First Wreck, NEED NEW PARTS!

[BigTwin]

Well I was coming around a blind turn at about 12:00 a couple of nights ago and midway through the turn some guy/girl is in my lane crossing the double yellows, and this is a very narrow road, so the only thing I could do is to go off the road and I laid it down because it was all stones, grass, and dirt so I had 0 traction.

Came away with a busted up knee, decent road rash, and a dislocated shoulder.

Now I need a:

1) New/used straight frame (bent where the shift lever foot peg goes onto the frame)

2) Left side rear plastic and center piece

3) Front fender

4) Other stuff after I check it more thouroughly

Also, the seat unlocking mechanism broke and the seat is just locked in place with no way to unlock it. Is there a way to unlatch it manualy?

Last thing, anyone with any parts listed above care to give me a good deal on selling them to me?

THANKS, BigTwin

[cernunos]

Wow, had the same thing happen to me about 30 years ago after I had just gotten the bike finished. In fact I had 125 miles on the bike. I was coming around a left-hand turn and some guy in a small car came right into my lane...needless to say I chose to go off-road. Bent the front forks and destroyed the fender but I was able to ride home with the left mirror stalk in my leg. Glad you're OK and that's a bummer about the bike. Somebody's bound to chime in with some parts. Love the White Owl, Alaska (I think you can still get lost there), and this forum.

C........

[Eisenfaust]

Are you sure the frame is bent? Thats kind of an odd place for the frame to bend... usually the peg breaks off before the frame bends.

Take it to a shop and see if its something that can be repaired. As long as the beams, headstock, etc, etc, etc, are all straight, it should be fine.

If all they need to do is reweld a support for a footpeg on, you don need a new frame.

[Church6360]

hmmm.. no parts here but here is a diagram. if 13 is broken off, then try to pull on the cable 12. it goes to a lever on 4.

[Frost]

are you talking about that triangle piece that holds the pegs?...if that thing is bent...stick a 2X4 on the other side and hammer it out...the frame shouldnt' be bent unless it hit a rock or something...

[DarkCyDE]

heres all the rear parts for sale (shameless self promotion)
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18083

[Blueknyt]

that looks like older style body work, dont think it will work for his, the lock and seat MIGHT but not sure.   what do you want for the 3 body panels?

[BigTwin]

are you talking about that triangle piece that holds the pegs?...if that thing is bent...stick a 2X4 on the other side and hammer it out...the frame shouldnt' be bent unless it hit a rock or something...

Well that bent and it caused the spot where it bolts to the frame to bend as well. Not bad, but when you screw it on it is crooked.

"hmmm.. no parts here but here is a diagram. if 13 is broken off, then try to pull on the cable 12. it goes to a lever on 4."

Cable 12 is off also, so there is NOTHING to pull on at all. Any ideas on what to do? And is anybody in Ohio that can help me out?

-BigTwin-

[CanadianGS]

go to the for sale section in this forum.  There is a guy A train who is selling all the parts of his bike.  Don't know if it helps ne for ya, but best of luck.  And sorry to hear about the bike/road rash, but its good to hear ur OK!

[GVH]

What year frame are you after older style or newer. I have the 1994 but it's in Canada.

[BigTwin]

I'm lookin for an 01-up frame so I can directly bolt stuff onto the new one.

-BigTwin-

[starwalt]

1) New/used straight frame (bent where the shift lever foot peg goes onto the frame)...Also, the seat unlocking mechanism broke and the seat is just locked in place with no way to unlock it. Is there a way to unlatch it manualy?

Glad to hear your injuries were limited, but the GS will live again without a new frame.  My 90 project had the same foot peg bend causing it to be about 20 degrees forward of perpendicular. I drilled holes in front of the mount area and used a dent puller with an "L" attachment to try and pull the offending section out. DO NOT WASTE TIME TRYING THIS!

I ended up just mounting the peg and plate again and used a 3 pound hammer to straighten it up  by "reverse wreck energy." The peg is perpendicular again, but the bolted portion shows the trauma. No stress crack either.  I now think of this as adding "character" to the bike.

If you really want perfection, you will have to cut the section out and weld in something and machine it to function. I also considered removing the swing arm and drilling holes on the inside of the frame in the offending area. Then I was going to beat it with a large hammer and drift until better. Using the peg assembly was way easier. As long as the metal has not torn, it will bend back.

Regarding seat removal sans normal mechanism...worm your hand under the seat behind the frame piece and feel for lever that the wire rope ball falls into. If you can pull it toward the left side enough, it will pop the  seat up. You can also try disassembling the lock assembly and pulling the rope that way.

Good luck!

[Kerry]

Also, the seat unlocking mechanism broke and the seat is just locked in place with no way to unlock it. Is there a way to unlatch it manualy?

See this thread.

DISCLAIMER:  I don't know how well this applies to the seat latch on the 2001+ models.

[gsJack]

BigTwin wrote:

1) New/used straight frame (bent where the shift lever foot peg goes onto the frame)...

Very easy to straighten, have done it on both bikes.  When my 97 was totalled and I restored it and also I bought the 02 for a very good price with the left peg bent back a bit and the forks twisted which popped back into place when loosened up.

I got a couple of longer, grade 8 socket head capscrews and nuts of the size that hold the peg plate to the frame.  I screwed the bolts into the frame a half inch and locked them down tight with the locknuts so I wouldn't break the lugs loose that are welded inside the frame that the screws go into.

I then heated the frame around the screws with a propane torch mostly just ahead of the nuts because the the pegs bend to the rear and frame bulges in front and then just tapped the bolt heads forward till they were straight.  Worked out great for me twice and when the peg plate was bolted back in place it didn't even show where I had heated the frame.

[davipu]

Kerry, the screwdriver method works great on the newer ones

[davipu]

ok Twin, you take a flathead screwdriver and lift up on the right rear corner of the seat, insert screwdriver, whare cable 12 connects to the the latch mechanisim there is a little plastic piece that sticks out you push that over with the screw driver and the seat comes off.  

ALT method.  remove the rear fender push over by hand.

bent frame?  it really sounds like just the rearset mounting area is bent so what you do is go get one of those $5 propane torches from a hardwhare store, remove the rubber peg assy.  and get a large cressent wrench.  put the rest of the rear set on the bike, heat and bend it back.  for the paint that your going to burn  duplicolour 1461 is the closest thing that i've found to match.

[davipu]

I should have read Jack's post.

[BigTwin]

Well thanks for the ideas on the seat, got it off.

Does anybody know what the frames are made out of?

Updated problems with bike:

1) Front forks are bent, as far as I can see, the tubes are bent and that's it. Can I replace just the tubes or should I replace the whole thing. I'm not really sure if the things on the bottom of the tube (where it hooks to the wheel) need to be replaced as well?

2) Front wheel has some gouges on it

3) Gauge bezel was broken when my windscreen came backwards and cracked it.

4) More to come for sure

-BigTwin-

I REALLY DON'T WANT TO GO TO THE STEALERSHIP, BECAUSE THEY WILL CHARGE ME AN ARM AND A LEG