trying to install crash bars :(((

[Soaring]

ok, I finally got the crash bars for my poor GS but now I got stuck with the problem of unscrewing the nuts and bolts that hold the engine. I could not manage to do anything. Put a whole bunch of wd40 on it yesterday and tried again today... ended up messing one of the nuts ((((((( the wrench head did sit pretty well on the nut and still it slipped and messed it up. so now I am even affraid to try the other two.

any ideas on what can help me?

[Crim]

Make sure you are using the proper sized socket for the nut.  It should be a metric size.  If you can't break the nut loose, you need to get a larger sized wratchet with a longer handle (longer handle == more applied torque) or slip a cheater bar over the end of your wratchet to make its handle longer.

To get strip'd nuts loose, I have a LARGE set of clamping vice grips that I use.  I crank that sucker on as tight as I can, and then wail on it with a big hammer.  Works every time for me.

[Cal Price]

My engine bars (Renntec ?) came with new studs and nuts to replace the old engine bolts so up to a point damaging the old stuff is not an issue. One you get the nut off (using the method suggested above)use the new stud to push the old one out, if you can give the engine some support it may be helpful. The old fixing slid out surprisingly easily once the nut was off simply by tapping the new stud in. I used a 2"x2" piece of wood to tap it so there was no risk of damaging the new thread ends. I am no great wrencher but found it simple enough.

[Phaedrus]

Do they look like these?

http://gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22233



Anyways, if WD-40 does not work, try getting some P.B. Blaster. That stuff is works better than WD-40 I think (when it is really severe!). And when you spray it on, soak that sucker and let it sit and "penetrate" for a while. Don't spray it and expect it to work automatically.

Crim is right, make sure you are using the proper size socket. Not a "close enough" one.  

[Soaring]

mine came with rods and nuts too, so I am not too concerned with the old stuff, but my problem at the moment is removing the old one.

I use metric size 14mm that's the one that gets on it (13mm is too small). and my wratchet is pretty small, so what I did was I hit the handle with the rubber hammer (not sure what's the right name for it). usually works pretty well for me but not today so I guess I will try to get a larger handle... I will try to use locking plyers  (that's what you are talking about Crim, right?) but I am not sure if I can do it as it might be hard to get them in this limited space...

thanks guys for the advise! I am looking forward for more ideas, but will definitely try these two  

[Soaring]

Do they look like these?

http://gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22233



Anyways, if WD-40 does not work, try getting some P.B. Blaster. That stuff is works better than WD-40 I think (when it is really severe!). And when you spray it on, soak that sucker and let it sit and "penetrate" for a while. Don't spray it and expect it to work automatically.

Crim is right, make sure you are using the proper size socket. Not a "close enough" one.  

as I mentioned I left wd40 overnight, so there was plenty of time to penetrate there and I use 14mm and 13mm is too small so I figured it's the right size  :dunno:

[callmelenny]

I'll second the rec. for PB Blaster

That stuff works 10x better than WD-40

[Alphamazing]

Make sure that you're trying to loosen the nut and not the bolt. I had that problem when I was messing with my old '92's crash bars.

Also, I know how you feel not being able to get them off. When I was taking the engine out of the old bike after it got wadded I sheared a socket in half trying to unbolt the engine. Those fuckers are on tight!!

[GeeP]

Good sturdy 1/2" breaker bar and socket with a cheater bar.  Oh...  See my sig.  

[z315]

where did you get the crash bars for the GS anyways? dose it have a website?

[Soaring]

GeeP, what's a breaker bar and what's a cheater bar?

z, I got it from twistedthrottle.. paid tons of money ($120) but I was down twice and don't want to risk my engine anymore

[Soaring]

alpha, so what did you do? how did you get it off? I soaked the whole thing in pb blaster like recommended here and tomorrow plan to try again

[GeeP]

Soaring:

A breaker bar is a bar with a swivel head on the end instead of a ratchet.  It allows you to apply more torque without worrying about stripping the ratchet mechanism.  Make sure to use a 1/2" breaker bar and associated socket.  A 3/8" breaker bar will yield if you yank on it too much.



A cheater bar is just a section of pipe that you slip over the handle of a ratchet, breaker bar, jack handle, load binder, etc. to increase your leverage.  3' should be long enough for your application.  

[Blueknyt]

a cheater pipe/bar is a metal tube that will slip over the handle of the breaker bar or rachet in order to apply more torque with less strain.  and Make double sure its the NUT and Not the bolt end, as well as Turning in the correct direction

[Soaring]

thanks guys! I do work on the nut not the bolt and I do try to turn it in the right direction. As far as cheater bar is concearned, is it some special pipe or any general purpose pipe is fine?

[GeeP]

Any old piece of pipe will do.

[Cal Price]

I am sure the suggestions already made will do the business on the nut but if not try a quick blast of heat of you gave a gas blowlamp, don't overdo it you just want to heat the nut not the bolt, other than that it might be a job for an impact driver but treat these suggestions as last resort what you probably need is better leverage and a bit of a whack to start with.

[Soaring]

got two out of three with overnight pb blaster and a slightly longer lever. the third one doesn't give in... I guess I'll still have to part with some money for a better ratchet  :dunno: oh well...