Main oil seal

[gerharddvs]

[starwalt]

That area of my project is exposed but not disassembled...yet. This may be a good reason to loosen the chain and pull the sprocket to take a look. The manual is not very clear because the case is not shown in the Clymer drawing for the gear train.

BUT I believe that removal of the shaft is required because the next couple of pages show the entire gear train with oil seals, spacers, etc. as one unit. If you have the Clymer manual, page 177 figure 125 shows the drive shaft dropping into the case split. Not a good sign for a quick fix.

Also the Haynes manual on page 2.40, figure 23.8c shows the output shaft with the case split. Again, not a good sign.

If the leak is very slow, perhaps some type of wick  or cloth could control the mess until a serious tear down is required?

[Gisser]

I do not think they would use a seal there that would require splitting the cases to replace.  The only issue I could imagine would be that the rubber coating on the OD might make it a tight fit to install.  Order the seal at the dealership and while there ask the technician/mechanic about it.  

[starwalt]

You'd think with a name like "outer seal" it would be replaceable without getting into the case. I certainly hope so for his and all our sakes!

[gerharddvs]

[starwalt]

For the sake of those who have not seen what Gerhard is asking about:
This photo (poor focus - sorry!) shows the outer seal of the output shaft. It also shows the smaller seal for the clutch push rod.

Gerhard, the drawings in either manual do not show a lip or raised edge on the outer seal. This is good news. If I remember correctly, you changed the oil seal for the clutch rod. With that, it would seem the same method should work with the output shaft outer seal.

I agreee with asking a mechanic if one is available. You are about to contribute valuable knowledge to the group if you do this

[Gisser]

It only leaks when there is oil pressure cause the bottom of the casing is wet after a drive but it hardly leaks in the garage (about one drop a night)

Are you sure that drip isn't from the gear shift shaft?  Common problem to the GStwins; crummy seal used there. :x    

As for that seal behind the countershaft sprocket, why not just go ahead and replace the outer?   You got nothing to lose except the time that it takes you.  :dunno:     If that don't get it done then go back and change 'em both...inner seal, too.  Anything's better than splitting the cases to replace a lousy seal.

[sledge]

I have replaced this item, its a standard design metric lip-seal but I cannot remember the size. The hard part is getting the old one out of situ without damage to the casing. The trick is this, screw 2 self tapping screws into the seal, one at 12 and one at 6 oclock. Screw them into the seal midway between the inner and outer diameters. Dont go too far in as you might damage the bearing behind. Then using 2 pairs of pliers grip each screw and  carefully jiggle the seal it out. When you do get it out take the seal to a Bearing supplier and get one for a fraction of the cost of a OE item.

[gerharddvs]

It only leaks when there is oil pressure cause the bottom of the casing is wet after a drive but it hardly leaks in the garage (about one drop a night)

Are you sure that drip isn't from the gear shift shaft?  Common problem to the GStwins; crummy seal used there. :x    

As for that seal behind the countershaft sprocket, why not just go ahead and replace the outer?   You got nothing to lose except the time that it takes you.  :dunno:     If that don't get it done then go back and change 'em both...inner seal, too.  Anything's better than splitting the cases to replace a lousy seal.

I've already done that seal. It's the clutch pushrod and this one I want to do know.

[gerharddvs]

I have replaced this item, its a standard design metric lip-seal but I cannot remember the size. The hard part is getting the old one out of situ without damage to the casing. The trick is this, screw 2 self tapping screws into the seal, one at 12 and one at 6 oclock. Screw them into the seal midway between the inner and outer diameters. Dont go too far in as you might damage the bearing behind. Then using 2 pairs of pliers grip each screw and  carefully jiggle the seal it out. When you do get it out take the seal to a Bearing supplier and get one for a fraction of the cost of a OE item.

Thanks, but I still have one queation unanswerd. Do you have to replace the inner seal or can you get away with just doing the outer ? What did you do ?

[starwalt]

Hooray!!!  

If you have not opened the seal package, you should not have a problem. Here in the USA, some states have a set time to allow returns of merchandise regardless of the reason if in original condition. The worst case would be if your dealer had to order the item.  He may only give you shop credit or exchange for something else in the store.

Regardless, congratulations! I did not know there was an O-ring there. You have contributed to all our knowledge.

Thank you!