POR 15 help ... from POR users ...

[The Buddha]

OK I tried POR 15 ... I dont like it one bit ... and I may like it even less after I know this ... or may like it a bit more ...
OK here is the question ...

After the sealer is in the tank for a day or so, will it soften and become a liquid again with Lacquer thinner is not, what will ... this tank has too much of the sealer in it I feel at this point. However I dont know it well enough to coat thin ... and get thicker progressively like I do with kreem.
BTW here is advice for anyone doing POR 15.
The metal ready bit is total BS. It doesn't eat rust like muriatic acid does, ir sorta coats on rust and weirdly blisters ... we are supposed to wire brush or sponge them down ... yes inside the tank too ...  ... Now I had to back up 1 step, drain that stuff out ... thank god its reuseable ... and eat the rust with muriatic acid, then drop this back in. Here is another warning. The metal ready will coat it with zinc phosphate ... but in under 2 hours the tank will start to rust. Now that is a refreshing amount of time, since with muriatic acid it will flash rust almost instantly ... however we know that but they seem to imply that zinc phosphate will make it not rust at all ... or atleast for a long while ...
Kreem is simpler with fewer mystery materials IMHO.  Metal ready with some BB's or lead shot may work well ... scrape the rust out while getting the thing coated over ... BTW dont put BB's in a GS tank ... crap pockets are impossible to get BB's out of.
Now the advantage is ... with light I mean girly (and not GS riding girl) light rust ... metal ready is easier on your nose etc ... not asphyxiating like Muriatic acid, and the sealer could be thinned out to runny consistency and progressively coated ... but if its heavy rust ... you'd need the muriatic acid before Metal ready. In any case I have a tank I'd be coating soon that I cannot run muriatic acid in ... so I'd try BB's and metal ready ... I guess its got its place, but for generic crap its hard to beat kreem. And its $15 for the sealant whihc will last 3-4 tanks instead of the $40 POR kit. Acid and acetone is cheap at Home depot I dont even count that per say.
Cool.
Srinath.

[V8Pinto]

I've used both without problems.  Except that it takes about a month for the stuff to wear off your skin.  Actually, I guess it takes that layer of skin a month to wear off and then the sealer is gone with the skin.  Meanwhile you look like you live in a vat of wheelbearing grease and don't like to wash your hands.

Other than that, and the weird stares I got about my hands from the training classes a week after, I didn't have a problem.  I used chains, screws, bolts, etc to shake around in there.  The POR tank I did was on a 55 F100 pickup and the tank had at least 40 years of rust in it.  It came out fine.  I also used it in my race car tank and it worked well but I didn't take as much time to get the rust out.  Just scraped a little and let the stuff goo over what was there. 

Now on bikes....I definitely like kreeming my tanks....   

I go to the Harley dealer and they've got a nice kit that's sized for bike tanks.  With POR you have a boat load of extra but kreem...it's just the right size for a bike tank.  I've noticed no difference between the two products.

I did that 55 F100 tank about 10 years ago and the spillage still hasn't worn off my garage floor hahahahaha.

[The Buddha]

OK now did the dried POR come loose with lacquer thinner
Cool.
Srinath.

[Jared]

I've used the POR quite a few times  with great results (better than Kreem in My not so Humble opinion...heheheh).

How long did you slosh the Metal Ready around in the tank??  I do it for almost double the time they say for good measure. if you have heavy heavy rust..yeah the acid will probably do a better job . I 've had a decent amount of rust in a tank and just kept sloshing the Metal ready around til it was all gone (why I do it twice as long usually..can't see  it all to be sure)....the spots got smaller and smaller til they were  pretty much gone...all that was left were tiny coated rough spots like you'd expect.


As for having too much stuff in there they recommend draining it for about a half hour if I recall... after that turn it so whatever is left runs to a corner or to the bottom away from the fpetcock mounting area etc...

I let the tanks cure for 4 full days...(tho you can use it after what...2 if memory serves..).

If you like Kreem... use it.   

[V8Pinto]

OK now did the dried POR come loose with lacquer thinner
Cool.
Srinath.

Nope.  Not the spots on the floor anyway.  And I didn't "prep" the floor before the spill 

I tried to clean them off with gas, thinner, simple green - everything I could think of.  The spots were about 1/8" thick.

[The Buddha]

OK then ... POR is permanent ... BTW they say clean your hands in case of skin contact with Lacquer thinner. I have one tank that is POR ... then I am going back to kreem. I like the fact that I can run kreem thin if needed, and thick if needed. And its muriatic acid etch ... $5 for 2 gallons of it. Acetone is again $8 a quart. POR is easier on the tank I believe ... and heck its easier on you ... I drop muriatic acid in a brass welded tank and guess what ... I have a gaping hole in it. Muriatic acid will eat everything but steel and quite rapidly too. Rust disappears when you hit it with it. Heck its like someone shook a can of mountain dew and oppped it open.
Cool.
Srinath.

[starwalt]

When I did POR my tank, I used the muriatic phase first to blast out the crap pocket holes. Then the Metal Ready HOT as in with boiling water. Slosh, slosh, slosh. The crap pocket holes let it drain really well and then I made a hose adapter to flush the tank.

Took a hot air gun to it to dry it out totally. Let it cool  and then black electrical tape over the crap pocket holes.

Right there I should have followed the instructions better. The POR kit has that piece of woven paper cloth. You are supposed to clip it like a bandage and goop it onto the area of a hole. Let dry, coat it again, etc. I figured the tape would hold.

Well it did for one side. The other side leaked like an artery so I let it and then tried to stop it. All said and done, that side failed my pressure test and I troweled JB Weld into it, sanded it, JB Weld again. It passes pressure tests now.

I emailed POR and asked if a second coat would stick to itself. They said rough it up with sandpaper...yeah right. I guess I could rig up a metal stick and scratch around the crap pocket.

My buddy with another 90 wants to line his tank so I'll take the run off of his kit and try to top coat the crap pocket on the weak side.

Yeah the stuff is really tough and permanent. I like it, but you really need to have a good technique to get good results.

I too had some on my hands for days afterward. 

[The Buddha]

Oh ... tape somehting ... never got that with my kit ... of course I got the damn kit free from Adam R when I bought his tank for $50 ... booya ... and I kreemed it ... kept the POR for a rainy day and used it all up in a trifle ... so back to square one ... but he I do need the practice. BTW I prolly will try acetone etc and see on the stuff in the can ... will help to know if the liquid will dissolve in acetone, and of course how it cures up after that, then if that cured mess softens in acetone, and of course will it cure after that.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Jared]

Yeah Starwalt...I didn't want tot be the one to say "Operater Error..."...LOL.

Just kidding... it works great and yes that stuff doesn't come off....