Installing the CASportTouring clock/thermometer/voltmeter

[Rema1000]

I'd like to install a clock/thermometer/voltmeter.  It has a 3-wire lead for constant +12v, switched +12v and ground.  It has a very long wire, so I should be able to install it anywhere.  Can anyone suggest a good place, to achieve some neat splices?

I could run the wires back under the seat, and use the battery + and - for two of the three wires, and then cut into (say) the taillight for the switched power.  But then the power would not be fused.  

I could cut into the wires at the R/R pigtail (which is always hot) and taillight; then I would get fuse protection.

I could cut into the ignition wire inside the headlight housing, which would be fused, and a much shorter run of wire.  Anybody know which wire in there is always hot?

All of these suggestions would require cutting into two wires, which I'd prefer to avoid.  There are several unused spade connectors on the bike (2 in the headlight bucket, one by the R/R); anybody know if there are any +12v unused spade connectors?

That reminds me, while I was looking for such an unused hot connector, I found a bundle of 3 wires that dead-ends just behind the battery.  At the end of the wires, is a female connector, filled with a 3-prong plug, wrapped in electrical tape.  There is a symbol on the  plug, which looks to me like the symbol for two diodes.  Anybody know what this three-prong plug is for?  Some kind of diode pack?

[werase643]

buy a toggle switch and an in line fuse....hide the switch and install the fuse in the +12 V line ... the switched wire should be low control current....
the +12 V should also be low current since volt meters use high ohm shunt resistors

or
pull a tap from inside the headlight bucket...ig switch wires
Red is +12
orange is switched +12
black or grounded to frame for black wire

[John Bates]

I'd like to install a clock/thermometer/voltmeter.  It has a 3-wire lead for constant +12v, switched +12v and ground.  It has a very long wire, so I should be able to install it anywhere.  Can anyone suggest a good place, to achieve some neat splices?.

There should be two unused wires, with connectors, in the headlight bucket.

A brown wire which is switched 12V and a black-white wire which is grd.

The only place, that I know of,  to get unswitched 12V without, cutting wires, is at the battery terminal.

I could cut into the wires at the R/R pigtail (which is always hot) and taillight; then I would get fuse protection.

I could cut into the ignition wire inside the headlight housing, which would be fused, and a much shorter run of wire.  Anybody know which wire in there is always hot?


All of these suggestions would require cutting into two wires, which I'd prefer to avoid.  There are several unused spade connectors on the bike (2 in the headlight bucket, one by the R/R); anybody know if there are any +12v unused spade connectors?

The red wires are always hot, however, there is no way to get fuse protection unless you add an inline fuse just for the clock.

That reminds me, while I was looking for such an unused hot connector, I found a bundle of 3 wires that dead-ends just behind the battery.  At the end of the wires, is a female connector, filled with a 3-prong plug, wrapped in electrical tape.  There is a symbol on the  plug, which looks to me like the symbol for two diodes.  Anybody know what this three-prong plug is for?  Some kind of diode pack?

That is a package of two diodes that are part of the start ckt.

[Kerry]

I'd like to install a clock/thermometer/voltmeter.

Just now getting around to installing that clock that you "sold" us?

richard and I each bought one.  Mine is still in the package, but Richard came just over yesterday to "borrow" some connectors so he could install his ... which he did.

I haven't seen how he did it, but I know that one of his goals was to make it easy to remove.  He described his hookup method to me, but I wasn't in a position to capture all of the details.

Maybe you could send him an email and invite him to post a pic or two and a writeup...?

[Rema1000]

There should be two unused wires, with connectors, in the headlight bucket.

Great, I'll use those for 2 out of 3.

The red wires are always hot, however, there is no way to get fuse protection unless you add an inline fuse just for the clock.

Well, there's the main fuse, which I believe protects everything except the wire to the starter.  But you're right in that the clock uses some fine wires, which could vaporize before a 20A fuse popped, so the 20A fuse isn't really "protecting" a 20 ga. wire .

Just now getting around to installing that clock that you "sold" us?

Yep.  My SigmaSport finally ran out of juice, providing the added motivation.  I don't really need the digital speedo anymore (after using it for a year, I pretty well know how far off my mech speedo is).  Other motivation is that the new clock is readable when it's dark (just about all the time now ).   So "out with the old gadget, in with the new."

[Rema1000]

I finally got the clock/voltmeter/thermometer installed last night.  

I noticed that it was made for use inside a car (it has an "outside temp" and "inside temp" switch), and didn't look waterproof.  I called CASportTouring to ask about it's waterproofness.  They said it wasn't.  The guy I talked to said he'd had his on his bike for a year without problems; he rides in the rain, and parks outside (under an awning).  But he also said that some people had called in to say that theirs had problems in the rain.  It sounded to me like the unit was probably okay for recreational riding, and semi-protected parking; but probably not water-resistant enough for those who ride or leave their bike parked in heavy rain.

I decided to increase its water resistance.  I left the sticky screen protector in place.  I set the switches where I wanted them (clock, not stopwatch; 12-hr AM/PM, not 24-hr.; degrees F, not C) then I dabbed some DAP aquarium sealant over all the buttons and switches except the two buttons on the bottom used to set the clock.  The sealant is alot like clear bathroom caulk. I especially tried to seal the switches on the ends, and to fill the temp sensor hole on top with goop (I am using the remote temp sensor).

Once the goop was partially set, I peeled off the screen protector.  To my surprise, I can still work the buttons, even though they are covered by a thin layer of rubbery stuff.  But the only buttons I will probably use are the max/min temperature buttons.  If it was "probably" water resistant enough before, it should be just fine now.

[Rema1000]

Notes on electrical install:  I decided to connect the clock to wiring in the headlight shell.  There is a red wire which is always hot, which I needed to splice into.  There were two unused wires there: black (ground) and brown (hot when the ignition key is on).

I used a pair of small glass fuse holders from an Autozone for the hot and sometimes-hot wires.  The wire is thin, maybe #24 (!), so you would optimally have a fuse of 577mA or less.  Radio Shack has some 0.5A glass fuses.  A 3A fuse from the autoparts may work, but if there's a short in the wire, it may melt before the fuse pops.

I had some funny side-effects connecting the wiring this way:  when the bike is running and the blinkers are off (typical), then I get all 3 battery voltage lights lit (red, yellow, green).  When the turn signal is on, then the green LED goes out, and the red LED flashes in opposite pattern to the turn signal.  It's possible that the black "ground" wire inside the headlight bucket is actually using the turn signal as its path to ground.  So I do not recommend using the unused brown and black wires inside the headlamp bucket.  

I'm thinking of adding two fuse blocks back by the seat, under the bulge of the plastic tailpiece on the left-side (basically opposite the R/R).  I'd run both fuse panels off the battery directly, but one would be driven  from a relay off the tail-light circuit.  That would let me add electrics whether I wanted them on all the time, or only when the bike is running (or, like this clock, both).

Anybody know a source for a small 4-fuse panel?  Something about the size of an "Altoids Mini" box would be perfect!

[John Bates]

Notes on electrical install:  I decided to connect the clock to wiring in the headlight shell.  There is a red wire which is always hot, which I needed to splice into.  There were two unused wires there: black (ground) and brown (hot when the ignition key is on)...........

I had some funny side-effects connecting the wiring this way:  when the bike is running and the blinkers are off (typical), then I get all 3 battery voltage lights lit (red, yellow, green).

Rema, what do the red, yellow, green LEDs signify?

When the turn signal is on, then the green LED goes out, and the red LED flashes in opposite pattern to the turn signal.  It's possible that the black "ground" wire inside the headlight bucket is actually using the turn signal as its path to ground.

All the ckt diagrams I have seen show the black-white wire leading directly to ground.  This ground path is shared by other loads, including the turn signals (but there are no components IN the path).  Given solid ground connections and the proper wire size (in a perfect world), the other shared loads shouldn't have any effect on the LEDs.


BUT
When electricity is involved I guess one should never say "never" or "shouldn't".

If there is a poor connection in the path, then a very sensitive component (LED?) will see a voltage change on the ground side as other components (turn signals)  are turned on and off.  Incandescent bulbs draw a large current when turned on.  This could account for their strange behavior.

So I do not recommend using the unused brown and black wires inside the headlamp bucket.  

I think your recommendation is a good one when considering LEDs.

I'm thinking of adding two fuse blocks back by the seat, under the bulge of the plastic tailpiece on the left-side (basically opposite the R/R).  I'd run both fuse panels off the battery directly, but one would be driven  from a relay off the tail-light circuit.  That would let me add electrics whether I wanted them on all the time, or only when the bike is running (or, like this clock, both).

Anybody know a source for a small 4-fuse panel?  Something about the size of an "Altoids Mini" box would be perfect!

I don't know of anything like that but you could make one:

Find a small plastic box
Glue four fuse holders to the inside
Drill some holes and insert small rubber grommets for wire entrance

[Kerry]

I haven't even tried to install mine yet, but here's some additional info:

[John Bates]

[Rema1000]

Seems like the low end is a little too low and the high end a little too high

Yep.  The LEDs are pretty-much useless except for extreme problems.  I am just watching the digital voltmeter.    The odd thing about the flashing turn-signal, is that the yellow LED stays lit, but the red LED flashes in complement to the turn signal.  So when the red LED is off, the yellow LED is still on... definitely not the intended behavior.

One other funny thing: the voltmeter shows the voltage all the time, even when the bike is off.  So I can see that the battery has 12.7v when I park it, but is down to 12.2v when I come back the next morning (before I turn the ignition on).  Once I turn-on the headlight, voltage drops below 12v, and the unit starts beeping every 2 seconds (I can't seem to disable this).  Once the engine starts, then my voltage is back up to about 13.7v and the beeping stops.

[Kerry]

I finally got mine installed.  I'm pretty proud of the quick connect/disconnect idea I came up with.  Check it out at

http://www.bbburma.net/HowTo/TimeVoltageTempGauge_Install/[/list:u]

[gwolverine]

Thats a great set of instructions...  Too bad nothing for the 500f....  i just got the kit and am not sure where to start...

[RVertigo]

You may have to pull the fairings to run and hide the wires, but it should be the same basic idea...  It might be harder to get into the head-light housing though...

[gwolverine]

Any Ideas of where to get the power from?  I see a couple wires on the right to between the fairings and the body.  Three are also two wires that go to the smaller light underneath the main headlight...  (500f)

[John Bates]

Any Ideas of where to get the power from?  ..................  (500f)

According to my copy of an 04 wiring diagram:

If you can find an orange wire, it will be +12 V controlled by the ignition key switch. Look at the horn, the connectors for wiring to both handlebar ends, rear brake light switch and  turn signal relay.  You'll have to splice into one as there are no unused wires dangling like on some earlier models.

A red wire appears at the connector for the ignition switch and at the starter relay.  This is solid +12 direct from the battery & rectifier. If you tap in here or directly at the battery  + terminal you should use an inline fuse to protect the wiring.