first maintenance issues

[Slavik]

[Jake D]

If it is running lean, the plugs will look white.  Rich then dark.  You may want to see about getting your valves checked.  There are shims in the head that adjust the valve clearance.  It is supposed to be done every 4000 miles.  If the are out of spec, either too tight or too loose, then it could cause problems.  
Lube your chain often, check its tension.  Check your tire pressure, too.  Get a maintenance manual, Clymers or otherwise, and read it.  
Make sure your oil light never comes on.  If it isn't on, and the bike seems to run fine, then I say enjoy it, be safe, and have fun.

[Slavik]

If it is running lean, the plugs will look white.  Rich then dark.  

Thanks, I'll check.  So neither of these conditions will cause a noticible change in the way the bike operates?

You may want to see about getting your valves checked.  There are shims in the head that adjust the valve clearance.  It is supposed to be done every 4000 miles.  If the are out of spec, either too tight or too loose, then it could cause problems.  

Is it something that I can do on my own?

Lube your chain often, check its tension.  Check your tire pressure, too.  

Will do, Thanks.

Get a maintenance manual, Clymers or otherwise, and read it.  

It's on order

Make sure your oil light never comes on.  If it isn't on, and the bike seems to run fine, then I say enjoy it, be safe, and have fun.

Thanks!!

[Jake D]

Either a lean or rich condition will cause some problems.  Lean is bad because it is then running hotter.

Adjusting valves can be done on your own to save money.  Kerry, one of the Moo-derators on this site, has a 1 hour 18 minute DVD on valve adjustment he produced and directed.  He even does his own stunts in the video.  It would help.  There should also be a thread in FAQ section (frequently asked questions).  It involves removing the valve cover, checking the distance between the valve and the cam with a gauge, and placing the proper thickness of shim in.  There are also two valve adjustment kits going around the country.  

Good luck.  

[scratch]

7500 miles means that you don't have to check the valves for another 500 miles (at 8000 miles, every 4000). Here's how: http://www.gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm
You don't have to remove the airbox and carbs (or the battery), unless you're going to check the automatic cam chain tensioner (and even then you don't have to remove the airbox, just remove the screws that hold it). Another thing, when checking the cam chain tensioner (CCT), I like to see how far it is extended, by using the screwdriver to keep it from relaxing when I pull it out; this gives me a really good idea on how 'stretched' the camchain is.

To make sure your oil light does not come on check your oil dipstick weekly after a ride. With the bike vertical on the centerstand, on a resonably level surface. Let it cool down at least a half hour, maybe an hour, that engine is hot!

[gazingwa]

or it means he is 3500 (didn't do the 4000) or 6900 (didn't do the 600 or 4000) miles overdue

[Slavik]

Thanks guys, it definately will go on the todo list.  
I will also look in at regular maintenance schedule in the manual, and pretty much check/replace anything that needs to be replaced up to this point.  Since the dealer had no idea on what was done to it (but he did assure me that his best mechanic looked it over ) I am going to assume that nothing was ever replaced on it and do everything myself

[dgyver]

[goat]

The yoshi also slip-on has a joint behind the engine underneath the bike. However, it does retain the cross-over pipe in the headers while the full system does not.

I also have a 93 that I bought last spring with 6200 miles on it at the time. From the repairs that I have done and what I can tell, my bike had the piss beat out of it and sat around a lot.

I would recommend giving the bike a good once-over before you ride much. Don't assume that any maintenance has been done since the bike came off the assembly line. I get a little paranoid when it comes to maintenance, so this list is pretty long. It isn't a "you must do now" list and even if it isn't all absolutely necessary, I would recommend doing them in the near future if you haven't already. They are all things that can be done by yourself if you have a manual like this Clymer Manual. The Haynes manual is also good.

Lube your clutch and throttle cables when you inspect them.
Make sure that you look at any rubber parts (brake lines, fuel lines, fork seals) and replace them if needed.
Inspect parts that should be periodically replaced (spark plugs, air filter etc.)
Make sure that your carbs have been re-jetted. If the brass plug over the

Air/Fuel Mixture screw is still in the carbs, they have not been re-jetted.
Make sure that there is no rust in the gas tank.
Lube the chain and make sure that its tension is OK
Make sure that the chain is in good shape (should be ok as long as it isnt rusty)
Clean and lube ALL of the bearings on the swingarm and the steering head
Check your brake pads to make sure that they are in one piece. if they are crubling, replace them before they ruin your rotors.
Check your valve shims (not as important right now)[/list:u]
Welcome to the board and good luck with the maintenance.

[Slavik]

definately saving this......THANKS for detailed response every one