Engine rebuild help

[bcutrufelli]

I have a spare motor and I am tearing it down and rebuilding it.  I will need some guidance from those that have done this before so this thread will be where I post new questions as I go.  I already have 1 question.

In the clymer Manual on page 108 figure 11  where is this RT-F markings and refers to having the marks on the center of the "pickup coil"?

This is finding the position before you remove the cam bearing caps for those that have the haynes manual.  Can you please guide me with this?

Next question is what valve spring compressor are you using?

Detailed pics would be best but a good explanation would help.

[Frost]

is it possible to rebuilt an engine just by following the clymer manual?

any machinary required?

[dgyver]

I have a spare motor and I am tearing it down and rebuilding it.  I will need some guidance from those that have done this before so this thread will be where I post new questions as I go.  I already have 1 question.

In the clymer Manual on page 108 figure 11  where is this RT-F markings and refers to having the marks on the center of the "pickup coil"?

This is finding the position before you remove the cam bearing caps for those that have the haynes manual.  Can you please guide me with this?

Remove the small right side round cover, held on with 3 screws. There is the signal generator rotor (aka ignition advancer) that they are referring to. Make sure you turn the motor by 19mm hex (or 17mm, I do not recall which one it is) and NOT the 10mm bolt.

Next question is what valve spring compressor are you using?

Detailed pics would be best but a good explanation would help.

See the FAQ forum for the one I made and use:
Weekend Wrenching: DIY Valve Spring Compressor

[bcutrufelli]

thnks for the information but I still canot locate exactly where those marks are

[scratch]

The marks are on the rotor; they line up with the right pickup.

You do not need any machinery. Special tools, maybe.

[bcutrufelli]

Oops I messed up I understand now.  The motor that was given to had the right cover off already and missing.  Well so was the bolt and that metal peice with the markings.  I knew i was missing something obvious becuse when I removed the same on my bike Wahla! there it was my answer.  Now I need to obtain the bolt and the metal peice with the timing marks.  I am assuming I will have to have these parts in place for me to remove the cams properly?  If I am tearing down the whole motor is it true that I can proceed and obatin these parts later?

[dgyver]

Having all the parts to start with usually helps.  

You will only need the rotor to locate the crankshaft to set the timing after the rebuild. If you are only doing a top end it is best to locate the crank in the correct position first. Since you have another motor, you can borrow the rotor to do either of these.

[davipu]

I have a good spare motor, if your interested with 8000 miles on it

[bcutrufelli]

i do not need a motor I am tearing down the spare for a learning experience more or less.  the motor in my bike is fine.  However if you want to sell some small parts off of it I may be interested

[bcutrufelli]

wow well I have the head off now and wow its not pretty inside.  I should be getting a digital camera for Christmas so I will be able to take pics.  I did alot already but nothing that the manual wont tell you.  Anyway what engine solvent do you guys use to degrease and acess condition exc. Will these solvents take off the paint coating on the motor also?

[dgyver]

What are you trying to clean? If it is the carbon build-up then gasoline and steel wool works.

[V8Pinto]

wow well I have the head off now and wow its not pretty inside.  I should be getting a digital camera for Christmas so I will be able to take pics.  I did alot already but nothing that the manual wont tell you.  Anyway what engine solvent do you guys use to degrease and acess condition exc. Will these solvents take off the paint coating on the motor also?

Let's see the inside.  I like looking at engine parts more than....well...I like it a lot.

I try to not use solvents if I don't have to.  Mostly I use brake cleaner (the eco-kind kind - yes I sound like a tree hugger) and WD-40 or just plain ol' soap and water with a brush and some rags.  We farm around here so anything I use eventually goes into the dirt and I eat what comes outta there so....

soft faced scrapers work for carbon (don't scratch the pistons of chamber).  Take care with the coating on the motor.  It's tough but some solvents will discolor it.

[Trwhouse]

Hi there,
I would NOT use gasoline to clean parts because it is explosive and needs only the tiniest spark to ignite.
Instead, use commercial parts cleaners like contact cleaner or other spray cleaners that are much safer. For $30 or so Pep Boys and AutoZone stores sell a small parts cleaner tub with cleaner that is very nice to have and use.
Also, if you need a valve compressor tool, I have a Honda factory tool that I'd be happy to loan out if you pay for shipping both ways and return it in a reasonable amount of time. I live in PA. To be sure it would work on the GS500 head, you should measure how far in the valves are so I can measure the tool and confirm that it will fit.
Best of luck.
Go slowly, ask a lot of questions here and you will do fine.
Yours,
Todd

[jiggersplat]

you watch too much tv.  gasoline is NOT explosive.  gasoline vapor is explosive.  if you've ever seen a puddle of gasoline burn, you are actually watching the layer of vapor above the liquid gasoline burn.

[Trwhouse]

Hi again,
Well, using that logic, I guess guns aren't dangerous either unless you shoot someone with them.
I've worked in three different motircycle shops and a car shop in my life and we NEVER used gasoline to clean parts. We used SafetyKleen brand parts washers that had automatically-closing lids to shut in the event of a fire in the parts washers, or we used contact cleaner or other safer cleaners.
Why risk using gasoline? Even if ONLY the vapors are explosive, as soon as you use it and expose it to the air, VAPORS are being emitted, DUH, so it's now dangerous. I just don't think it's a good idea.
Ask some experts, like your local fire department for their opinions.
Safe parts cleaner is cheap and you'll still have a house and garage to inhabit  instead of burning it down as part of your engine rebuild.  
It's just my opinion, of course, but we'll see what others here say.
Yours,
Todd

[Badger]

you watch too much tv.  gasoline is NOT explosive.  gasoline vapor is explosive.

So, do you have tips on how to use gasoline as a cleaning agent and not generate gasoline vapor?

But--in the spirit of nit-picking--you are correct.  It would have been a more accurate statement if he had said, "I would NOT use gasoline to clean parts because it is creates a potentially explosive environment."

[jiggersplat]

i didn't say it was a good idea, but i don't think it's quite as dangerous as you are making it out to be.  anyway, most solvents and just about anything from an aerosol can is flammable/explosive to some degree.  additionally, you need a concentration of vapors big enough to ignite.  and to say that just exposing it to air is dangerous is a bit of an exageration.  otherwise gas stations would be exploding left and right.  people would blow up from drinking grain alcohol and smoking cigarettes at the same time.

anyway, inhaling the fumes is probably more dangerous to your health than any risk from explosion.

Hi again,
Well, using that logic, I guess guns aren't dangerouos either unless you shoot someone with them.
I've worked in three different motircycle shops and a car shop in my life and we NEVER used gasoline to clean parts. We used SafetyKleen brand parts washers that had automatically-closing lids to shut in the event of a fire in the parts washers, or we used contact cleaner or other safer cleaners.
Why risk using gasoline? Even if ONLY the vapors are explosive, as soon as you use it and expose it to the air, VAPORS are being emitted, DUH, so it's now dangerous. I just don't think it's a good idea.
Ask some experts, like your local fire department for their opinions.
Safe parts cleaner is cheap and you'll still have a house and garage to inhabit  instead of burning it down as part of your engine rebuild.  
It's just my opinion, of course, but we'll see what others here say.
Yours,
Todd

[jiggersplat]

let's not turn this into a flame war.

mwuahahaha!

[dgyver]

Better not run your bike then. It does not have a catalytic converter and will produce toxic gases. Oh no, we are all going to die!

[Blueknyt]

i prefer using Diesel fuel for cleaning myself, not as volitile to spark ignition as gasoline or actetone is. also being mainly oil, the parts wont rust or oxydize so easy.  fact i have an actual parts washer that sits ona 30 gal drum,and need to find a pump for it.