News:

Registration Issues: email manjul.bose at gmail for support - seems there is a issue that we're still trying to fix

Main Menu

Newb brake question

Started by hopelessmechanic, May 04, 2006, 06:19:39 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

hopelessmechanic

I put on the bottle and the tube and got a little fluid in the tube(couple drops).  The fluid in the tube goes up when I squeeze the brake lever and bake down when I release the brake lever.  There are no air bubbles or anything is suggesting that I would be bleeding the air out.  No matter how many times I pump that bubble just goes up and down in the same place.
im a hopeless trying to be mechanic on the weekends

LimaXray

maybe 3imo is off his rocker   :laugh: :laugh:

try opening the bleeder, squeezing the brake, closing the bleader, then releasing the brake. do that a whole bunch of times and see if that helps
'05 GS500 : RU-2970 Lunchbox : V&H Exhaust : 20/65/145 : 15T : LED Dash : Sonic Springs : Braided Front Brake Line : E conversion with Buell Dual Headlight : SW-Motech Engine Gaurds ...

3imo

I am sure. very sure.

when you were watching that bubble, did you notice that it DID NOT move more than an inch one way or the other?

you have to under stand the system.  it is a hydraulic system.  

in your case a COMPLETELY DRY hydraulic system.  it is full of air bubbles.   This problem that your having is the reason why no book will ever tell you to drain the system Then put in your fluids.
every book will say to "flush" the old fluid with new fluid on top.  AND warn you about not letting the reservior to suck air.

this has happened to me everytime I have drained brakes completely. everytime.

keep pumping it will work and it will take time.  you tested your reservior and confirmed the pump works.


If you can't let go of the idea that the air is being sucked in....then just get a long hose, place it over your bleeder fitting and suck on it. keep the pressure and pump.
Not the brightest crayon in the box, but I can still be seen from a distance.  ;P
QuoteOpinions abound. Where opinions abound, mouths, like tachometers, often hit redline. - STARWALT

Jarrett you ignorant my mama...

3imo

Quote from: hopelessmechanic on May 04, 2006, 09:37:04 AM
I don't know what to do.  I just used 3imo's method and I pumped for a solid 25 minutes tightening the bleeder holding down the lever opening the bleeder to let the air out, closing the bleeder and pumping some more.  The brake fluid did not move from the line inside the brake resevoir.  Wow this is a lot of work  :flipoff: take that brake system!

Sure... go ahead and try it again.  but wadda I know  :dunno_white:

maybe it will work the 2nd time around.   :icon_rolleyes:  ( I am being sarcastic)

**how do I get back on my rocker?  :icon_confused:
Not the brightest crayon in the box, but I can still be seen from a distance.  ;P
QuoteOpinions abound. Where opinions abound, mouths, like tachometers, often hit redline. - STARWALT

Jarrett you ignorant my mama...

3imo

ok, I outta here for the day.

Good luck.   :thumb:

and please don't rebuild your brakes. they are fine.
Not the brightest crayon in the box, but I can still be seen from a distance.  ;P
QuoteOpinions abound. Where opinions abound, mouths, like tachometers, often hit redline. - STARWALT

Jarrett you ignorant my mama...

MarkusN

3imo, his problem is that the large amount of air in the system is so elastic that it does not build enough vacuum to open the check valve in the cylinder. Thus the fluid is just pumped back and forth.

HLM, first change your nick, it spells bad luck ;)

Seriously, look here. The text is in German, but the pictures give you an idea how you can fill the system from the bottom by gravity.

LimaXray

#26
Quote from: 3imo on May 04, 2006, 11:05:19 AM
Quote from: hopelessmechanic on May 04, 2006, 09:37:04 AM
I don't know what to do.  I just used 3imo's method and I pumped for a solid 25 minutes tightening the bleeder holding down the lever opening the bleeder to let the air out, closing the bleeder and pumping some more.  The brake fluid did not move from the line inside the brake resevoir.  Wow this is a lot of work  :flipoff: take that brake system!

Sure... go ahead and try it again.  but wadda I know  :dunno_white:

maybe it will work the 2nd time around.   :icon_rolleyes:  ( I am being sarcastic)

**how do I get back on my rocker?  :icon_confused:

oh I didn't see that one... maybe I'm off my rocker  :laugh: :laugh:

But wait what he said sounds backwards... is he saying hes closing the bleeder, squeezing, then opening? shouldn't it be the other way around? ie opening, squeezing, closing, releasing?

I do see what you are saying 3imo and you're probably right. The more I think about it, I don't think I've ever totally drained a brake system before because I know you're not supposed to, so I wouldn't know.

and yeah if you can get the fluid to go up and down the hose, your master cylinder is fine.

edit: I would still say try a hand pump brake bleeder if all else fails, they sell them at Sears
'05 GS500 : RU-2970 Lunchbox : V&H Exhaust : 20/65/145 : 15T : LED Dash : Sonic Springs : Braided Front Brake Line : E conversion with Buell Dual Headlight : SW-Motech Engine Gaurds ...

hopelessmechanic

Giving up for today I'm going to go buy that thing at sears and hope that takes care of the problem.  I still got a lot of bike to fix so trust me you'll be hearing from me again.  Everybody that has helped so far, thank you and hopefully I'll be able to pass on the information that I retain from this project like you guys are passing it to me.  :cheers:
im a hopeless trying to be mechanic on the weekends

3imo

Quote from: MarkusN on May 04, 2006, 11:16:38 AM
3imo, his problem is that the large amount of air in the system is so elastic that it does not build enough vacuum to open the check valve in the cylinder. Thus the fluid is just pumped back and forth.


cool.  then sucking on the line as you pump will work.

I've always just pumped away, it takes a long time but always worked. 

ok... now I'm really gone.
Not the brightest crayon in the box, but I can still be seen from a distance.  ;P
QuoteOpinions abound. Where opinions abound, mouths, like tachometers, often hit redline. - STARWALT

Jarrett you ignorant my mama...

Wrecent_Wryder

#29
[f
"On hiatus" in reaction to out-of-control moderators, thread censorship and member bans, 7/31/07.
Your cure is worse than the disease.
Remember, no one HAS to contribute here.

3imo

OK..... If I had my camera working I'd have pics.

Last night as I was steadily chopping away in my diabloical GS CHOP SHOP,  I decided to completely drain the front brakes.  and see for sure.

after completely draining the fluid... I poured brand new brake fluid in the reservior.

I sucked on the tube attached to the bleeder screw,  as I was pumping the brake, and it worked.  I had all new brake fluid in like ten minutes flat. 

which IMO means MarkusN is correct.  :cheers:
Not the brightest crayon in the box, but I can still be seen from a distance.  ;P
QuoteOpinions abound. Where opinions abound, mouths, like tachometers, often hit redline. - STARWALT

Jarrett you ignorant my mama...

hopelessmechanic

I went out and bought a 60cc sirenge and a tube attatched it to the bleeder screw and within 120cc's of air being sucked out they pumped like champs.  Everything is working great but is it normal to have a little rubbing on the pads when they are new?  Thank you everybody who helped me on this and their will be more to come.  Again THANK YOU  :thumb:
im a hopeless trying to be mechanic on the weekends

3imo

rubbing normal, actually always.  it sounds rougher with new pads cause they havent worn to match the rotors.

for cars I just do a bit of hard braking for a day or two and the sqealin/rubbing sound goes away.

on my bikes I use brake pad silencer gel from advanced auto.  no noise no prob.

glad it worked out for you :cheers:
Not the brightest crayon in the box, but I can still be seen from a distance.  ;P
QuoteOpinions abound. Where opinions abound, mouths, like tachometers, often hit redline. - STARWALT

Jarrett you ignorant my mama...

mbbikes2005

what you need to do is disconnect the brake pipe from the caliper and put that end into the resivoir. pump the brake till all air outa pipe then reconnect to caliper but try not to lose to much fluid. then run a bit of tube into a coffee jar half filled wit fluid. make sure tube is submersed. open bleed nipple, pump lever till all air outa caliper then close nipple. you should now have a good brake. ive found this is the only method that works. it was the great joey dunlop that told me this method. hope this helps

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk