Need specifics with rear wheel alignment...

[3imo]

To each his own I guess.

I suggest practice.  try not to overcomplicate the job.  and practice.   Don't just get it right and move on.  redo it a time or two.  if not you'll be relearning the next few thousand miles.

[Turd Ferguson]

Sorry 3imo but I just don't agree.  The chain adjustment set up is "good enough" for most, but I'm a perfectionist and I want my rear wheel aligned perfectly.  In my situation, it is even more critical as I only have about 3/16" room on either side of my 160/60 rear tire.  I don't doubt one bit that the dealership monkeys are okay with the alignment marks, but I preffer to have it perfect.  Don't get me wrong, measuring to the center of the axle bolt doesn't add 30 or even 20 minutes to the installation of the rear wheel.  It only takes me 5 minutes to get the wheel in, but once its in, I know it is aligned perfectly.  

-Turd.

[3imo]

Well, lets agree to disagree. 

I wouldn't say all but most dealer ship monkeys are trained professional,  but then again so are cops and doctors...how many guys get beat or die in the hospital.

To each his own.  Perfectionist or not.  I do it "good enough"  and haven't had any issues. 

come on... I'll buy you a beer

[baco99]

i really wish i could watch someone do this before attempting it myself.

[corndog67]

I stand the bike straight up and down, with all the weight on the suspension, leaning up against the wall or with someone holding it.  If the axle is slightly snug, all the slop in the axle/chain adjuster brackets will be pulled one way, taking up the slack.  When the bike is sitting with all the weight on the suspension, the swingarm, countershaft sprocket and rear sprocket will be pretty much in line.  The tightest place in the chain adjustment.  I've seen race shop mechanics lay on the ground behind the bike, with someone holding the bike straight up and down, to check the alignment.  I think they sight along the wheel on each side. 

[Yankee Punker]

  I go along with what scratch said, but my 2 cents is that I usually notice my rear wheel is out of alignment when the rear break squeals still after the pads and rotor have more than well warmed up, and I've played around the chain slack a bit and I found 8/10"--9/10" make shifting so smooth and easy!   But some times you just have to do what works best for you, once you figure it out then do it a 1,000 more times, then your a pro!!!!

[veeref]

  I go along with what scratch said, but my 2 cents is that I usually notice my rear wheel is out of alignment when the rear break squeals still after the pads and rotor have more than well warmed up, and I've played around the chain slack a bit and I found 8/10"--9/10" make shifting so smooth and easy!   But some times you just have to do what works best for you, once you figure it out then do it a 1,000 more times, then your a pro!!!!

I noticed that if I keep the chain tension on the tighter end of the limits, that it shifts a lot smoother as well.  To answer my original question, I ended up measuring from the center of the rear axle bolt to the center of the rear swingarm pivot.  Works pretty well for me.  Got rid of my rear brake squeal as well.