riser plates fab drawing

[dgyver]

Since I have had several requests.....

Here is a drawing of the riser plates that I made. I used 1/4" thick x 2" wide 6061 aluminum flat bar. When finished, I used an orbital sander with a fine grit paper to give it a brushed look.

The rear pair of holes can be moved but note that if you go up you will have to go back as well. Otherwise with a 1/4" thick plate the bolts for the stock rearsets can hit the frame. The left and right plates are the same.

If you move the pegs back then the distance to your shifter will increase as well. This may a be problem for some.

Riser Plates Image

Riser Plates Drawing

Sorry for the image quality of the drawing since I had to go from AutoCAD to Photoshop.

[ktrim]

can you email me the auto cad drawings?   I have access to a laserjet that works off of autocad.

[dgyver]

what is your email?

[ktrim]

ktrimboli@aol.com

[dgyver]

drawing has been emailed

[kvgs]

Wicked! Can we see a close up pic of them on the bike. I've been thinking of building something similar my self.
Thanks

[dgyver]

I do not have a pic of them installed but I will install them and take a pic.

[dgyver]

There is a problem using stock rearset with these plates. I will need to revise the drawing and move the holes. This is was not a problem with Woodcraft rearsets, which I designed them around.

[dgyver]

Revised the drawing.

The rear holes had to be moved back 1/2" for the upper plate/frame bolt to clear the stock rearset. This was not a problem with the Woodcrafts since they have two tabs for mounting points without the solid bar between them. This additional 1/2" will really increase the shifter to peg relationship.

I also adjusted all the holes in relation to the outline to accomodate the 1/2" rearward relocation to still be able to use 2" flat bar.

I added indexing lines for the holes in case you want to set your own relocation.

I will make another set to mount and take a pic of it.

[ktrim]

hey,   send me the revised drawing when you get it done,  Ill see about having them cut on the flowjet where my dad works,  may be able to make them available for price of matrials.  Dad checked out the drawings and -vs- material.  Said the 6061 aluminum may flex quite a bit due to the shape and mounting. he suggested using 1/4 steel stock. what do you think?  Dads an engineer and has been designing machinesand componants for years,  he was asking questions about the amount of stress on the riser that I could not answer.

[dgyver]

I have been using similar plates on my TLR for 3 years without any problems. They have been used on SV's (aka Nate's Plates) for even longer than that. There is not a lot of stress on them, not much more than your body weight and that is in a vertical axis. There is very little horizontal stress, unless you crash and then bending would be good. Less chance of frame damage then.

Revised drawing has been emailed.

[dgyver]

ktrim....Here is a thought.....I have been designing rearsets for the GS. Similar to Woodcrafts but using standard GSXR type pegs and pedals (brake and shifter). I am going to be cutting the plates by hand (not cnc) out of 1/2" aluminum. Nothing fancy since I have limited tools. Maybe you would be interested in having some of them cut on the flowjet?

Not really sure what a flowjet is but I guess its like a water jet.

[starwalt]

...I am going to be cutting the plates by hand (not cnc) out of 1/2" aluminum. Nothing fancy since I have limited tools...

D, have you ever seen the sellers on eBay that cut to your dimensions? If you have them cut to a very close rectangle, just outside the size of the final piece, then maybe hand tools to final dimensions wouldn't be so much work.

Just an idea.  :dunno:

[GeeP]

You can cut aluminum plate with a carbide-tipped blade in a skilsaw.  It's done all the time when you can't lose the heat treat.  Wear ear plugs, use a sharp blade, and really good eye protection.  Get a nice big 14" bastard cut mill file for the corners.  

Make a jig out of 1/2" steel for your holes.  Weld, or otherwise secure several pieces of 3/16" key material to provide positive location for the finished part.  Use a clamp to secure the part.  Then it only takes one machine setup to drill all the holes.  Just some thoughts...

[ktrim]

dgyver--  If you have drawings,  I can check on costs,  usually its really cheap cause dad wrks there and they use scrap for my stuff.  Dad has the stock rearsets off my bike now.  in his spare time he is working on a set for me (up an inch back an inch)  I have been having problems finding pegs so he can see how they mount. (dont want the gs style mounts, but still want them to fold)  I dont wanna spend what the dealers want.  anyway,  send me some dimensions and I'll see what I can do.  It usually takes a week or so to get my stuff done ( they run it after hours or at lunch time)  but its always top quality when I get it.

[dgyver]

A lot can be fabricated with a couple of band saws, drill presses, sanders, grinders and a dremel. It may be time consuming but it is what I have to use. Doug, you have seen my shop and most of the bigger tools I have. The smaller ones I hide under all the clutter. A lot of machined parts have been made on them over the years. One of the most recent was the caliper hanger for the RGV swingarm.

Stock GSXR pegs should be easy to come by, even if is just the mount i may have a couple extra. Nothing complicated, they need a hole and 2 small slots to keep the peg from rotating. I can get you pics and measurements of the mounting points.

I am making a couple of sets for myself, got two bikes to build and crash spares. Been toying with the idea of making them adjustable, like Harris rearsets. But this is a little more complicated. I have a drawing completed from which I will be making a prototype. Probably going to be making the shift and brake pedals as well.

[starwalt]

... It may be time consuming but it is what I have to use. ... A lot of machined parts have been made on them over the years. One of the most recent was the caliper hanger for the RGV swingarm....

Aye! I wasn't certain if you were thinking about a small production run or not. My 3 wheel project got some blocks cut to exact size way cheaper than my time would have been (and way more accurate than my eyes).

I've seen an article mentioned in one of the Home Machinist magazines about using the drill press as a milling machine. I guess it depends on the ability to move the piece under the cutter and that depends on how good a moving table/vise one has. I've looked a some really cheap, but poor quality, imported vernier vises.

This week I made the second version of my prototype fender nut plates. Using hacksaws and files, the first attempt worked, but I had trouble getting a good square threading of the plates. I enlarged one dimension of the plates to provide more support and then used the drill press to start the tap (chuck it up loose, turn the motor on, then off, and stick it in the hole while spinning down).  I can't remember if your track bikes have a front fender (should look for pictures huh?), but the nut plates eliminate the need to remove the front wheel just to get at the fender nuts (silly design). I used RTV to hold them in after lining everything up and tightening down.

[dgyver]

Yeah, no large production. Just small quantities. If ktrim (or someone else) is willing to make some in larger quantities, this may be a good money maker. Not sure what the demand would be, which would really depend on cost. Aftermarket rearset are way over priced at $200+.

I have a small 2-axis venier table on my lathe that I can mount on a drill press. I have seen others really reasonable, I think it was Grizzly. You have to be really careful if moving horizontal with a Jacobs chuck, since they are designed for parallel pressure not perpendicular. Replacement milling chucks for drill presses are available. I wish I never sold my Laguna multi-tool (like a ShopSmith but better). I had all the stuff for milling. Oh well, needed the money and it took up a lot of room.

My bike does have a fender. It has Katana forks but the fenders mount the same way as the GS. I need to do you mod, great idea!

[ktrim]

it should be no problem to get them made in any quantity. we just need to decide on material and get dad a drawing so he can price it out.  He said the 6061 aluminium you mentioned was a bit expensive and they dont usually have it on hand, they usually use 5052.  He said mild steel would be cheaper, stronger, and the weight difference is not that much due to the size of the part.

[dgyver]

I would not want them out of steel. The extra strength steel would provide could be a problem in a crash. Would rather have the rear set bend before the frame. I have seen frames damaged from rearsets. Weight is an issue to me, plus rusting.

I am not up to speed on the different types of aluminum, 6061 is usually what I have access to.

I will look at the design a little more this week. I need to mock up the set-up to see how it all fits. The shift side is not a problem. The brake side may be since I am planning on using a pedal that pivots on the peg so the length of the rod going into the master cylinder is an issue. The rods on GSXR's are shorter and may fit better. That is not a problem for me since I have a couple but for others it would be since it would need to be swapped. I want to keep the design an easy swap with common replaceable parts.

Here is a link to a pic of the mounting of a GSXR peg that you had mentioned needing. This is of a left/shifter side rearset.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/dgyver/GSwrenching/GSXRpegmount01.jpg
The 2 slots are set at 45 degrees (ccw from vertical) and are 4mm long x 7mm wide x 3mm deep.
The hole is 10mm in diameter.