Part Deux - My Ebay 90 GS rebuild

[starwalt]

My Ebay fixxer upper has moved into a new stage so the original post will coast down the trail. You can get the history of Starwalt's Syndrome with this link and read all about the early phase of this project.

I am more of a restoration nut who enjoys a good mod if it improves a factory weakness.

This new thread starts off with the steering stem from the bike.


Notice the first wider section below the very top, in the foreground, the part with the white light band. That part is machined nicely. The rest of the collar seems broken or chipped off.

Can anyone confirm this as normal or damaged?

The lower bearing seal is damaged for sure, a torn rubber lip. The bearing races are fine with no splits or cracks.

[dgyver]

I looked at the 3 stems (Kat & GS) I have off the bike and they all have the chipped look. The Kats are worse than the GS. I would need to pull the top triple clamps on my bikes to check the other two.

btw...is your stem pressed in and is it oval like the one I have?

[starwalt]

btw...is your stem pressed in and is it oval like the one I have?

I thought about yours when tearing this one down. Mine is just a circle in a circle. Nothing ovoid about it.

I haven't checked to see if it will press out and I probably won't. Sleeping dogs and all that rot.

[dgyver]

If you do not see a weld bead on the bottom then it is pressed in.

[starwalt]

So how naked can a naked bike get? Here the left side cover and rotor covers have been stripped and are ready for filling the cuts before primer.

A closeup of the rotor cover shows some rash to be filled.

This stuff works well enough, especially on a quick rattle can repair job.

Wear the safety gear. You can't see my eye shields here, but I had them on!

I will probably use JB Weld for the cut filler. Pics coming soon enough.

[vfrocket]

Stripeeze is the bomb, the only thing that I have found stronger is the aircraft paint stripper we used in the navy. Be caruful, a little microscopic dropplet can cause you pain on your skin.

VFR

[starwalt]

More grunt work, or restoration efforts depending on your perspective...

I now have a red battery box!

I used PlastiDip to coat it well. The original had some battery acid erosion so much cleaning, sanding, etc. required some tough stuff. Srinath just did one in powder coat. That's plenty tough too, though not flexible.

Another view of the box showing the starter relay mounting ears.

In addition to the battery box, the box mount in the chassis needed work.

This color of silver is actually Aluminum 7515 and is Rust Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel. It is too bright for a match to the 90 chassis color, but it will do for now until a bettter match is found.
The left side engine cover and the rotor cover are finally in primer.

My camera makes the primer look like it has black speckles in it. This could also be an artifact generated by the transfer/editing process or the flash. Primer has lots of solids in it and the next step is some light sanding to smooth it out prior to the first coat of black.

I modified the front fender to make it easier for removal. I fabricated nut plates and RTV'd them on the insides. No more removing the tire to get at the silly nuts under there anymore.

[ktrim]

have you ever tried por-15.  its a coating that goes over rusted or corroded metal and seals it.  works very well and leaves an attractive finish.  it can also be painted.  it's available in multiple colors..  

http://www.prp-porstore.com/POR-15-Steps-For-Use.html

[starwalt]

have you ever tried por-15...

The short answer is "No", not yet.

Now the long answer...The tank on this project has a seeping leak on the left side. I bought a POR-15 kit to seal/repair the leak, but haven't used it yet. Too many little and big things to do before that part of the project.

I did some online research and found that the Kreem vs. POR-15 is actually a decision between two different acids. Kreem uses an HCl prep, and POR-15 uses H3PO4 prep with significant difference in results. The hydrochloric acid rips away the rust, a fact confirmed by Srinath's experiences. According to one website, the phosphoric acid in POR-15 turns the iron oxide (rust) into iron phospate. I cannot confirm this assertion. The phosphoric acid in Naval Jelly does turn rust black. A cheap source of HCl is Muriatic acid from the DIY stores like Lowe's or Home Depot.

[The Buddha]

Powder coat is extremely flexible ... the demo for that is ... one of those dog tags they have for samples ... bend it into a U and bend it back straight ... powdercoat stays on, not cracked or peeled ... I sometimes need to bend or modify stuff after ... so I use paper in the vice and paper under the tool and grip it and rip it ... usually stays on wiht not even tool marks ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[ktrim]

I've used the por 15 for rust repair on cars many time,  it is extremely durable and flexible.  It can also be painted with minimal prep work.   It works very well and looks good when done right.,  If the directions are not followed exactly it looks like crap.

[starwalt]

Powder coat is extremely flexible ... the demo for that is ... one of those dog tags they have for samples ... bend it into a U and bend it back straight ... powdercoat stays on, not cracked or peeled...

I stand corrected!  

Srinath, run into an old kitchen oven anywhere? The Eastwood catalog with powder coat supplies says they make great curing ovens for small parts.  :dunno:

[The Buddha]

We had to move a few years ago when I used the oven in our apt to cook the paint on an exhaust ... that was before I found out that the first heat cycle cooks it plenty well ... I'm trying to not get into doing everything myself ... at $1 per small part its a deal, I can never blast it as good, and probably end up costing me more ... cos powder is in 5 lb packs ... enough to do like 5 gas tanks ... its going to have a lot of wastage ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[starwalt]

I had a great weekend working on the GS! The battery box is in and the wiring harness is mostly connected to the main chassis components.

The next couple of pics are of the nut plate modified fender mounted on the forks. I added  a second OEM fender plate (and have a third if needed) for a stiffer mount and changed the fork hardware to case hardend with locks and washers (taking any more super plate orders Srinath?)


A little closer to the item...


The fender is wicked easy to remove now and if I add the third plate, it installs the same because of the nut plates and the length of the chromed fender screws.

I will make some pics of the electrical work for the next update.

[The Buddha]

I have a few ... 1/2 inch ones ... somewhere ... Get the bike running ... there will be plenty of ways to do mods ... I wont recomend spending any $$ on it wihtout getting it to a good 90 and back ... should shift fine and should pretty much behave ... I am doing the same shaZam! to a 85 maxim right now ... but the first thing I did was get on it and run ~60 miles ... got it into the 100's a couple times and then split it open like a walnut ... and its 3/4 back in 1 piece ... fenders, exhaust, tank etc are left ... just back from powdercoat. Exhaust still with them ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[starwalt]

Ok, time to update this dog and show some of the progress!

I have limited web space so some of the earlier links to photos are red "X". That's fine because I have them on the PC and can relink them later should space become available.

I really tried to avoid taking off the swing arm, but after a little more investigation...
 
I just couldn't stand the thought of not trying to clean this up.

That is what happens when you let battery acid/overflow accumulate on your swing arm. The previous owners really didn't take care of this bike at all. I cleaned the top layer of grease and rust off just to get it to this point. Check your overflow hose to make sure it is not dumping on the bike or it will do this to it. Here's another shot of the back end of the bike showing some rust on the center stand due to battery acid overflow


While overhauling brakes, the idea of setting the (boring) caliper parts off just couldn't be resisted. I am using Dupli-color Engine paint Chrysler Red as a close enough match for the Marble Italian red of 1990.


Speaking of paint, I think I have nailed down the frame colors for all but the 04+ models. They are 0FP - Traditional Silver Metallic, 13L Bright Silver Metallic, and for 1996 17U Gray Metallic.  I gleaned this data from the color codes listed for the various parts and then crossed that to the color charts. I have email to Color-Rite asking if 0FP is available. I plan to either acid clean the swing arm (or use a Naval Jelly), then prime and paint it.

[dgyver]

I think the red will really show off your brakes.

Yeah, swing arms get really nasty. The last one I had to use naval jelly and wire brush it.

I have become partial to the charcoal gray frames, which I am planning on painting my next one.