting clears the part it was resting on.  Drop the cable down to provide slack along the exposed inner cable.  Line up the cable at the very end so that the ball end can be pushed out of its housing.


Reassembly for both cables is the reverse of the disassembly process.  Be patient - they are both confusing the first time around!

The throttle cable is a special case, because it should be adjusted so that the throttle stop bottoms out on the top of the idle adjust screw when the throttle is fully released AND there is the slightest bit of play in the throttle grip in this released position.

[Eisenfaust]

Sorry for the poor spelling and grammar and whatnot in my original post, it was kind curt, and I was dictating to my GF, as my hands were entirely too greasy to be typing.

Anyway, I got my valve cover off no problem. I also got my contact rotor off. However, I cant get my bloody clutch cover off, because the backing plate of the rotor (the big, gold steel thing that the pickups mount to) wont come off, and theres a bolt behind it holding the clutch cover on. I've just about stripped the head of the one stubborn  screw trying to get it off. It seems almost as if its rusted in place.

I have a solution, however. The bolt I need to remove is ALMOST clear of the contact plate... theres just al ittle corner of metal there. I think I can grind it away with my dremel with no ill effects, and just leave the plate in place, remove the bolt.. and the cover.

The bolt in question is the left-hand #4 bolt in the bottom left of this picture.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0027/crankcase_cover/crankcase_cover.jpg

Anyway, you guys think that will be ok? I cant see any side effects from it, and i know people modify these plates to create do-it-yourself ignition advancers.

Off to bed now... adjusted my valves, changed my fromt brakes, got most of the way through that clutch cover operation... not bad for an evenings work. Feel kind of sick though, still getting over the flu      

[davipu]

did you try to grab the whole screw head in a pair of vice grips and then try to tap it out with a happer on the side of the vice grips?  you're either going to get the screw out or tear the head of it off, either way the plate comes off.

[MarkusN]

I cant get my bloody clutch cover off, because the backing plate of the rotor (the big, gold steel thing that the pickups mount to) wont come off, and theres a bolt behind it holding the clutch cover on. I've just about stripped the head of the one stubborn  screw trying to get it off. It seems almost as if its rusted in place.

And again the hint is "impact driver". The tool no motorcycle mechanic should be without. It combines solid purchase of the driver bit in them freaking Phillips heads with a good rap on the screw, which will serve to knock the stuck thread loose. If you don't have one, get one. Best investment in tooling I ever made.

[se7enty7]

I cant get my bloody clutch cover off, because the backing plate of the rotor (the big, gold steel thing that the pickups mount to) wont come off, and theres a bolt behind it holding the clutch cover on. I've just about stripped the head of the one stubborn  screw trying to get it off. It seems almost as if its rusted in place.

And again the hint is "impact driver". The tool no motorcycle mechanic should be without. It combines solid purchase of the driver bit in them freaking Phillips heads with a good rap on the screw, which will serve to knock the stuck thread loose. If you don't have one, get one. Best investment in tooling I ever made.

agreed. harbor freight is your friend, or $20 at sears

[davipu]

6 at autozone

[Eisenfaust]

Hmm. Impact driver. Those always kinda scared me. Heh. I think its time to pay a visit to harbor freight. Same goes for the vice grips... I dont actually own a pair. Lame, I know. -_- My tool collection is going though a major expansion this christmas, though.