Bike starts for 3 minutes then dies ... post carb cleaning

[Shakes]

Greetings,

First, I don't know what I am doing.  But I am trying...

Current problem:  I removed and cleaned my carb.  Reassembled it ... incorrectly at first ... but now the bike will start for 2 to 3 minutes and then die.  When I try to start it, it makes a low, slow chug...as if it really WANTS to start but can't.  If I let it sit for a few minutes and try again it will start.

More info:  '92 GS500E - bought it off a guy that had it in the garage for a couple of years.  I was having a problem on the Autobahn when I attempted to go over 75 MPH, the bike would "starve" and "shudder" and it actually died on me a few times.  I concluded that a dirty carb may be to blame so I attempted the cleaning.

PLEASE HELP ... the limited warm and dry weather here in Germany is quickly passing my by.  Thanks.

[gazingwa]

check your floats... found in the faq or the gstwin.com page

[davipu]

tank petcock half open.

[goat]

I'll second the floats. Also, look at your plugs. It sounds like you're running rich and your plugs are a good indicator of mixture (the Haynes chart is a good reference)

[stephan]

I hope things work out for you.  I know first hand about the carbs on the GS.  Let me just say this - I don't think they like to be touched.  I messed with mine and here it is July and I haven't been on my bike yet this year.   :x

Maybe it's just my bike, but those things seem reeeeeaallllly touchy.  I know that many people here have rejetted and cleaned their carbs with no problems but I seem to read a lot of posts that go something like this - I touched my carbs now my bike won't run . . .   At least that's how my posts were.

Anyway, enough venting, good luck to you, I hope your bike is up and running soon!  

[Shakes]

OK,

I made sure the petcock was open...which I believe is on/off switch directly under fuel tank...so that wasn't the problem

I just got done adjusting the float valves...which I am assuming is bending (gently) the metal tab so that the distance is 1.4 cm +/- .1 when the tab is just touching the back/bottom of needle "thing" (sorry, I am a little new at this).

Got it started again after jumping it.  It spluttered and spit but sounded better than it had... and then it died again

Question 1:  Am I adjusting the float valves correctly?  (Please give instructions and advice as you would to your mother, wife or small child)

Question 2:  Could something be sticking?  (Please see instructions from Question 1)

Question 3:  Other things to check?

Thanks.

[knowlsey]

did you prime first, you need to fill the float bowls after a clean out

and have you removed the plugs to check the color and condition, the plugs give you a good idea of a fuel problem

[Kerry]

Am I adjusting the float valves correctly?

It sounds like you're doing it right, but I couldn't tell which distance you were measuring.

See if this thread clarifies things for you.

Good Luck!

[micron64]

did you mess with the fuel mixture screw when you were cleaning? if they're all the way in that could make it to lean too run... i think...... ive been messing with mine and im wondering what the right turns are. im thinking 1.5 but that fouls one side so i now have 1.25 on one side and 1.75 on the other. but that could be part of the problem why my bike violently vibrates.

[Shakes]

Fellas,

Thanks for all the help.  I will give those things a try.  But it will have to wait till Friday....going to Paris for a few days....it's tough being over here....

[vfrocket]

make sure you put the needles and spacers back in, in the right order, I had the same problem because when I put my carbs back together after cleaning I put the spacer (that helps the spring hold the needle down) through the needle instead of on top of it. Also check to see that you didnt lose the little o-rings from the top of the diaphragm covers...

my 2 cents..