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poor mans carb jetting

Started by Groggg, May 15, 2005, 07:23:14 AM

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Groggg

Hey all nice to join you.

I was wondering is there anyway to drill out the pilot and main jets to the correct sizes, instead of buying new jets?

one being its sunday, no shops are open and everybody is out riding :) my diags tell me i need to work on the pilot jets.

two is i really dont have the money to buy the jet kit if i wannted to :(

I have a bad bog right at about 1/4 throttle.

i could go buy the correct drill bits i could have my bike up and running :)

The Buddha

We usually dont buy a kit. 40 pilots and 125 mains are what we use ...
Now Drilling out is an option for pilots if ... you can get them out wihtout damage (remember even the slightest damage to the slot they have will make it near impossible to get it off next time ... and you can buy numbered drills (79 or 80) I think ... and you got 40 pilots.
Mains ... OK different story, getting it out is no problem, but holding it and drilling it and to what size (dont know what is 125 but something is) cos the 1/16th is closer to 150 ... so some numbered drill will work ...
I've never done it and Maybe I should have ... I only have like 100 of each lying about ... but I'd not fit it in someone else's carbs ... just for that removal problem ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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cheesy

Quote from: GrogggHey all nice to join you.

I was wondering is there anyway to drill out the pilot and main jets to the correct sizes, instead of buying new jets?

one being its sunday, no shops are open and everybody is out riding :) my diags tell me i need to work on the pilot jets.

two is i really dont have the money to buy the jet kit if i wannted to :(

I have a bad bog right at about 1/4 throttle.

i could go buy the correct drill bits i could have my bike up and running :)

I bet the correct size drill bits are near the cost of the jets...



although I HATE waiting for parts

Groggg

near the cost but the drill bits are avaliable to me now at home depot or the like , and the jets are not available  today . i did the rear signal mod yesterday, plan on doing the diy timing advance today and jet the carbs today if i could.

I just bought a 97 gs500e with 1800 miles on it , as far as i see the bike is real clean. it has a cobra f1r full exhaust on it ...

thanks for the info.. and more info would be greatly appreacated.

cheesy

Quote from: Grogggnear the cost but the drill bits are avaliable to me now at home depot or the like , and the jets are not available  today . i did the rear signal mod yesterday, plan on doing the diy timing advance today and jet the carbs today if i could.

I just bought a 97 gs500e with 1800 miles on it , as far as i see the bike is real clean. it has a cobra f1r full exhaust on it ...

thanks for the info.. and more info would be greatly appreacated.

As much as I hate waiting for stuff... if I were you I'd grease the steering stem bearings, clean the bike, bleed the brakes, change the oil, add a fuel filter... all things you can do today with stuff from an auto parts store.

Tommorow, order jets (127.5 mains, 40 pilots.. check srinath on the mains..), a k&n filter, and also..  by a ignition rotor and send it to bob broussard... much better than the diy method...


There. now you're busy today and will be busy next week when you get your parts. perfect!  :cheers:

Groggg

another thing , am i understanding correctly that the only float adjustment would be when the carb is upside down and the highest point of the float is 14mm from the flat base where the blow meets the carb body?

cheesy

to explain about the main jets...

having a full exhaust changes things up with jetting.  I have a wileyco and a UNI in the airbox, and use 127.5 mains with 40 pilots.  It hiccups a TINY bit JUST off idle but nothing too bad.  It behaves better in warmer weather.

There are a couple of filter options:

1) stock paper in stock airbox
2) uni foam in stock airbox
3) K&N in stock airbox
4) K&N lunchbox that replaces airbox
5) K&N pods that replace airbox

Those are in order of flow IMO

I don't like K&N and won't use them in my car or bike.  They are dirty, and I am meticulous about keeping my engine clean/lubed/whatever.

Groggg

responding to cheesy...

if the V and h rotor advances the timing , and the diy is in fact changing the timing without changing the rotor would you not agree that it is in fact the same thing ? i would think that eitheer way it does accompish the same exact thing .


thanks for all the input.

cheesy

Quote from: Groggganother thing , am i understanding correctly that the only float adjustment would be when the carb is upside down and the highest point of the float is 14mm from the flat base where the blow meets the carb body?

float height is best checked using the "u-tube method"

hook a clear hose up to the drain on the carb bowls.  loosen the screw to allow gas in the tube, and the gas should stop at the gasket level of the carb.

cheesy

Quote from: Grogggresponding to cheesy...

if the V and h rotor advances the timing , and the diy is in fact changing the timing without changing the rotor would you not agree that it is in fact the same thing ? i would think that eitheer way it does accompish the same exact thing .


thanks for all the input.

I'm not sure of the technical difference, but the diy method doesn't change the dwell or duration.. just the timing.  bob b. actually modifies the duration and dwell by repositioning the guide hole and the length of the ignitor finger thing

or something like that.  but there have been numerous discussions that agree that bob b's method is better, plus it's cheap.  less than $10

Groggg

yes i know the float check while the carbs are on but , when the carbs are offf you can look for the 14mm space while doing the main jets and pilot jets

cheesy

Quote from: Grogggyes i know the float check while the carbs are on but , when the carbs are offf you can look for the 14mm space while doing the main jets and pilot jets

yes, but it's difficult to get that perfect..  after doing it, check with the u tube method to ensure they are correct

The Buddha

Quote from: Grogggyes i know the float check while the carbs are on but , when the carbs are offf you can look for the 14mm space while doing the main jets and pilot jets

Some people set it this way ... well they claim to set it that way ... who knows what it is actually set to ... U tube is the only way to see where it is on the bike ... and somehow no one that can do U tube seems to be able to do this  :lol: ... and those that do the measuring and setting seem to not be able to do U tube ... maybe left handed or right handed ... Who knows ... People say they have it at 14mm and what should I do ... and I go ... Duh ... no clue ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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Groggg

Well it seems so far all i have done was add 2 number four washers to the
stock needle jet and my bog/hesitation is gone. I rode her las night and found the bog was as 4-6 K  I automattiaccly when to mod the needle.

It fixed my problem.

Only problem now is that it runs out of gas at 90-100 MPH ....

any other advice I would e greatful...

the vacaum with the tank is fine. I ran it today with the tank open this morning.

Rema1000

It sounds like you've gotten your set-up close to perfect. The top speed of the GS is found in 5th gear, not 6th.  There isn't enough torque in 6th to push the bike forward.  And many people report 105mph as top speed, so even if you run out at 100mph in 5th gear, then you're close, and I wouldn't worry about it.
You cannot escape our master plan!

Jarno

I was just wondering...

I tried my bike out after a valve-job (night-time, empty highway :nono:), and got around to 160km/h (100mph) with 8k, 6th gear.

It didn't even feel like I was pushing the bike, but rather my own limits :o so I let go. If I recall right, the redline is at 11.5k, so there's bound to be some power between the 8k and the red-line. What gives?

Has my thought-to-be-stock-bike been modded to the nth degree or what?

-Jarno
Per aspera ad astra.

Groggg

yeah she is running pretty good, after the needle mod.

i saw about 100 and I also weigh in at 240 lbs.

just need to see weather or not im going to open the carbs to measure the float and change the main jet to see if it stops running out of fuel at 100 or i am thinking the petcocks are restricting the fuel to the carbs.

Altruism111

Quote from: JarnoI was just wondering...

I tried my bike out after a valve-job (night-time, empty highway :nono:), and got around to 160km/h (100mph) with 8k, 6th gear.

It didn't even feel like I was pushing the bike, but rather my own limits :o so I let go. If I recall right, the redline is at 11.5k, so there's bound to be some power between the 8k and the red-line. What gives?

Has my thought-to-be-stock-bike been modded to the nth degree or what?

-Jarno

If you make it to the red line in 6th let me know. This GS has no top end. I think drag will keep you from ever red lining 6th.
________________________________________
Drive it like you stole it!
<~~40 foot drop!!!!
Black 2005 Honda 600RR (New Toy) :-)
Black 2000 GS500<~~SOLD :-(

Altruism111

Hey Hey POST # 100!!!! woo hooo :cheers:
________________________________________
Drive it like you stole it!
<~~40 foot drop!!!!
Black 2005 Honda 600RR (New Toy) :-)
Black 2000 GS500<~~SOLD :-(

Groggg

the carbs running out of fuel ar emy problem right now, 6th does increase rpms but i get the bog before i can get close to redline

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