News:

Protect your dainty digits. Get a good pair of riding gloves cheap Right Here

Main Menu

Clunky transmission.

Started by TOMIMOTO, March 27, 2005, 09:22:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

TOMIMOTO

Are our bikes usually known for having clunky transmissions. It seems I have to really hit the shifter to get it into gear sollid. I know it doesn't have synchros but I think it would be a little easier and smoother. I miss shifts all the time under hard acceleration. Like today for example I was hauling ass down a big straight and I tried shifting into 4th. I shifted up and released the clutch and I was redlining. I tried shifting up to 4th again. Same thing. Then I shifted again and did it slower and really kicked up with the shifter and it went. Does it just not engage properly because the engine is under a heavy load or do our bikes usually do this? It does it in any gear under hard acceleration. My bike shouldn't be like this unless our bikes are just made this way. I only have 2600 miles on it. Durring the braeak in and still now I have trouble going from neutral to first or vice versa. Every so often I also get a false neutral usually in between 2nd and 3rd. I think our bikes just have poopy transmissions.

Also what is goats syndrome? I hope these arent signs of it. My baby is still new. Well if it is I have a 4 year warranty so hopefully it would be covered. I'm sure this isn't though.  :mrgreen:

PS. The catch zone is right in the center of the clutch and when I shift I pull the clutch all the way to the bar anyways.

2nd Gen 2005 Honda CBR600RR
Yoshi CF Slip-On / Comp Werkes FE
Rear Seat Cowl / Removed Rear Pegs
Mad Doc Signals / PUIG DB Screen

weaselnoze


http://weaselnoze.matrixdancer.com/

RIP RICH! We'll miss you buddy!

The Buddha

Goats syndrome (GS for short  :lol: ) is when the rotor magnet clobbers the alternator coil and disintegrates both resulting in a hail of metal and lacquer inside your motor cases ...
Variation #2 ... Starwalts disease ... which is a fragment of that magnet ending up in the starter clutch and locks it in the engaged position and that takes the starter for the ride of its life ... Typically starters turn the motor over at ~ 250-300 rpm or so ... You have 6K revs your starter is spinning at 20 times its design speed ... can you say starter soup ... Look at Starwalts avatar ... that was his starter ...
Variation #3 - Srinaths syndrome ... where the starter clutch is bad from age, and he ignores it, and the clunk noise it makes as it engages is ignored for many moons and the resulting vibrations and yes the thing would feel like a sledge hammer whacking the case from inside out ... causes the rotor to shatter and eat the alternator and itself ...
Variation #4 - se7enty7 syndrome - The case is cracked in a fall ... and fixed with JB weld ... and that makes the alternator coil sit a little crooked and it clobbers the rotor magnet as the rotor spins ...
But these are lesser known variations of Goats syndrome ... The fix is usually the same ... open and swap everything out ...
Cool.
Srinath.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

TOMIMOTO

Ok so that's what Goats in. It still doesn't answer my main question. hehe

2nd Gen 2005 Honda CBR600RR
Yoshi CF Slip-On / Comp Werkes FE
Rear Seat Cowl / Removed Rear Pegs
Mad Doc Signals / PUIG DB Screen

John Bates

Quote from: TOMIMOTOAre our bikes usually known for having clunky transmissions. It seems I have to really hit the shifter to get it into gear sollid..............................

Your bike is much newer than mine so this may not apply, but anyway:

I had a similar problem.  Just seemed hard to get in gear.  Had to really push or lift hard on the shift lever.  Then after removing and replacing the sprocket cover (for a reason unrelated to the balky shifting) the problem totally disappeared.  I did loosen the clutch cable at the handlebar end to facilitate removal of the sprocket cover. Maybe I inadvertently adjusted the clutch or maybe  I spilled some oil on the clutch mechanism. I don't know. :dunno:
----------------------------------------------------
Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.  (Joerg)
----------------------------------------------------


2002 Harley Sportster XLH883 with V&H Straight Shots
Prior owner of 1992 GS500E stock
Fairfield County, OH
USA

Gisser

Timing is more important when you're hauling ass.  Can't let the RPM's drop too much.  

QuoteI only have 2600 miles on it. Durring the braeak in and still now I have trouble going from neutral to first or vice versa.

:roll:  The break in period is for the rider.  [1] Neutral to 1st--feed in clutch.  [2] First to neutral--turn off the engine.  It's a clutch issue.

Blingmasta

Some parts of that caught my eye. When I'm sitting at a stop, it is a pain to try to get it to shift down from neutral into first, but if I'm moving, it's no problem at all. I'm certainly not having a real problem with it, it's just an inconvienience


1995 GS500E
2001 Yamaha TTR225 - Sold
1994 Suzuki DR125
1995 Dodge Dakota 4X4 V8 on 31" All Terrains.

straightforward

had a similar experience but only when I stopped at a light AND kept the clutch lever pulled (which I think isn't in favor of clutch life anyway)...

with my GS, when that happened, it helped to just briefly release the clutch lever and pulling it again - no prob shifting to 1st whatsoever.
Walter (waving)
red '98 GS500E

milo

@Gisser: actually, I thought the break-in period is for the good of the bike? I don't know myself, since I only ever buy used bikes and cars, but that's the sense I get from browsing around here.

@Tomimoto: I have trouble finding neutral sometimes on my '01 w/ 7500 miles. It's a common complaint -- just one of the GS's quirks. Roll the wheels a bit and it'll slip in.

On the other hand, shifting into the higher gears at speed is always silky-smooth for me. Maybe it's an issue with your clutch cable?
2001 GS500 (no letter!)
Progressive springs; Kat600 shock; 15T front sprocket; Wileyco exhaust w/ Srinath flange; rear fenderectomy; Airbrush hugger; desperately in need of rejetting.

Gisser

Quote@Gisser: actually, I thought the break-in period is for the good of the bike?

Hmm, I suppose some might argue that the faces of the gear teeth lap-in over the miles.  I say there's a break-in period for the riders because it does take some experience to get the hang of shifting these sequential motorcycle transmissions under certain conditions.  

Helps to visualize what's happening inside those engine cases with respect to the most common complaints...  

1] Can't shift into 1st gear from a standstill, engine off.  
This happens when gear dogs are out of alignment.  Roll the back wheel and alignment changes.

2] Difficulty shifting into 1st gear from a standstill, engine idling in neutral.
Clue...big clunk when you can shift?  Means clutch is dragging and 1st gear is spinning too fast to engage.  Actually, 1st-2nd-3rd-and 4th gears all remain spinning in neutral.  Constant mesh .  If you can hit 2nd gear with the clutch in everything comes to a stop and shifting down becomes possible.  Or, you can shut down the engine then shift.  Later, check cable adjustment, check for oil overfill and/or switch to synthetic.

3] Can't shift into neutral from a standstill, engine idling.
Same as above.  Too much static force being exerted for gears to slide freely.  Maybe here's where break-in could make a difference. :roll:

sprint_9

Check your oil, how long has it been since it was changed?

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk