White faced dials

[bubba zanetti]

Did any of the GS's ever have white dials with black numbers?

I've been thinking that white dials would be a nice look with the cafe racer look my bikes taking.

[makenzie71]

No but I'm sure that bandit guages would fit the bill nicely.  My 400 had white faces and I think the larger ones did too...cable drive speedo, geared the same, and the tach is electric so you'll just have to keep in mind that your bike should not be in the 17,000rpm+ range.

[bubba zanetti]

Thanks.nThe trouble would be getting Bandit gauges down under.

I was sure that one model had white dials, spose the memory just plays tricks on you  as you get older. But a set of the later model gauges with the chrome rings will do just as well.

[Jeppy]

There was a guy I think last year that custom made some for himself and did post them and he got a ton of people asking for them but nothing ever came of them. He just did one set for himself and that was it......

[starwalt]

Happy New Year Twinners!

There have been half a dozen posts here on the subject. I think I have the ultimate solution that involves using white/translucent vellum and some meter face software designed for electrical meters. Part of this has been a process to make a new faceplate (not outer glass item) from clear plexiglass. I am not quite ready to go public yet with the method, but it should allow mass production that the other methods (scanned faces, painting, etc.) do not allow. I tried the scan/photo edit method, but the resolution is not acceptable to me.  The material that the graduations are printed on is also critical. Our meters are not hermetically sealed and moisture intrusion will cause paper to wick water.

The original meter faces seem to be clear plastic with the black/white/red information printed/silkscreen on. The black and red fades when left in the sun and eventually the entire face becomes a dull gray. This poses a problem for night use I address below.

The challenge is removing the meter glass and ring. The sealing ring around the clockworks is crimped and holds the glass piece in place. My solution is to file away the 90 degree portion of the ring thus hiding the invasion. I made a rotary table to hold the clock and spin it at a variable speed. This allows me to hold the file stationary and let the motor do the work. It also provides a more uniform removal of the ring edge.

Here's a pic of above's process(click to enlarge)

One fellow just cut through the clock's housing just beyond the crimp ring with rotary blade in a drill press. There is enough clearance to allow regluing the housing with no fouling. I did not care to try this.  

Here's a link to the website of pre-89 GS series showing the method. When reattaching the ring/glass section, I used black RTV. It provides a good seal.

The mechanism used in the speedo has not changed from 89. The tacho became electrical in 03/04. Regardless of the meter technology, you must make sure you return the needle to rest postion (against the pin) it was in before invasion.

Here's some clocks in various stages of disassembly (click to enlarge)


Here's a view of a tach totally stripped down.
The face plate would be at the top of the image. (click to enlarge)

The completion of the mod would invovle replacing the faceplate and reassembly.

One problem reported with white gauges is the brightness of them at night. The clock may require a lower wattage bulb or some form of dimmer circuitry to reduce the flash effect. This is the same problem "grayed out" meter faces have.

My thoughts are to make up several plates for the DIY crowd, or offer modified gauges. One problem would be with the odometer reading. If someone wanted a turn key deal, they would have to send me their speedo and wait until it returned modified.

Once again, I am NOT ready to offer this.
For more photos of instruments visit that section of my webpage HERE.  You could also visit the entire page and find yourself in the photo section for other GS rebuild information. Just click on the link in my signature.

[lumpoffire]

Happy New Year Twinners!

The challenge is removing the old plastic meter face. The sealing ring around the clockworks is crimped. My solution is to file away the 90 degree portion of the ring thus hiding the invasion. I made a rotary table to hold the clock and spin it at a variable speed. This allows me to hold the file stationary and let the motor do the work. It also provides a more uniform removal of the ring edge.

.

Starwalt,

Thanks for the detailed information on removing meter faces.  I have been wanting to do this for a long time, just to clean the inside of the clear lens, but have been afraid of screwing up the plastic pieces.  

D.

[starwalt]

My pleasure. I edited the original post for a little more clarity.

PS - I dig your sig  :lol:

[Jared]

I have a few sets of the overlays here still...

Here's a link of the How to I posted...:
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7525&highlight=

Read that post "...and here are the "pics" (I scanned the gauges directly).





The VX800 gauges  had White Dials....and so did the Bandits didn't they??
The VX uses the same gauge buckets and mount as the GS does...(but The vx wasn't in the US for long...)

[starwalt]

There you go! I thought Jared did this previously.

Jared, did you use inkjet or color laser?

[GeeP]

Looks like you're on your way to a good idea Starwalt.

+1 on the meter disassembly.  I was looking at them a week or so ago wondering how they come apart.  

On thing...

Did you check the number of turns preload on the needle hairspring before disassembly?  I recall that there should be a certain amount of preload on the hairspring holding it to the rest needle.

[Jared]

Actually a friend of mine makes them...I sent him the gauge faces ( I dismantled them and mailed him the pieces he needed...). I'll double check on what he uses...



GeeP- Read my how to -it covers the needle issue..( basically you just lift the needle over the stop and let it rest where it wants... mark the outside lip of the gauge face and then remove the needle....

[GeeP]

basically you just lift the needle over the stop and let it rest where it wants... mark the outside lip of the gauge face and then remove the needle....

I've had more than one instrument that had multiple turns of preload.  Nothing like the needle skipping the rest and whizzing through x number of uncountable turns.  :x

Looks like you two have it covered though.  I'm interested to see what Starwalt has cooking in the print-your-own field.  

[starwalt]

Did you check the number of turns preload on the needle hairspring before disassembly?  I recall that there should be a certain amount of preload on the hairspring holding it to the rest needle.

GeeP- Read my how to -it covers the needle issue..( basically you just lift the needle over the stop and let it rest where it wants... mark the outside lip of the gauge face and then remove the needle....

Jared's method is fine and probably the easiest to use. The meter technology (except for the 03/04+ tacho) is subject to some error. This too has been discussed here...somewhere. When the needle is lifted over the pin, it only swings about 30 to 45 degrees past the pin. I imagine that if you were to try a mass production mod, you would find they all fall about the same place.