Is it a good look?

[EMTkid]

i've got it all out on paper -  a pattern mocked up and still trying to work out the underside attachment, but it is definitely my current project obsession. I figure it'll just be a sandwich on type deal. Anyone know the best source for fiberglass/resin? The local weekend-warrior warehouses looked at me funny when I asked for it.

[natedawg120]

I think you should not pu the stipes on the side.  Maybe try a bigger angular design that covers the top and continues onto the sides a little.  It looks a little weird with the tail section already having the decals on it.  I like the mock up though, might even be interested in trying it myself, once you get it done throw us some pics

[EMTkid]

I'll definitely get the GFs digital cam out when i'm working on it. I'm not sure about the stripe either, but it looks a bit strange just being flat. I've thought about all sorts of angular stuff, but it ends up looking a lot more like the Kawasaki z1000 without an angular front to match. I'll continue to play with it though. The banana seat is the hardest part to overcome. I'll try and update as this weekend has some time blocked for this project specifically.

[Absolute Rescue]

Looks good, keep us updated on the progress. If it works out well I might give it a shot as well

[natedawg120]

This doesn't look that great either but this shows better what i was trying to say.  Something that goes over the center and is visable from the sides.

[RVertigo]

I like the shape...  I hate the graphics...

Make one and sell it to me for cheap...  Thanks.

[Chuck]

I've gotten fiberglass and resin at the local Home Depot, and also Auto Zone.  You could probably get it from any hardware or auto store.

[FearedGS500]

if you get one mad i want to see a finshed product if i like i will buy

[scratch]

The underseat attachment can be done without hardware.  Simply mold hooks onto the bottom edges that curl under the seat.  To put it on, or take it off, you have to take off the seat to slide it on from the back.

[Phaedrus]

I like the shape...  I hate the graphics...

Make one and sell it to me for cheap...  Thanks.

+1. I'd be interested in either buying an affordable one, or some basic directions on how to make one. It would be cool to see a step by step w/photos HOWTO on it. 

[RVertigo]

or some basic directions on how to make one. It would be cool to see a step by step w/photos HOWTO on it. 

Then YOU can make me one.   

[TragicImage]

www.fiberglast.com

[TragicImage]

DO NOT get "E-Glass".... its horrible horrible horrible.

[GeeP]

That's a good first project as long as you keep the shapes simple and flowing.  Avoid deep corners, tight bends, and sharp angles.

I think your concept looks interesting.  Don't worry about the graphics, concentrate on the shape.  Graphics will come later.  (I do like the idea of a longitudinal lightning stripe per natedawg.)

Make sure to consider the shape from both the side view and the rear view.  Try taking some digital photos of your bike from the side and back, then making some overlays with tracing paper. 

These guys are good to work with in small quantities:  http://www.fiberlay.com

Do some searching on "pattern" and "plug" building before you dump a lot of money and time into your project.  Plan carefully.  I would estimate 300 hours and about $1,500 to the first part for your first project.

What do you have against E-glass?  There really isn't a difference between S and E from the molder's standpoint.  Some of the style numbers aren't duplicated in both types, but other than that...   

[pantablo]

I found fiberglass in the local hardware store in the automotive repair section.

[Turd Ferguson]

Lowe's, Home Depot, etc have "Bondo" brand fiberglass and resin in the paint department WITH THE ADHESIVES.  Unfortunately since they hire half-stoned pimply teenagers, none of the employees will even know they sell it.  Just ask where the adhesives are (you might even have to call it glue ) and the fiberglass will be under it.

-Turd.

[GeeP]

Don't use that "body repair" resin.  It's basically a really cheap fast-cure polyester.  You have about 5 minutes.  Plus, the exotherm is incredible.   It's enough to set your laminate alight if it's much over 1/4" thick.  Not only that, but it's waaaay over priced.

If you want to learn how to use real materials, I suggest you play with some Aeropoxy 2032 with 3665 catalyst.  It's safer to use than polyester, and the allowables are much better than you'll get with a polyester over time.  Plus, you can extend the cure time out past 2 hours if you keep a low shop temperature.  When you're learning, the last thing you need is to feel in a rush to get everything into the mold.

Fiberlay distributes an isophthalic tooling resin which I like.  It's called P17 as I recall.  You can use that for your mold along with 8-10 layers of 1.5 oz chopped strand mat.  Be warned, polyester resin is hell on your body.  Styrene Monomer, one of the major constituents of polyester resin systems, is a powerful neurotoxin.  It specifically affects motor control, which will cause Parkinson's like symptoms.  Trust me, you don't want that.

To protect yourself you should be wearing surgical gloves followed by chemical gloves, a supplied air system, and a full overcoat.  If you get resin on your skin do not wash it off with solvent, that will only drive the chemicals into your skin.  Use soap and water only.  You can get away without a supplied air system only if you use massive amounts of ventilation.

A few other suppliers for retail quantities:

http://www.wicksaircraft.com

http://www.aircraftspruce.com

[annguyen1981]

Every auto parts store near me carries the stuff...  too bad I don't know a single thing about the subject