Valves Adjusted now it Wont Start!

[acesmike]

Hey guys,
I just finished a valve adjustment according to the tech pages.  I only upped the size of the two exhaust shims by .05mm  . The engine turns, I have a spark and the engine seems to be getting hot so I am assuming fuel is being burnt... Any Ideas guys, Im stumped  :x

[The Buddha]

Yea ... tank petcock ... you open it after ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[scratch]

Yep, open the tank shutoff and then turn the selector to Prime to fill the floatbowls.

Did you check your valve clearances after you put the new shims in? After you rotated the motor a few times by hand?

[raylarrabee]

either that, you you may have pinched a fuel line.

[Anonymous]

Yes, I did the same, turned it to off and forgot to turn it back on.  I thought I royally screwed up the engine, ran like crap for a few minutes and then died never to start again.  Open it back up and you'll be fine.

[acesmike]

petcock open...It wont even fire up. I did fail to recehck the gap!

[The Buddha]

OK then ... choke on ... carbs got fuel, spark yea you have you say, what else ... you use the advancer to crank it over or use the rear wheel ?? maybe advancer is loose/bent/off somehow ... Then ... you have a valve hanging open ?? adjusted too tight ... at negative clearance.
What else ... vacuum lines hooked up ?? vacuum caps on the carbs ...
Oh yea the latest thing that has killed me ... NGK sparkies seem to hate motors that are even a shade rich ... I went to champions ... night and day. 809 champions.
Cool.
Srinath.

[acesmike]

I will recheck everything tomorrow. Thanks a bunch man I really appreciate the quick response!

[Kerry]

I only upped the size of the two exhaust shims by .05mm

It's unusual (in my experience ... but maybe not in Srinath's) to install thicker exhaust shims.  I'll be interested in what you find out when you recheck the clearances.

Still, one shim size shouldn't make a start/no start kind of difference - unless they were already overly tight and you made them even tighter.

Hmmmm.  Is your choke cable hooked up properly?

[davipu]

it sounds like you killed your compression by installing the thicker exaust shims.

[Anonymous]

I'd have to agree with davipu here...  The valves wear as they age and EVERYONE I know has to go with a LOWER thickness shim.  I'd bet they're staying open and your burning the fuel/air but don't have enough compression to keep the engine running.

[acesmike]

The ones in there were a number 265 and I replaced them with a 270.  I just fiddled with it a little more but still failed to check the clearances again  :guns:   I did notice that I moved the cam outta place,  so I consulted my manual as to get it straight. Still no go.  I can hear it begin to ignite occasionaly but thats as far as it gets. I will pull it apart again soon and check the clearances.  I shouldnt have even messed with it LOL. It was running great but the valves were clicking so I was hoping to fix it  

[acesmike]

I may have to go with a lower thickness shim?  I used my guage intake valves were at .05 and the exhaust valves had a gap of .10 So given that I put in a shim that was .o5mm larger to compensate for it having a larger gap and bring the gap to .05mm.  Hmm. Guess Ill just have to see where its really at now. :dunno:

P.S. I have fuel flow, and yes the choke is hooked up right. Thanks!

[Ed89]

I bent my valve doing a shim job once.  Check to make sure that isn't what's going on.  Pull out spark plugs, press thumb on hole, then crank the engine.  Your thumb will be blown away pretty forcefully by the compressed air.  If it is just a whimper, then you have a incomplete seal.  Probably shim is too tight or, like in my case, bent valve.

If you tried to start with when timing was misaligned (cam, chain, etc.), then it is possible that you have already bent a valve.

Cheers,
e.

[Kerry]

I did notice that I moved the cam outta place,  so I consulted my manual as to get it straight. Still no go.

I almost read right over that.  When you say, "I moved the cam outta place" ... do you mean what I think you mean?  (What Ed89 is referring to.)

If so, then you must have removed one or more camshaft journal caps.  Am I right?  (Please say no.)

[acesmike]

The cam bearing caps...Uhh yea I did remove them because I dont have the tool Required. Stupid eh? I hope I didn't just poop my engine out!

[acesmike]

I do have compression Thanks ED89 my finger almost ended up in my eye, lol only cause it scared me.  Guess I just need to recheck the clearances :dunno:
I just read the valve shim selection on your page Kerry and I had  .10mm gaps with a shim that was 2.65mm so I replaced them both with 2.70mm...

[The Buddha]

I do have compression Thanks ED89 my finger almost ended up in my eye, lol only cause it scared me.  Guess I just need to recheck the clearances :dunno:
I just read the valve shim selection on your page Kerry and I had  .10mm gaps with a shim that was 2.65mm so I replaced them both with 2.70mm...

OK important point then ... did you de-tension the tensioner before you yanked out your cams, and did you do both camshafts at the same time ... or did you turn over the motor inbetween ... The CCT need to be retracted, cams removed and no motor turnover inbetween ... else you may be messed up timing ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[acesmike]

THe tensioner was taken off to get the cam out, and Yea I did move the motor around a bit, but followed my manual to get it back to TDC. You may be onto something though.

[acesmike]

ARG! I just took the cover off and it seems that the cam is not lined up with TDC according to the RT mark! shaZam! I hope I didnt F* it all up! I  will keep posted after I fix it!
Mike