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Installed Progressive Springs Yesterday

Started by trumpetguy, June 08, 2006, 08:20:24 AM

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trumpetguy

I installed Progressive Springs yesterday and went for a short ride.  The effects were pretty amazing but not exactly what I expected.  The front end doesn't bottom out under heavy braking now (as expected).  It still dives a little under braking, but doesn't bottom out. 

What I didn't expect was that the overall ride was much smoother.  I expected it to be more harsh, but since it never bottomed out on cracks or potholes, the overall effect was a much smoother ride.  Cornering is more fun -- it encourages more spirited riding.  There's nothing like bottoming the front forks in a turn to scare the crap out of you -- that is no longer an issue.

The stock springs were designed for someone weighing 95 lbs. or so.  The progressives work well for me (I'm 175 lbs.).  I may be ready for some higher rate springs in the future, but these are a great improvement for now.

I used Pantablo's "lazy method" of installing the springs without fork removal and it took me about 20 minutes.  You need a 1/2" ratchet, a 6 mm allen wrench, and a coat hanger wire or magnet wand to remove the old springs.  I used a 3/4" PVC spacer.  To those who are doing this in the future, one step I would add is to put an index mark on the handlebar bracket and handlebars to aid in getting the handlebar angle set back to where it started (two pieces of masking tape would serve well).
TrumpetGuy
1998 Suzuki GS500E
1982 Suzuki GS1100E
--------------------------------------
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and not clothed." -- Dwight D. Eisenhower

Queso


trumpetguy

The spacer is to set ride height so that fork travel is in the middle of it's range in normal riding.   I used the length recommended by Progressive in their installation instructions. 

There are websites that detail doing this in a more exact way, if you are interested.  Getting it exactly right is important for racing and spirited riding.
TrumpetGuy
1998 Suzuki GS500E
1982 Suzuki GS1100E
--------------------------------------
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and not clothed." -- Dwight D. Eisenhower

average

Because the stock spacers are way too long for the progressives or race tech springs.
R.I.P
Rich(Phadreus)
90 gs5 04 Fairings(that's right)
LP flushmounts up front  shortened turn signals
Kanatuna rear wheel swap
Kat FE

nick_villan

it was mad easy? hey are the do the gs ones work on the gsf?
Full racing exhaust, jet kit, kn filter

average

R.I.P
Rich(Phadreus)
90 gs5 04 Fairings(that's right)
LP flushmounts up front  shortened turn signals
Kanatuna rear wheel swap
Kat FE

RVertigo

The lazy way is REALLY DAMN EASY...

My ride is a little more rough, but I actually have traction in bumpy corners...  And it doesn't bottom out any more...

Overall way easier to ride.

pantablo

Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

domas

I changed them also last week. I ride in a quite bad roads here in "third" country, so progressives made a world of difference. I installed them the hard way and was happy for it. It wasnt so hard and i was glad to get that dark old oil out the forks and pour some fresh in.

The springs were aligned perfectly with the forks when inserted and it was very easy to put caps on. So i decided to add 20mm (3/4'') nylon spacer to raise the sag. Maybe i overdid it a bit, because i now have about 20-30mm or about an inch of free sag. So the ride is a bit harsher now, but i realy felt like on a new bike.

I also started feeling that the rear shock is too soft now. When i sit on my bike the fron doesn't lower a bit. So i think i will look for some replacement shock.

Overall it is really very good mod, and should be done when driver has about a month or two of experience. It was a must for me, because braking on a very rough downhill road and having your forks bottom out and bike jumping on the bumps wasn't fun at all  :o
'02 GS500 Yellow, Mods: K&N drop in w/o restrictor, BSM full exhaust, 132.5/60/17.5 (e-clip @ 4), progressive springs, katana rear shock ('01), fenderoctomy,  sleek mirrors, loud dual automotive horn, warmed grips(home made), SS front brake line.

bubba zanetti

good write up guys  :thumb:  :bowdown:  :bowdown:

Thats the exact info I'm after on progesive springs. The standard springs are too hard & after about 400k's I start to really ache, so by installing progrssives should make the bike better for touring.
The more I learn about women, the more I love my bike.

SHENANIGANS

Ugly Fat Old Bastard #72

Jeff P

FWIW, doing this job the whole hog way isn't very difficult either.  It also allows for the opportunity to replace the fork oil. 

jeff

trumpetguy

My fork oil was replaced last year -- the previous owner had the seals replaced and oil changed, so I wasn't worried about changing the oil.

However, I think I'll use Pantablo's "Lazy Method"® to change the oil to 15W soon.  It will probably match the damping rate to the springs better.
TrumpetGuy
1998 Suzuki GS500E
1982 Suzuki GS1100E
--------------------------------------
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and not clothed." -- Dwight D. Eisenhower

Alphamazing

Quote from: trumpetguy on June 09, 2006, 05:02:30 PM
My fork oil was replaced last year -- the previous owner had the seals replaced and oil changed, so I wasn't worried about changing the oil.

However, I think I'll use Pantablo's "Lazy Method"® to change the oil to 15W soon.  It will probably match the damping rate to the springs better.

The "Lazy Method" is for installing springs only, not changing fork oil. You need to remove your forks to change the fork oil because you need to turn them upside down pump them numerous times to drain the oil out.

Fork oil should be changed every 2 years.
'05 DR-Z400SM (For Sale)
'04 GS500E (Sold)

Holy crap it's the Wiki!
http://wiki.gstwins.com/

Queso

I just got my progressives today (along with my upgraded brake lines, YAY!!). I also got some new fork seals and fork oil (10w - it was that or 20w, so I went with 10). I've got some nasty little spots on the front of my fork springs I'd like to take care of, too... Can't wait to get everything installed!

I'm wondering about the spacers though... I'm 160, should I go with 3/4"?

Chuck

Quote from: AlphaFire X5 on June 12, 2006, 11:56:05 AM
The "Lazy Method" is for installing springs only, not changing fork oil.

Scroll down.  The lazy method of changing fork oil is to vacuum it out with a syringe.  I'd make a custom catch container and hook it up to my shop-vac.

He didn't say it was a good way, as most lazy ways aren't good.  But I'm sure it works.

Alphamazing

Quote from: Chuck on June 12, 2006, 04:20:27 PM
Quote from: AlphaFire X5 on June 12, 2006, 11:56:05 AM
The "Lazy Method" is for installing springs only, not changing fork oil.

Scroll down.  The lazy method of changing fork oil is to vacuum it out with a syringe.  I'd make a custom catch container and hook it up to my shop-vac.

He didn't say it was a good way, as most lazy ways aren't good.  But I'm sure it works.

You still need to pump the forks to get the oil out, and even then you won't be able to get it nearly as drained as you would by taking them out of the triples. When you pump the forks you won't be able to suck all of that oil out with a vacuum; it needs to be turned upside down, pumped, and allowed to drain properly.
'05 DR-Z400SM (For Sale)
'04 GS500E (Sold)

Holy crap it's the Wiki!
http://wiki.gstwins.com/

Chuck


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