uhhhhhhh what the hell is this noise?? **update with audio**

Started by vsboxerboy, July 23, 2006, 10:30:06 PM

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Egaeus

I saw it.  I have no idea what that noise is. 

If it does it while not moving, you might invest in a stethoscope and try and pinpoint the location of the noise.
Sorry, I won't answer motorcycle questions anymore.  I'm not f%$king friendly enough for this board.  Ask me at:
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vsboxerboy

well, i guess i could get a friend to help me, it doesnt make the noise while idling and only makes it a little when not under load even if i rev the engine.  There is severe power loss though, although im not pushing it hard but the bike really feels weak.
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

Egaeus

You should also check the compression.  It doesn't exactly sound like piston slap, but then again, the bandwidth of your camcorder isn't as good as a human ear.
Sorry, I won't answer motorcycle questions anymore.  I'm not f%$king friendly enough for this board.  Ask me at:
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vsboxerboy

I was a bit confused about how to go about checking the compression.  I googled for a gauge to check the compression and it was rediculously expensive.  Where would I get the tool from and how much should it cost, or should I just take it to the dealer?/
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

Egaeus

You can get one at autozone or similar for about $30 I think.  You can also borrow one for free at AZ. 
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GeeP

Sounds like a big end connecting rod bearing to me.  It's LOUD too!  I'm truly suprised you don't have "metal flake" oil, but I still think it's a con rod bearing. 

I suggest a teardown and inspection before it breaks, otherwise you'll have a mess.  Hopefully you'll be able to get by with a new set of bearings, but I would be prepared for a new crankshaft or rod.  A bearing failure isn't a particularly serious problem from the repair standpoint, as long as it's caught in time.  I think you caught it in time.   :thumb: 
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

vsboxerboy

I certainly hope so.  Thanks alot for the help...should I even bother with a compression test or just go ahead with the teardown.  I just ordered a repair manual (yes, through the link that supports the site  8)).  I was reading WildBlue's thread and it was posted:

Quote from: Mandres on July 27, 2006, 05:24:13 PM
Go ahead and order a complete gasket set so you'll have it when you're ready to reassemble.  You'll need a dial caliper, valve spring compressor, ring expander, torque wrench, cylinder hone, circlip pliers and gasket scraper as well as solvents and moly grease. 

It's not difficult but it is time consuming.  Work patiently and cleanly and you shouldn't have any problems. 

-M

Any other parts I should order??
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

GeeP

A compression test won't tell you anything about the condition of the connecting rods.  I would go ahead and do a complete overhaul, to include boring the cylinders if needed.  You would be completely renewing the cylinders.  In that case a compression test won't tell you anything you need to know.  When you're done you'll have a new GS.

Out of curiosity, what RPM were you shifting at?  Now, you're positive the valve clearances are within specification?  I just don't want to see a post a week from now saying that the bottom end is fine, but one valve shim was out .1".   :)

Just to be sure, I would take a trip down to Autozone tomorrow and buy yourself a mechanic's stethescope.  They're about $10 or so.  You should be able to hear that rod knock with the engine idling in neutral.  If you hear a little "clack clack" from the lower case area you know what the problem is beyond a doubt.
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

phire

Joshua
2005 GS500F

vsboxerboy

Yeah, I definately checked the valve clearance about 1500 miles ago, and it made a huge difference.  I will check again before I tear apart the engine but I checked when I examined the cam tensioner and everthing looked good.  I was shifting at about 5K in the video but was only going about 1/4 throttle.
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

Egaeus

That sound is not a valve.  I think GeeP probably got it right. However, determining where it is coming from is key. 
Sorry, I won't answer motorcycle questions anymore.  I'm not f%$king friendly enough for this board.  Ask me at:
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password: gs500

vsboxerboy

Yeah, I'll have to go to autozone and get that...just wondering, what would boring the cylinders cost  or how much approx do you figure this will be costing me to fix?
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

Egaeus

Sorry, I won't answer motorcycle questions anymore.  I'm not f%$king friendly enough for this board.  Ask me at:
webchat.freequest.net
or
irc.freequest.net if you have an irc client
room: #gstwins
password: gs500

GeeP

I suspect you're probably looking in the $500 range to completely overhaul the engine - assuming the crankshaft is OK.  (It should remain is specification unless the bearing has spun or there are steel particles in the oil.)  To fix your bearing problem will probably run about $100 - $150.  

Note:  I haven't had to tear into a GS engine yet, it's an educated guess from a time when I was planning to buy a ratbike instead of the GS I found.  I looked up all the parts I expected to replace and added it up.  One of the racers who tears into their engine on a regular basis would be able to give you a closer figure.

Boring the cylinders will be around $100, possibly less.  It depends on the shop.

Do you have the Clymer's manual?  If not, order one.  You'll be needing it!   :)

QuoteMandres would know.
Yup!  He just finished a bottom end as I recall.   8)
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

vsboxerboy

I ordered the Clymers manual through the link on the gstwin.com main site but $150 isnt bad at all probably another $100 or so on tools as well (I don't have a torque wrench, etc).  I was just making sure cause I bought the bike for $1200 so I didn't want to spend a fortune fixing it.  Either way the amount I learn should be worth the cost.
1991 GS500E | K&N Drop In | Rejet 127.5/40 | Ignition Advancer |

                                ***UCSB***

phire

Quote from: vsboxerboy on July 31, 2006, 12:21:58 PM
I ordered the Clymers manual through the link on the gstwin.com main site but $150 isnt bad at all probably another $100 or so on tools as well (I don't have a torque wrench, etc).  I was just making sure cause I bought the bike for $1200 so I didn't want to spend a fortune fixing it.  Either way the amount I learn should be worth the cost.

Not only will the knowledge gained be worth the cost, you'll have a bunch of cool new tools after you're done! Something you don't get when you pay others to perform the work for you. Then, the next time you have to rebuild a bike, you'll already have all the tools and the know-how to do it.

About the only advice I can offer is to take your time and don't try to finish the job in record time. Be patient and very meticulous. Slow and steady wins the race, they say. If you think the directions you're reading won't give you a clear picture you can remember for when you put things back together, sometimes color coding with tape or markers can help as well as taking pictures.
Joshua
2005 GS500F

GeeP

Quote from: vsboxerboy on July 31, 2006, 12:21:58 PM..... another $100 or so on tools as well (Ias just making sure cause I bought the bike for $1200 so I didn't want to spend a fortune fixing it.  Either way the amount I learn should be worth the cost.

Don't look at repair cost balanced against the current market value of the machine as it sits, it's false logic and precisely what the automobile companies want you to think.  Instead, look at repair cost balanced against REPLACEMENT cost.  An example:

My company uses a process pump.  I can buy them used for $1,000 or new for $5,000.  The used one will require an overhaul costing $2,000 or twice what the used pump is worth on the open market.  The $3,000 overhauled pump performs just as well and for just as long as the brand new $5,000 pump, the only difference is price. 

So, I put $2,000 into a $1,000 pump and saved $2,000!  :icon_twisted:

Put another way:

I bought my GS for $700.  I can rebuild it to as-new condition for about $1,500.  That's the works, everything is either overhauled or brand new.  So for $2,200 I'll have a brand new GS.  If I were to go out and buy a brand new GS it would cost me about $5,000.  Obviously, I save quite a bit doing it myself and I get to customize it just for me.

Now, I might not be able to recoup that $1,500 if I sold it, but if it's getting the job done there's no need to sell it now is there?

Stop thinking like a consumer and start thinking like a mechanic!  Some poor bastard put the sucker together so you  can sure as heck take it apart and fix it.   :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:

QuoteNot only will the knowledge gained be worth the cost, you'll have a bunch of cool new tools after you're done! Something you don't get when you pay others to perform the work for you. Then, the next time you have to rebuild a bike, you'll already have all the tools and the know-how to do it.

Absolutely!  Not only that, but those skills are also useful for working on your car.  As soon as you touch your car you're putting $120 an hour into your pocket.  That's what the car dealer will charge you for the pleasure of repairing your vehicle.
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

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