Questions about F2-F3 rearset conversion

[Turkina]

I've got a pair of CBR600 F3 rearsets that I'd like to get on my bike.

So, I did some searching, read some posts, and I've got a couple of questions.

Will the standard shaped Allen bolts bind against the side of the slotted hole?  It looks like a lot more material than just 1/8" that I need to remove from each hole to get it slotted (probably closer to a quarter)

I actually have a complete rear brake system that came with the rearset.  Brake switch, master cylinder, reservoir, and caliper.  I really don't want to hack apart the original GS stuff in order to get this to work.   Any suggestions on getting the cylinder to work with the GS reservoir and caliper?

Pictures would be nice... *tries to upload pictures A & B from camera C into computer D by banging camera against computer*   Will have those soon once I locate a cable

[Frost]

what year CBR600 will work???

I'm looking forward to getting rearsets too...any info would be great...

[Turkina]

Supposedly the F2 and F3 rearsets are of the same design / mounting hole spacing.

1991-1994 CBR F2
1995-1998 CBR F3

[Frost]

so 91-98?...thanks!

[Turkina]

Does this work for now? I the pic off the ebay auction...

[94suzuki500]

To get the honda cylinder to work with the suzuki resivor and caliper, I would imagine that you would need to just unbolt the honda lines and install the suzuki ones.

[octane]

Not sure if the 600 is the same, but I used CBR900RR rearsets on my GS and the master cylinder bolted to the rearset. I didn't even have to bleed 'em, just bolted it on.

[Mk1inCali]

I used the F3 rearsets Pablo has on his page, exactly like the ones pictured above.  I had to grind quite a bit of material away from both the mounting flange and the surrounding supporting metal to not bind with standard Allen head bolts.

I hacked the stock GS master cyl's actuating bolt down to work with the stock CBR rearset, figured when I go to sell it, I'll just pick up a used master cyl. and include both setups or sell whichever one the next owner doesn't want.  I went for a quick test ride, and the brakes locked up from the heat because they were dragging so bad.  Make triple sure you can spin the wheel very freely and that there is free-play between the resting position of the brake lever and when the master cyl actually activates the brakes.

As for the other side, I just use the stock GS shift lever, fits my big feet a lot better than using the CBR linkage, and weighs that much less.

All in all, I'd definitely do it again, makes the bike much better feeling.  Check my yahoo account's pictures pages for rearset install picts.

[Frost]

so CBR900RR will be a easier swap?

[raylarrabee]

Mk1inCali, how much did the rearsets change the peg position?  I'm 6'6" and have been looking for a way to move the peds back/down a bit to accommodate my long legs.

Just wondering if it's worth the effort.

[tdan553527]

I haven't got my rearsets mounted yet, from  a CBR. Just holding them up there, they are about 1" back and 1/2" lower.

[Frost]

which CBR fits better...then 900 or the 600

[octane]

From my experience, I'd say the 900 - but I can't tell you what year. I took my GS rearset to the shop and they let me go through all their rearsets matching holes until I found what I wanted. The ones I got were actually aftermarket CFM Motorsports rearsets for a CBR900RR. I think it was a 1995 model, but don't quote me on that.

[Mk1inCali]

Personally, if I were to do it again, I'd put 900 rearsets on there.  A set from an F3, that swap is definitely do-able.  I agree with tdan, about an inch back and 1/2 inch lower.  It feels a lot sportier now, and with my almost 6'6 frame, it made a definite improvement in long-range comfort.  My knees are more bent now, but with my drag bars, I like it a lot better.

Danny, you want to chime in here if you have a set that would work?  I can't remember if you had a set from an F2/3 that will work or the F4 series.

I've not had a chance to go up to the canyons yet and see what drags first, but I have been far enough over to drag my toe sliders.

You can always sell them here if you don't like the change.  Heck, if you send me a set that you buy, I'll machine them for you if you'd like/are worried about screwing that part up.

[Turkina]

Sooo... today I used the dremel to make the rearsets fit.  There's a bunch of things that need to be done, other than slotting out the holes.

1. Slot holes
2. There is a U-shaped bracket that holds the hose from the brake reservoir.  That will hit the frame when you try and mount the rearset.  I cut it off and smoothed out the area.
3. The bracket that holds the rear brake switch hits the frame.  I cut a couple of mm from the bracket and relocated the hole a bit.
4. The brake light switch... You can use the Suzuki one with a little modifying.  Take the Suzuki switch, the plastic adjusting nut from the Honda, and the spring from the Honda.  Stretch the spring a little, since the Suzuki switch is shorter than the Honda one.  Install and adjust the switch!

Things not done:
1. It looks like I can just stick the Suzuki brake lines onto the Honda (Nissin) master cylinder.  No cutting the bolt on the Suzuki cylinder to make it work! Just need to drain the brake lines and make the change.
2. The notches on the Honda shift lever do not match the Suzuki ones.  Do you think a shift linkage from a GSXR would work?  Or what could I do that would not permanently alter the Suzuki parts?

Impressions: The CBR pegs are angled out slightly.  I should say, the F3 rearsets make the pegs angle towards the rear of the bike.  I wish I could straighten that out a bit.

The pegs put your right foot pretty close to the exhaust.  I really don't want to cook the heel off my boot.  Any suggestions?

Oh yeah... amount of GS parts altered using this mod: Zero   If you get a right rearset with a master cylinder on it...

[Mk1inCali]

Turkina-  There are 4 options to solve that shifter/linkage problem.

1- Hammer the CBR clevis onto the GS shift shaft.  Will it mess up the notches on the GS shift shaft?  Maybe.  Was I willing to split the cases to install a new shift shaft it it did mess them up?  No sir.

2- Use the stock GS shift lever and just get used to the relationship between peg and lever actually fitting your boot.  I'm size 13, so I got used to it really quickly and like it a lot better now.

3- Find a GSXR rubber clevis piece that will fit on the GS shift shaft, and either thread it onto the CBR linkage or jam a whole lot of JB weld down in there, drill it to size, tap/die it to work with whatever size threads your CBR linkage piece has on it.

4- Cut all of the GS shift lever off the actual round part that bolts to the shift shaft, weld that single round piece to the CBR linkage and have a DIY option that won't cost you anything but a stock GS shift lever to revert back to stock.


I chose #2, works just fine.  Ignoreance (another member here) hammered it onto his GS shift shaft, and although I haven't talked to him this spring yet, he hasn't had any problems last time I did talk to him and he rides hard with GP shift pattern.  

GP-shift is do-able with any of the options that use a linkage.  Chimivee (also a member), did #4 because he had a shop that welded it on for him for 5 bucks.  He went with stock shift pattern.

[Turkina]

I got off my butt and switched out the caliper.  Unforunately, the hose from the GS brake fluid reservoir does not go into the Nissin master cylinder.  The GS hose has too large a diameter.  Honda hose is too short, and I'll need to make a little bracket to get the Honda reservoir to fit.  Oh well   Time to look for a fix for that.

I put 2 washers between the rearset and the frame and tweaked the rearsets into a proper alignment.   Things are pretty comfy, except that you need to remind yourself to lift your feet higher to reach the pegs.  Oh, and for me, the reach to the rear brake pedal is kinda awkward.  The pedal is set too low for an easy tilt of the foot, but I'll deal with it.

[octane]

I couldn't find any shifter that matched the GS splines. I cut off my GS shifter, drilled a hole, and bolted a small heim joint in there that screws into a shift link from a R1.

Shifter side:


Brake side: