maintenance items

[debtman7]

Since I have a few weeks until my MSF course, I plan to go ahead and do some maintenance on my 96 GS so at least we can bond It only has 3,600 miles but is 11 years old, so I don't know how much stuff has gone bad while sitting around.

My plan so far is to change the oil and brake fluid and clean the air filter. I'm also going to check the gapping on the spark plugs and give them a look over, replacing if the look funky (they are 11 years old so who knows).

There two things I'm not sure about are the fork oil and checking the valve clearance. How often does everyone actually do these things? I find a lot of websites that say to change the fork oil at least every 2 years regardless of mileage, but many people seem to only do it if they notice a problem. The maintenance schedule says to check the valve clearance every 4,000 miles so I'd be about due, but again a lot of people seem to never do this, or only do it if something is wrong.

Are these things worth doing or a bit of overkill?

[Jughead]

Over Kill I would say.Myself I would Just Change the Oil and Brake Fluid.Ride it for a while and if the Forks don't feel right change the Oil and respring then.If the Plugs look Funky change them out for a Set of Non Resistor NGK,Denso,Autolite ETC. In my Experience stay away from Champions and Anything with a Resistor.The Plug Caps Already Have the Resisors Installed.
If the Airfilter Looks good Leave it Alone that will only be Extra Expense that you can use the Money on a K&N later on.With 3600 Miles it should still look good.

[pandy]

Since you have time, learn  to do the valves (if I can do 'em, you can! ). I know scratch advises every 4k miles on the valves (and he does it!  ) and 2 years on the fork oil. Why not change the plugs anyway? It's a cheap way to make sure you're good to go! 

Do you know about Kerry's valve video? 

[Egaeus]

Since I have a few weeks until my MSF course, I plan to go ahead and do some maintenance on my 96 GS so at least we can bond It only has 3,600 miles but is 11 years old, so I don't know how much stuff has gone bad while sitting around.

My plan so far is to change the oil and brake fluid and clean the air filter. I'm also going to check the gapping on the spark plugs and give them a look over, replacing if the look funky (they are 11 years old so who knows).

There two things I'm not sure about are the fork oil and checking the valve clearance. How often does everyone actually do these things? I find a lot of websites that say to change the fork oil at least every 2 years regardless of mileage, but many people seem to only do it if they notice a problem. The maintenance schedule says to check the valve clearance every 4,000 miles so I'd be about due, but again a lot of people seem to never do this, or only do it if something is wrong.

Are these things worth doing or a bit of overkill?

They're relatively cheap and easy.  Do them, no matter what Jughead says.  He says a lot of things that aren't right.  

The worst that can happen by checking your valves is that they don't need adjustment (as long as you don't drop anything into the engine - watch the video first!).  If you don't, you can end up rebuilding the head because of burnt valves.  Valve checks are the cost of a feeler gauge. (Like $3 at Pep Boys for a metric one - the only place I found that carries them in metric). 

Oil breaks down over time, regardless of use.  The base oil doesn't, but many of the additives are somewhat volatile.  It also tends to slowly absorb water (look for cloudy oil).  Shearing forces and other things that contribute to short oil life in an engine don't exist in the forks to any significant degree.  It's mainly time that determines the life of the oil.   Fork oil is like $10-12 for a quart (all you need). 

While you have the forks off, you might change the seals, especially if you notice any oily residue on the forks. 

If the spark plugs are truly that old, just replace them.  You can't go wrong for $5. 

How does the bike run?  If it doesn't seem right (hangs when you rev, won't rev at all, etc.) you might consider cleaning the carburetors.  On a bike that old, you'll also definitely need to change all the o-rings.  You can most of them from the dealer or trust my guesstimation here.

If you're feeling ambitious, you can change the brake lines to braided stainless steel lines.  It's easy, but costs about $50 per line.  Straight rate front springs are also very nice.  They'll cost you about $100-120.  A Katana rear shock is good for the rear, and costs about $50 used on ebay (less if you're lucky).

[debtman7]

The valve video is great, that will help a lot, and I don't see any problem doing it. I'm hoping they're all in spec though, since replacing the shims seems like a much bigger job I'll go ahead and check them and hope for the best.

Fork oil, I was thinking about deterioration too. I mean, 11 years is a long time for oil regardless of how many miles. Cheap and easy enough that I might as well do it, I need to get the wheels off anyway to replace the tires.

Ok now the carb... The bike runs great, can't find any flaws with it. My plan was to run a can of seafoam through the engine just to be safe though, since with 11 years of sitting it's likely got some gunk. I'd rather not have to do any carb work yet. Can o-rings wait until I get to the day I'm ready to take the carbs apart and clean them out? I was planning on getting new gaskets for the valve cover and oil filter cover since I'll be in there and might as well replace them.

Is there a place online that I can order rings and gaskets and such, or am I stuck with dealer prices?

[Egaeus]

As long as it's running okay, the o-rings can wait.  However, they're likely to fall apart once you take apart the carb.  There is no aftermarket source that I know of for all of the o-rings.  Partsnmore has a carb rebuild kit for the GS (it will fit up to 2000, no matter what they say) that has most of the o-rings.  However, some are either going to have to be ordered from the dealer, or use my estimations that I made the other day and find a source.

[debtman7]

Ok, how about the rings and gaskets for the head cover and oil cover? Is it overkill to plan on replacing those or should I just plan on it? If I'm likely to need to replace them I'd rather order them and have them ahead of time. They're all pretty cheap except the head cover gasket which seems to be like $20...

[The Antibody]

Ok, first some things you will NOT need. New front springs, rear shock, steel braided lines. These are possible upgrades that no one will ever NEED to do. They can just be nice sometimes. Next, gaskets... who knows. They are old, but may very well be in great shape. I wouldn't go buying all of this stuff right away. Change fluids and you should be fine. Now for brake lines, clutch cables and such. Eyeball them. If they are not dryrotted, then don't replace unless you want to for the hell of it. Valves would be good to check as well. Just remember, if it isn't broken, don't waist your time and money. Go for a ride instead.

  -Anti 

[debtman7]

Yeah, forks and such are going to wait It's tempting to do the front spring upgrade while I'm doing the fork oil, but I haven't decided yet.

Do dealers usually have the gaskets in stock? I don't mind taking things apart first as long as I can go get one if I need it, but I don't know if that's something you can just go get or if you have to special order it. I'd hate to have the bike apart and find out I need to wait a week for a new head cover gasket.

[Egaeus]

I'm lucky if my dealer has oil in stock.  YMMV. 

Most of the time, the valve cover gasket and o-rings can be reused.  However, if you ever pinch them, they'll leak oil like crazy and you'll have to replace them, so be sure you get everything lined up perfectly when you put it back together (easier said than done). 

You should replace the oil filter cover ring.  Most aftermarket filters (such as the Wix filter I used) come with one.  The stealer will charge you an outrageous amount for both the filter and the ring, and they're sold separately.

[Egaeus]

Ok, first some things you will NOT need. New front springs, rear shock, steel braided lines. These are possible upgrades that no one will ever NEED to do. They can just be nice sometimes. Next, gaskets... who knows. They are old, but may very well be in great shape. I wouldn't go buying all of this stuff right away. Change fluids and you should be fine. Now for brake lines, clutch cables and such. Eyeball them. If they are not dryrotted, then don't replace unless you want to for the hell of it. Valves would be good to check as well. Just remember, if it isn't broken, don't waist your time and money. Go for a ride instead.

  -Anti 

But hey, if he has a few weeks and is feeling ambitious...

[The Antibody]

Oh, of course. I just don't like to give the impression that GS500's are worthless unless upgrades are performed.

I personally have progressive springs and a GS1100 shock among other things.

One thing I recomend to all is to re-jet. Big difference. It actually starts.

  -Anti 

[GeeP]

Replace the tires. 

Change the oil.  (The oil filter is NAPA P/N PS4931, it includes the O-ring)

Checking out the forks is a good idea.  Replace the fork seals, cap O-rings, and dust seals.  Make sure you have a tool available to drive the slider bushings and fork seals.
Check the hoses for deterioration, replace as required.

Definately check the valves, adjust as required.

Brake fluid isn't a bad idea.

Lube the chain, check the tension.

Check the brakes.

Do a general safety check.  You can use the checklist in the Clymer's manual as a guide.

Other than that, stay close to home for the first few hundred miles.  Inspect it after every ride for the first few times out, then every other ride, then every 5th ride, etc.  You will find other things that need attention.

[ducati_nolan]

Sounds like everyone here has a different opinion, so basically do what you fel you ned to do. But since everyone is chiming in, I guess I will too.

If it's running great, don't worry about the carbs right now. If it starts running crummy then you'll need to take them apart and clean them. You'll pretty much for sure need some new O rings if you do take them apart.

All of your rubber stuff will probally be brittle. If you take your fuel lines off, they will probally crack and need to be replaced so be ready for that.

Carefully inspect your brake lines, they are old and should probally be replaced for safety sake. If you don't see any cracks then they can wait a while though. The reason everyone is saying you should get some braided lines is because they're cheaper than the factory rubber replacement items and they do help too. At least change your brake fluid. It's cheap and easy and will improve your safety.

Tires are old and should probally be replaced, but if there aren't any cracks, they can wait a little while. Just don't expect them to work as well as some fresh rubber and go easy on them.

Of course, change the oil too

[debtman7]

It's never easy is it

"Replace the fork seals, cap O-rings, and dust seals.  Make sure you have a tool available to drive the slider bushings and fork seals."

I'm not even sure what all these things are. I'm assuming the haynes manual has part numbers for these things? And what kind of tool is needed to drive a slider bushing and fork seal, whatever those are?

Getting confusing here

I have the feeling I'm going to take things apart and then have my bike in pieces as I try and figure out all the little rubber bits I'm going to need to order.

Brake lines, replacing would probably be good. I see stainless steel for the front for around $50. What about the rear? What would plain old rubber cost?

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

The "tool" to drive the bushings and seals is a piece of 1.5" schedule 40 PVC pipe, probably close to 2 feet in length. It goes around the upper fork tube to drive the seal down onto the lower fork tube. You'll also need to make a tool like the one in this thread. It takes like 5 minutes and costs about $10.. way cheaper than buying the suzuki tool.

Edited because I'm a moron who forgot the /url tag

[debtman7]

That sounds a lot more complicated than just dumping the oil out and dumping new oil in

[debtman7]

Ok, I've given it lots of thought and figured out what to best do on a budget

My plan so far is to do the standard stuff (oil change, change brake fluid, new tires, clean air filter, replace spark plugs). I'm going to go ahead and check the valve clearance and hope they are in spec and hope the gaskets are fine.

For the front fork, I've decided to go ahead and put in progressive springs and change the fork oil, but I'm not going to mess with the seals or dust caps. I'm going to hope that since they aren't leaking now, they won't be afterwards since I'm not disassembling them. And it seems to me that a leaky fork oil seal, should it develop, is not an emergency while riding home from work, so it's something that can wait until the next fork oil change, or whenever they start leaking. Hopefully I'm not way off on this one Plus, changing those seems a lot more complicated than just changing the oil...

For the brakes, along with the fluid change I'm going to replace the front lines with braided lines. I'm going to leave the rear brake lines alone for now. My logic here is that I'm running out of money after buying gear... The lines all look great, no cracks or fading, nice and flexible. They look brand new to me. But I know that doesn't mean anything... Since the fronts are going to supply most of the stopping distance, and it only needs one instead of 2, I'll replace those and that way even if the rears went out I shouldn't die.

Sound reasonable?

[Egaeus]

Sounds good to me.  One thing though: if you should notice oil on your fork, definitely change the seals asap.  oil + brakes = a bad time had for all.