Buell Lightning dual headlight write-up

[raylarrabee]

ok, finally got my card reader, so here goes.  Unfortunately, I don't have time to take the assembly apart, so you will have to use your imagination and measure a bit before you start.  Also, I didn't think to take pix during the process, so no step-by-steps.

Here's the finished product:





How to Do It:
Step 1:  disconnect negative battery cable  

Step 2:  remove entire headlight assembly (follow Clymer instructions)

Step 3:  remove headlight mounting "ears" (the triangular plates that connect directly to the headlight.  SAVE THE BOLTS connecting the ears to the fork-mounted brackets.  You will re-use some later.

Step 4:  measure the distance between the 2 threaded plastic tabs on the top of the buell headlight.  Cut a section of aluminum tubing to fit.

Step 5:  thread the end of the threaded rod into the tab on one side of the the headlight, but do not thread it through the other side of the tab.  Slide the piece of cut tubing between the tabs, with washers on each end.  Screw threaded rod all the way through the other tab, passing it through the interior of the washers and tubing.  Cut 2 identical lengths of tubing (about 1-1/2 to 2 inches long) which will slip over the outside ends of the threaded rod.



Step 6:  Get out your ruler.  Hold buell headlight where you want it to be.  Measure from the threaded rod to the top rear hole on the fork-mounted bracket.  You are trying to find the right length for the aluminum "arms" that you will make in the next step.  Remember, measure twice, cut once.



Step 7:  Cut 2 identical length pieces of 1/4" x 1" aluminum to the proper length (I think mine were about 6" long).  Once cut, round both ends of the 2 pieces off using a grinder.   You're aiming for a semi-circle on each end.

Step 8:  Drill a 5/16' hole at each end of the aluminum pieces in the center of the semi-circular ends.  

Step 9:  slip 1 washer onto each end of the threaded rod so the washers rest against the outside of the headlitht tabs.  Then, slip one of the 2 small lengths of tubing onto each end of the threaded rod.

Step 10:  slide aluminum arms onto the threaded rod.  Slip on a washer and then a lock washer onto the rod on the outside of the arms.  Then hand-tighten nuts on each end.  (don't worry if you have extra threaded rod on either end;  you can slice it off with the dremmel when you're done).

Step 11:  Wire up the headlight.  Wiring info from this thread:  http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13617&highlight=buell+headlights .  Quoting Dom:

As for the wiring, it's simple.

1) Buy a box of male and female connectors...some kind that will resist corrosion.

2) Cut the h4 connector off your bike's existing wiring harness(that's the three-prong female connector that plugs into the back of the headlight bulb). You will see two yellow wires, two blacks, and one white.

3) Attach the female connectors to these wires. Both yellow wires squeeze into one female. Do the same with the blacks. The white gets it's own.

NOTE: for any wires that come off the harness, use female connectors. That keeps any live wires unexposed and if they touch it wont matter, if you used males here you would run the risk of blowing fuses.

On your new headlight there are four wires. A black, a white, a yellow, and a white wire with an orange stripe. Don't worry about the white/orange. It powers a parking light that sits between the bulbs. I thought it would partially illuminate the hi side while the lo bulb was on but I tried and it's not even noticable. In other words, not worth your time.

4) Attach male ends to the black, white, and yellow.

5) Connect wires, but reverse whites and yellows. Otherwise the Hi/Lo switch will be reversed.

Step 11:  Position headlight, pasing aluminum arms to the INSIDE of the clutch cable and front brake line.  Using the bolts (screws?) you removed in step 3, attach aluminum arms to the fork-mounted brackets.

Step 12:  Get your lights aligned correctly and tighten the 2 nuts (step 10) and 2 bolts (Step 11).

[raylarrabee]

I was going to paint all the silver bits flat black, but it ended up looking fine the way it was.  

Another member did a MUCH cleaner installation, and I would do it that way if you can manage.  I tried, but I couldn't get the 1/2 x 1" steel hot enough to twist like he did.  FYI that thread is here:  http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7435&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

The Antibody's install DEFINITELY looks better , but I think it's hard to make his brackets w/o a torch.

Also, I still need to find a good way to hide all the wires that were previously contained in the headlight bucket.  I hid most of them in some corrogated plastic tubing (sold for hiding computer or A/V wires) and electrical tape.

Overall, the headlights look and work a lot better than stock, and my installation was very easy.  If you tighten the nust and bolts enough, the headlight will stay put.  I have hit a couple huge potholes and they didn;t shift at all.

Sorry I didn't think to take proper step-by-step photos  :dunno:   I am no Kerry...

[Roadstergal]

Very nice!

Ja, the Antibody has a nice install - I think part of that is the paint on the back of the gauge cluster.  It stands out and makes the black bits recede somewhat in attention-getting.

[scottpA_GS]

That was awesome man! Thanks so much.  

I cant wait till my headlights come in

[GSRider]

Looks great, but you REALLY need to do something about the rusting front rotor  

[etam]

good job!

how secure is it? no vibration at high speed?

how bright are they compare to stock? wider beam pattern? and further too?

front end looks naked without fender..

[ashman]

One of the reasons I got a GS is its looks. Part of that being the headlight, it gives it a timeless good look. I'm not wild about those dual headlight clusters they make it lacking too much up front. Just my 2 cents.

-ash

[scottpA_GS]

I got my GS for the same reasons... Im not quite Crotch Rocket material, and I def. am not the chopper type. So I bought a bike w/ no plastic!, or at least not much.. however, that big gleamin dome in the front.. !?!? i gotta get a replacement soon! The GS looks cool, but the front light has gotta be keepin me down


Pimpin aint easy...

[dbarile]

Very nice. I like the dual light setup without the buell's fairing.

I will probably leave my 93GS as a single light though.

I'm kinda partial to the single round light.

[raylarrabee]

Looks great, but you REALLY need to do something about the rusting front rotor  

That lovely rust was the result of forgetting to put the cover on my bike and getting rain for 3 straight days.  How can I remove it w/o making the disk slippery with solvent?

About the stability, I haven't had any problems with excess vibration, even at highway speeds.  The light coverage is a LOT better than my stock light.  The stock light made a sort of halo of light, leaving the middle of the road in front of me almost entirely unlit (sp?).  I think it would be improved by being able to run both the low beam and bright light at the same time, but I couldn't figure out how to wire it up to do that.

[Kerry]

That lovely rust was the result of forgetting to put the cover on my bike and getting rain for 3 straight days.  How can I remove it w/o making the disk slippery with solvent?

Just ride it.  Allow extra distance for the first several stops.  Then take a look at the rotor.  Magic!