Replacing a broken bolt in the oil filter cap

[brett]

So I guess you can count me amongst the many, the not-so-proud, the bolt overtighteners. I changed my oil today, overtightened one of the bolts, and it snapped off at the cap. There should be plenty of bolt left for me to get it out just fine, but I've got a few questions about replacing it. First, it is the top left bolt (if you are looking at the bike head-on), not the bottom bolt. It appears that no oil is leaking, so is it OK to ride in the meantime? Second, if I change it soon, is there any reason why I shouldn't be able to drain the oil beforehand and then put the same oil back in? I would rather not buy 3 more quarts right away.

[GSinUS]

Don't warry Brett, I was in the same situation (check out http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=23941.msg244997#msg244997) recently.  The good news is that if you have enough of the stud sticking out to get it out the replacement is easy.  You just have to wait for the part to come in (if like I you are ordering the OEm replacement for it).

I wouldn't ride without it because these studs seem to get very soft when hot, and I would be afraid of the spring pushing the cover far enough for the oil to leak through and possibly get under the rear tire.  When you take the cover off to replace the bold, you don't need to drain the oil out.  Some of it will come out from the filter compartment, but that's about 1/3 of a quart.  Not too bad.

Good luck

[RVertigo]

Welcome to the club buddy!!!   

Ok...  You don't want to ride with the bolt missing...  When the bike it running, the oil pressure will increase and most likely cause the leak to worsen.  If you run out of oil, you're screwed!

So...  If you can get to a Moto-shop, call around and find the replacement bolt (pick up a couple, 'cause they're cheap and you never know when you'll need um)...  Pick up the replacements (and an extra quart of oil), clear an hour of your day, and grab your tools...

1. Put the GS on the center-stand
2. Put an oil basin under the oil-filter-cover
3. Take the other two bolts
4. Let the oil drain out
5. Extract the broken stud using one of the many methods (two nuts, vice-grips, etc)
6. Replace the broken stud
7. Replace the filter (if needed) and the cover
8. Put the nuts on until they're all

hand tight, then tighten them just a little past that point...  There's a rubber seal in there for a reason.
9. Check the oil level (shouldn't be very low at all)
10.  Start the bike and watch for leaks coming from the oil filter cover...  If you have leaks, DON'T tighten the nuts a bunch...  Chances are the rubber gasket is not seated right.  Stop the motor, pull off the cover, and make sure the gasket is seated...
11.  Once you have no leaks, shut off the motor. Give the oil a second to settle and check the oil level again[/list]



OK...  TMI... But, whatever.   

[Trwhouse]

Hi there,
This seems to be a common problem lately, there have been other recent posts about it.
It is a good reminder to use a torque wrench for the nuts, and torque them properly to 60 INCH-POUNDS, which is equal to 5 foot-pounds. Since 5 foot pounds barely moves a 0-75 foot-pounds torque wrench, I recommend using an inch-pounds torque wrench, which offers much more control for low torque settings. I have several Sears Craftsman clicker torque wrenches, including 0-600 INCH-POUNDS model and a 0-75 foot pounds model.
It doesn't take much at all to properly tighten the oil filter nuts, as you have learned, so a torque wrench makes it worry-free.
Good luck with your stud replacement.
yours,
Todd

[sledge]

Seems this is a common problem, I think people tend to overtighten them in the belief it will prevent oil leaking from between the faces. In actual fact there is a O ring behind the cover which if its in good order will prevent any leaks. In fact the OEM Suzuki filter includes a replacement seal in the box along with the filter. I guess if people are concerned about snapping the studs they could replace them with items made from hi-tensile steel.

[RVertigo]

There was a guy that broke his bolt torquing them to that setting...

That rubber seal does a good job if you ask me.

[brett]

The torque wrench seems like a good idea, but after searching Sears' site, I could only find this $160 wrench.

As for the bolt, I found it on Ron Ayers' fiche as a 6 x 20 stud bolt. Do I need to pick it up from a dealer, or is it a pretty standard part that I can find. Also, can someone explain this two nut method of removing/replacing the bolt? From what I gather, I screw them on so they are tight against each other then hold one in place while I screw the other one to pull the bolt out.

[RVertigo]

Yeah...  You can find that stud at a Suzi dealer (online or B&M)...  Possible other dealers...

You got the two-nut thing.   

[Wrecent_Wryder]

f3

[Cal Price]

The frequency that this comes up really P***** me off, the handbook on my creaking 1981 Yamaha actually gives a torque setting,      why-Oh-why couldn't Suzuki do that ?

I have a very handly little tourque-driver that would probably be ideal if only ........

[Trwhouse]

Hi Cal et al,
I agree, Suzuki didn't put a specific torque figure in their shop manual for the oil filter nuts, but whenever a manual lacks a specific torque, there are charts you can use to determine the proper torque based on the size of the bolt or nut. In fact, Suzuki has such a torque chart -- by fastener size -- in the back of the GS500E factory shop manual in Section 7-29.
That's where I found the torque figure of 5 foot pounds (60 INCH POUNDS) that I have been using successfully since I bought my GS500E 13 years ago.
And to the earlier post about finding a Craftsman torque wrench that reads 0-600 inch-pounds, they may not list it on their Web site, but it is available in the Sears stores. Sears doesn't list everything they sell in their stores on their online site, apparently. The wrench can usually be gound on sale for about $50-60 at Sears.
Best wishes,
Todd

[Cal Amari]

FWIW, here's a link to a Craftsman 3/8 inch Drive Torque Wrench which measures in INCH-POUNDS, with a range from 25 to 250 in.-lbs. in 1 in.-lb. increments:

http://tinyurl.com/c8atb

Gotta love Tinyurl.com for shrinking long URLs down to size...

Though I own the model mentioned by Trwhouse (which reads from 0-600 in.-lbs.), I also own this wrench and prefer it over the older 0-600 in.-lbs. wrench. This model measures a shorter range of torque settings (25 - 250 in.-lbs.), and that might make it more precise over the measured range, though I've never had either wrench re-calibrated or tested for accuracy, so I can't be sure.

That being said, I stopped using the torque wrench when doing oil changes on my GS after the first three or four oil changes; I never felt it was really needed, and used it more out of paranoia than for any other reason. I've seen so many people strip, break, or otherwise damage the oil cover studs because they overtighten them, that I never wanted to make the same mistake. The rule of thumb is that the smaller the fastener, the less torque required, and several Suzuki models use the same oil cover plate and studs. Nowadays, I simply use a nut-driver to tighten the acorn nuts... as long as you get a good seal with the o-ring, no oil will leak, and no torque wrench is required.

[Cal Price]

Thanks for that Trwhouse, I have made a note in my user manual. One of the members once posted a general tourque chart for small bolts but I could never find it, thanks again.

[Trwhouse]

Hi again Cal,
Hey, where in the country do you live?
Any chance you are in PA?
I was thinking we could get together for a ride sometime.
Best wishes,
Todd

[Cal Amari]

Thanks for that Trwhouse, I have made a note in my user manual. One of the members once posted a general tourque chart for small bolts but I could never find it, thanks again.

He's referring to you, Cal...  so I'll let you tell him how far it is from your place to Lancaster, PA, USA...

[sledge]

All the info you will ever need relating to nuts bolts and thread forms can be found here.

http://www.fullermetric.com/technical/index.html

[Cal Price]

It would be an interesting ride, bit wet probably, accross the Atlantic from the bottom right hand corner of England. If ever my motorcycle travels take me to the US this board will know, i have been toying with the idea of the czech republic or maybe as far as Hungary or Romania this summer....who knows...

[Cal Price]

Thanks Sledge.

Hey, Cal Amari, squid, thats a bloody brilliant pun. (I Hope!)

[brett]

Just to update, I was able to get the old bolt out (finally!) and from there everything was pretty simple. It appears to be leak-free. After finishing the oil change and lubing/tightening the drive chain, the bike is riding absolutely amazing. Thanks for the help.

PS - Getting the old bolt out with vice grips was the only thing that worked eventually, but damn was that tough. I didn't feel like taking the pipes off, so it was clamp, turn 1/10 of a turn, unclamp, repeat.

[Cal Amari]

Thanks Sledge.

Hey, Cal Amari, squid, thats a bloody brilliant pun. (I Hope!)

Thanks, Cal; I'm actually a notorious squid-hater... won't eat squid, won't ride with squid... I don't even associate with the squidettes I sometimes encounter... I prefer the quiet, brainy, bookish type of woman. I pay no attention to the vapor-locked attention-whores, regardless of gender... I guess you could say I choose to live in a squid-free zone...