The consensus is that stock front springs suck, right?

[Queso]

I want to replace mine, I just have no clue about how to go about doing it. I bottomed out on a slight dip going only about 25...

[Alphamazing]

I want to replace mine, I just have no clue about how to go about doing it. I bottomed out on a slight dip going only about 25...

Here ya go. From the FAQ:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=25706.0

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

[Egaeus]

Now if we just had a fork seal replacement howto, we'd be set.  Maybe I'll have to do one....

By the way, my forks had a couple of rust spots on the exposed, cosmetic part (not in the functional area or anything).  I was able to successfully remove the rust with aluminum foil.  It didn't scratch up the forks like sandpaper would, and did a damn good job of cleaning off the rust.  The chrome still has pits, but hopefully with an occasional rubdown with an oil-soaked cloth I can prevent the rust from reforming.  Maybe this info will be helpful to someone who wants shiny forks.

[galahs]

Now if we just had a fork seal replacement howto, we'd be set.  Maybe I'll have to do one....

FORK SEALS

Doing fork seals is a breeze, get the parts, and fresh fork oil, some like 15w, I like 20w.  Now - a quick and simple way to fork seals.

* I use airtools to make my life easier, not everyone has them or can get to them but you can still do the job with hand tools.

Get the front wheel off the ground (I set mine up High with jackstands), pull wheel, pull caliper and let hang to side, unbolt fender.

While tubes are still in clamps, use rachet with allen socket or air impact wrench (dialed down) if you got it with allen socket and blip it to break the bolt loose almost to the point of coming out.

Get a bucket or old butter bowl and place it under the fork you're working on (keep it there).  Finish pulling the bolt and let the oil drain.

Now you can either loosen the clamps and drop the tubes out and work at a vice (use wood in the jaws so you dont scratch the tubes) or if you set the bike up HIGH do them on the bike. either way the top tubes must be secured solidly in place.

Gently pry up the dust cover that sits over the seals, there is a spring clip that holds the seal in place under the dust cover.  Once clip is removed, take a 1/2" drive ratchet and pull the top caps.  The idea is to NOW unload the springs.  (Remember that butter bowl?  Is it still in place?  Should be.)

Once caps are removed more oil WILL come out.  (Remember any spacers/washers that come out -- they must go back in.)  Pull springs if you like.

Now being as the tube is still secured in Vice or fork clamps, compress the lower tube and give a quick yank to separate the upper and lower, the seal will come out, you will see the Valve that the little allen bolt was holding, those spin when you try to break loose by hand, you get nowhere.

Clean everything up.  If changing dust boot, do it now.  Slide new lubed seal over tube, make sure bushing (if it came out) is back in place, with washer that sits over that but under the seal.  Slide tubes back together making sure the seal is seated, reinstall that clip and dust boot.  Now, recompress the spring and thread top cap back on tight (only need few threads), put allen bolt back in the bottom and blip it tight (be gentle ok, you're not gun man on a pit crew)

Pop top cap and dump in your measured amount of oil.  Replace top cap and tighten.  At this point you can reinstall the fork on the bike (unless you did it on the bike like me) and do the same for the other fork.  Even if only one is leaking, do both at same time.  You already have the oil, seals come as a pair, it only makes sense.

If you dont like my method, that's cool, just follow the book.  I have had both forks DONE and reinsalled running down the road inside 45 mins.  Either way - if you think you can, do it yourself.  Shops want 60$ per fork leg to do it, not including parts.  Seals run about 14$.


Note: Just for clarification: the bolts spoken of are located at the bottom of each fork leg.

Also, before you slide the new seal on, place a plastic bag (like a sandwich bag) over the top of the fork tube and smear some fork oil over the bag, this will help protect the seal from the sharp edges of the fork tubes.

[Egaeus]

Cool.  So the springs do put enough force on it to undo the bottom allen bolt by hand?  I don't think I had the springs in.  Definitely a problem.  I'll probably still wait, since I have it back together for the most part, but thanks for the info.

[MarkusN]

Cool. So the springs do put enough force on it to undo the bottom allen bolt by hand? I don't think I had the springs in. Definitely a problem. I'll probably still wait, since I have it back together for the most part, but thanks for the info.

Not necessarily. Those bolts have thread lock on them. With impact tools you get them loose, but without the proper tool to hold the damper rod it gets difficult with hand tools. you can ipmrovise a tool with a threaded bar and two countered nuts, though. (Or you can squeeze the right size of bolt (for the hex head) in a piece of tube.)

I have heard that the newer Fs don't have the allen socket in the damper rod anymore. Must be a major pain in the neck to get them out without the special Suzuki tool.

[Egaeus]

Okay, so I got the allen bolt out now that I have an impact wrench.  So now how do I remove the snap ring that's under the dust cover?  It won't come out. 

[Kerry]

That ring is just a length of bent wire (not a continuous loop).  Find the split, and use a small-bladed flathead screwdriver to hook one of the "indents" on either side of it (the split).  With one of the ends levered out, you can grab the ring and pull the rest of it out easily.

[Egaeus]

Yeah, that's the problem I'm having.  I can't find the end.  I've levered on all of the indents, and not an end in sight.  It seems to be under the fork seal.  Is that how it's supposed to be, or is that why my seals are leaking?

[Kerry]

The split ring is UNDER the fork seal?  Gulp!

EDIT: I can't fathom how the dust seal could fit in that scenario.  Maybe you meant that the split ends of the retaining ring seem to be lower than the top surface of the fork seal?  (The ring is embedded in the rubber, maybe?)

[Egaeus]

Yeah, that's what I meant.  I finally got it out.  However, it's no longer serviceable (i.e. all bent to $#!+).  Hopefully I can find something locally that will work.  It's not really a rare part, just a question of finding someone who has one.

Next question is how do I get the metal slide that's under the fork seal back down into its place, and then get the new fork seal back into its place without damage.  I usually drive oil seals with an appropriately sized socket and mallet, but it won't work in this case. 

Edit: did I mention that I left my manual in Florida? 

[werase643]

i got a 2-3 ft section of PVC pipe from lowes....1.46 = 37 mm
therefore i got 1.5 ID tube and cut a slit about 8 inches up and use a hose clamp to get it close to 37.5mm id then slide it on over the seal

[Kerry]

Same here, except my PVC pipe seems to work without the slit. 

Here it is, serving as a garage for my "damper bolt loosener / tightener tool".



(Read several posts starting HERE for two versions of the tool.)

[werase643]

Kerry,
i'm glad you are back, even if it is only once in a while

[Egaeus]

I ended up using a brass punch.  It took a while and a gentle hand, but it seems to be on okay.  I even got the C clip bent back into something resembling its original shape and it seems to be working.  I'll fill them up with oil tomorrow and see what happens. 

[galahs]

Kerry has a new avatar!

[Kerry]

Kerry has a new avatar!

Yeah ... for 2 or 3 days now. 

I plan to switch it up every couple weeks if I remember.  Stay tuned!