Custom Gauges How-To

annguyen1981 · February 05, 2006, 07:10:39 PM

For those of you who haven't seen the Speedo and Tach Guage LED lights forum:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=23589.0

Here's a link to a site showing how to print your own custom design gauges. If anyone does complete this process, I ask that you make available the photoshop files of the scans for everyone to use
http://www.geocities.com/yeaulman/Gauges/Gauges.htm

Destro · February 05, 2006, 07:45:26 PM

The GS's gauges are sealed, with no way in. You would have to cut them open with a Dremel to change the faces.

annguyen1981 · February 05, 2006, 07:48:50 PM

According to this parts diagram, I'm afraid you're right.

GeeP · February 05, 2006, 08:19:01 PM

Starwalt was opening them by filing off the crimp and then gluing them back on with RTV.

What are you supposed to print the faces on? Overhead transparency? Mylar? Paper?

Alphamazing · February 05, 2006, 08:26:23 PM

Quote from: GeeP on February 05, 2006, 08:19:01 PM
Starwalt was opening them by filing off the crimp and then gluing them back on with RTV.

What are you supposed to print the faces on? Overhead transparency? Mylar? Paper?

Filing off the crimp, huh? That sounds like it could work... My guages have been unsealed due to my track crash. I undid the crimp and stuck the freshly glued tach assembly back in and am currently trying to redo the crimp...

Hmm... File it off and glue it... Sealed with somethin' or other... Hmm. Time to PM Starwalt.

that_guy · February 05, 2006, 08:27:23 PM

Quote from: GeeP on February 05, 2006, 08:19:01 PM
Starwalt was opening them by filing off the crimp and then gluing them back on with RTV.

What are you supposed to print the faces on? Overhead transparency? Mylar? Paper?

paper.

and yes they can be openend withought a ton of effort, and damn if this isn't a great idea. And I just so happen to have an extra set of gauges. I think if I get some spare time i just may make some of these.. Now If I could make my sad lil GS look that good that easily. :-(

that_guy · February 05, 2006, 08:28:51 PM

Quote from: AlphaFire X5 on February 05, 2006, 08:26:23 PM
Filing off the crimp, huh? That sounds like it could work... My guages have been unsealed due to my track crash. I undid the crimp and stuck the freshly glued tach assembly back in and am currently trying to redo the crimp...

Hmm... File it off and glue it... Sealed with somethin' or other... Hmm. Time to PM Starwalt.

seal it with either RTV or even better 5 minute epoxy. There is a few instruments that are sealed with epoxy in the helos I work on..

annguyen1981 · February 06, 2006, 06:00:06 AM

Definitely paper.

The first layer with the black blocks the light except where needed. This layer also allows the color of the light to be changed. The second layer with all your nice graphics is just for show

starwalt · February 06, 2006, 06:49:25 AM

Here's my reply to AlphaFire:

==============================================
I guess it depends on how much of the instrument housing is left. Not the bucket, but the white part of the instrument in question.

The way I get into the "clock" is by filing away the 90 degree edge of the crimped metal ring. I reattach by using black RTV on the ring stack. This will provide a splash reistant seal and still maintain a normal look. The foam cushion that sits between the instrument and the metal mount hides the back edge where the filing took place.

Here's a shot of me filing away the back edge. I made a rotating table to spin the silly thing.

After the 90 degree edge is cut through, the ring stack is now loose.

Now if you have the newer chrome rings, clear RTV would be the way to go.

In the next couple of months, I hope to get a domain and do some serious "How-To" pages for things like this. The 10MBytes of my account just ain't cutting it any more.

=========================================

I found a nifty program for making meter faces that I have been experimenting with. I did some trials with two types of Velum. The author of the program gave me a hand when I explained what I was doing and suggested color laser printing to resist moisture issues.

The GS clocks are not totally sealed, just splash resistant.

I also have been working on a technique for making new plexi-glass plates to replace the stock one. If you go the custom graphic route, the old painted plate is fine unless you want a glow affect. Knocking down the intensity at night is important to reduce the "deer in headlight" effect.

Hmmm...how about automatic night time dimming? How cool would that be?

Alphamazing · February 06, 2006, 09:04:41 AM

Quote from: starwalt on February 06, 2006, 06:49:25 AMHmmm...how about automatic night time dimming? How cool would that be?

A rotating dial that adjusted intensity would be cool as well, that way you could have it super bright at night if you were showing off your bike or something. Probably a bit easier too.

that_guy · February 06, 2006, 11:08:38 AM

Quote from: starwalt on February 06, 2006, 06:49:25 AM

Hmmm...how about automatic night time dimming? How cool would that be?

I can mail you a photocell from one of my helos if you want to try and make it work. I have a few new ones at work if I can find one you can have it and give it a shot. They are used in the birds to reduce intensity of some of the instruments at night times.

annguyen1981 · February 07, 2006, 10:32:50 PM

Starwalt - How long did it take you to file down the ring? I'm assuming that you took your time to get it right. Also, what program are you talking about for the custom gauges?

starwalt · February 11, 2006, 10:50:45 AM

Sorry about the delay. Work has had me totally slammed for the last couple of weeks.

Quote from: annguyen1981 on February 07, 2006, 10:32:50 PM
How long did it take you to file down the ring?

It went much quicker once I got on the cutting stroke of the file in sync with rotation of the gauge.

About 20 minutes max. It goes faster if the table is spinning faster. Too fast can toss the gauge across the bench.

Quote from: annguyen1981 on February 07, 2006, 10:32:50 PMAlso, what program are you talking about for the custom gauges?

Tonne Software program called "Meter" is the one. I read about it in Circuit Cellar Ink. The author, Jim Tonne basically gave me a template for the style like the GS. You have to trick the software into showing the numbers and tick marks the way the GS does. The software is designed for traditional electrical volt and amp meter displays, but it is able to adusted to display GS style.

Quote

starwalt · February 11, 2006, 10:54:26 AM

Quote from: that_guy on February 06, 2006, 11:08:38 AM
I can mail you a photocell from one of my helos if you want to try and make it work. I have a few new ones at work if I can find one you can have it and give it a shot.

That'd be neat. I have some photoresistors and if/when I tinker with this idea, the sensor would probably be under glass anyway. I have seen and used several light sensing circuits over the years. This idea would have to be nearly mil-spec considering the temp range and environment it would be used in.

If you round one up, shoot me an email/PM.

Cal Amari · February 11, 2006, 02:17:05 PM

Another method for opening and modifying your gauges:

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_inside_gauges.htm

I've never done it myself, but I've been tempted...

The writer states that he re-sealed the gauge with epoxy, using electrical tape to hold everything together while the epoxy dried, which seems logical to me. If you have a Dremel and a drill press (starwalt?... Bob Broussard?... dgyver?... Bueller?... Bueller?...), you might want to try this method...

If anyone in this forum actually decides to do this, please post CLEAR photos of the steps, and the results...

starwalt · February 11, 2006, 07:09:29 PM

Quote from: Cal Amari on February 11, 2006, 02:17:05 PM
Another method for opening and modifying your gauges:

Yeah, I saw that method and don't really care for it. It is easier to get a splash resistant seal around the edge of the clock than try to reglue/tape the entire housing.

Regardless, getting into them is invasive and requires the moxy to just do it. If the clock is totally barfed up internally, I guess it really doesn't matter how you get in there.

And yes, those photos are really bad and blurry.

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Custom Gauges How-To