chain tension adjustment

[scratch]

While on chain tension and wheel alignment...when I first get a chain drive bike I always check the wheel alignment against the chain adjust graduations this way...

Gun Sight Method
WHILE ON THE CENTER STAND: Remove the chain guard and get your head in the rear wheel well looking down on the chain. Look down through a top link in the chain, look for a forward tooth on the rear sprocket, now look through farther for a link at the bottom of the chain. NOW similar to a gun sight, in your line of sight align the bottom link squarely inside the top link. If correct a forward tooth on the sprocket will be in the exact middle of the top and bottom links. If not adjust it to so the forward tooth of the rear sprocket is in the middle REGARDLESS of what the swing arm graduations say.

It may take a couple of tries to get it right, but it actually works quite well!   

THIS METHOD I WOULD DEFINITELY CONDONE FOR CHAIN ALIGNMENT.

For chain slack - By all means, go by the manual for what is the suggested chain slack adjustment method, whether it's center stand or side stand, for warranty reasons.

Another one of the reasons for adjusting chain slack on the sidestand is that the suspension is under load, making the bike squat, and putting the swingarm closer to it's LONGEST extension thru the arc of travel.  Thereby avoiding having the chain too tight, as it will pull on the countershaft and ruin the countershaft seal, which may need to have the cases split to replace (I'd rather replace chain and sprockets, than split the engine cases).  Also, note that the bike squats more when you sit on it, tightening the chain, and even more while your riding it.  I've always adjusted my chain between the manufacturer's suggested 7/8" and 1 1/8ths inches.

[scratch]

Awsome, I'll keep an eye out for that method, I'm sure it'll help.
I don;t know how I'll get so accurate, but I find loosening the axle nut only to the necessary point for the wheel to move...is only necessary to make the adjustments....when it too loose and come back to tighten...you almost lose all the work you did and goes out of alignment for some reason..I really hate that

It's true, that when you tighten the axle nut, it pinches the arms together LENGTHENING the swingarm, and tightening up your chain more.  This is why it's best to tighten in very small increments (I do 1/12th turns, which is easy to do with a 6-sided adjuster nut).  And, to tighten the axle nut to check slack before putting in the cotter pin in.

[Suzuki Stevo]

THIS METHOD I WOULD DEFINITELY CONDONE.

By all means, go by the manual for what is the suggested chain slack adjustment method, whether it's center stand or side stand, for warranty reasons.

Another one of the reasons for adjusting chain slack on the sidestand is that the suspension is under load, making the bike squat, and putting the swingarm closer to it's LONGEST extension thru the arc of travel.  Thereby avoiding having the chain too tight, as it will pull on the countershaft and ruin the countershaft seal, which may need to have the cases split to replace (I'd rather replace chain and sprockets, than split the engine cases).  Also, note that the bike squats more when you sit on it, tightening the chain, and even more while your riding it.  I've always adjusted my chain between the manufacturer's suggested 7/8" and 1 1/8ths inches.

My method is for rough wheel alignment not chain adjustment...read the post closer next time

[scratch]

Ah, I was going off topic.  Shall I seperate the responses?

Edited previous post for clarity

[Suzuki Stevo]

Ah, I was going off topic.  Shall I seperate the responses?

No...I think we have pretty much ran chain adjusting into the ground 

EDIT: What I was getting at in the Gun Sight Alignment post was just because your swing arm graduation or snail adjuster says line #4 or snail notch #4, DO NOT assume that because your on the same location on both sides of the swing arm that the graduations are correct. MOST of the time they are but I have run into many occasions over the years where they where TOTALLY WRONG even on a brand new bike. (One of many examples) I had a brand new 1980 XR200R come into the shop one day for service and to get the rear wheel to align I had to bump one snail adjuster two notches farther than the other side. NEVER assume that your graduations are correct...I trust the Gun Sight Method more than any mark on any swing arm from any manufacture, and you can take that bit of advice to the bank   

[vorBH]

Well I just readjusted it on the CC and the midpoint slack on the chain is about 1.3-1.5 inches....I made it a little more slack because when I put it down on the kickstand it gets approx. tighter to the recommendation 1 1/8 inches...and obviously when I sit on it, gets more tight.....was too tight before when I sat on it (like .3 inches slack), now when I'm sitting on it...the midpoint slack on the chain is about .5 or .75 inches (I think)...I'm more comfortable with this 'looseness'....don't want a tight chain...like stated, that'll take a toll on your engine components and chain itself
appreciate your help guys....hope you can help me out in the other thread concerning my rear brake/caliper problem

[sledge]

Chain tension? why all the worries and "must do it this way" comments...its a ballpark figure with a tolerance. CS or  SS? I have found it makes no difference whatsoever. You can argue that on the SS you have the weight of the bike on the swingarm but so what....as soon as you get on it its going to compress and what if you weigh 18st or ride 2-up? its going to compress more than it would if you were 10st. The tension at rest will vary dependant on the weight of the rider/s......its going to alter as soon as you sit on it so why make a fuss of it all. If the manual said always adjust the chain with a weight of 150lb on the seat I could see the point but it doesnt.

An overtightened chain might damage the output seal, even the cases but way before that happens it will have to wear the bearing behind it out to allow the shaft to pull back and thats assuming the chain doesnt slacken itself off due to wear on the pins and rollers or snap before this happens. If you have ever ridden with an overtightened chain its pretty obvious from the start that something is wrong. and if you dont investigate it immediately before something does get damaged you deserve everything you get.

As for wheel alignment, well if you want to make it overly complicated with bits of string and sticks with marks on its up to you. I can do it by eye and get it within the tolerances required by UK MOT standards and the very expensive laser alignment equipment they use to check it.....so if I can do it so can anybody else.

[vorBH]

Exactly

Thats why I had to loosen it more...definitely did not want a tight chain! Sounds scary as it is

[Suzuki Stevo]

Exactly

Thats why I had to loosen it more...definitely did not want a tight chain! Sounds scary as it is

You are correct, always error to the safe side 

2 pages on chain adjust...you would think it was an Oil Thread 

[icabodcam]

I know that this is an old post, but wow... I checked the manuals for my Suzuki, and one each for my old Kawasaki, and Yamaha, all of which had center stands, and all these manuals said use the center stand.  I've been dealing with grinding now for about 3 weeks, without being able to correct it.  I've checked everything.  Just went out and plopped my bike over on the side stand repeated my tensioning steps, and sure enough the grind is gone.

The only noise I have left is the chain gently rubbing on the foot  of the center stand, which started happening once I changed my shock for a kat number. 

Good thread.

Baffled, but relieved,
Icabod