Loss of acceleration after Jet Kit, New Pipe, and K&N air filter - What's Wrong

[Mad Myke]

OK, I have been a lurker on this site for months. While I was lurking I went ahead and made some modifications to my newly aquired GS500E as per the suggestions of this site. Looked at all your Dyno charts, jet kits, pipes, and modifications. I choose the least aggressive upgrades to my bike because I just wanted a little more umph and didn't want to lower gas milage much.

My goal is to create a zippy little commuter bike to get me to work reliably, save gas milage, and allow me to escape fast if I get into trouble.

I installed the Vance and Hines Super Sport exhaust, the Dyno Jet kit #3128 Stage 1 with the DJ122 main jet, and the K&N air filter without the restrictor, not the lunchbox but the direct replacement, two turns out on the idle screw. Unfortunately I did all the changes at once. So I do not know where I am going wrong. I think that I may now be running leaner than stock. Possible??? I will try adding the restrictor in the K&N to see if that helps.

The bike idles better, runs smoother, and seems to free rev higher faster, but man it really lost it's acceleration power. 0 to 60 seems a lot slower.

I am a little on the heavy side 6' @ 210 pounds but stock it would almost pull a wheelie. (If you count a Half a inch a wheelie) Thinking about putting it back to stock. Damn, I hate it when I waste money....

Here is my progress:
Yes, I have been testing with that tiny gas can... Waiting for the clear to dry on my new tank.



So my question is... am I lean, rich, or something else?

Any help would be appreciated, I did not see any posts close to my problem. Everyone else is saying thier performance is better, mine is worse. Hmmm... Could it be they just think thier performance is better and have no real proof to base it on? I would like to see before and after dyno charts.

[The Buddha]

Did you drill your slides - and did you install the restrictor. And you install 1 or both - if you installed both - that is your problem. heck even 1 is bad. They have no clue what they are talking about ... of course with their needle it needs it ... but it creaes a different set of problems.
If you haven't touched your slides - you can try to install one of the correctors - but run it this way and see first.
Go for a ride and try this.
Open throttle slowly - if it works fine, but open it fast and it falls on its face - then OK that is your problem. You need a corrector in the bottom of the slide.
I'd probably tap it with 4-40 without drilling it, and install a 4-40 nylon screw and cut it flush and grind it smooth.
If you ave stock needles still lying about - put those back in and put 125 mains and 40 pilots with 1 washer under the needle. Then ebay the DJ kit to some poor non gstwin sucker.
Cool.
Srinath.

[werase643]

Srinath, leave him be
The DJ kit does work....they got dyno sheets to prove it

pull plugs....what do they look like
black wet...rich
white...lean
grey-lt brown....ok

[The Buddha]

OH yea ... how much did they fiddle with it to get it working ... and no Dyno sheets - we need an O2 sensor graph more than Dyno ... hanging idle etc dont show on dyno cos its not under power ...
Cool.
Srinath.

[werase643]

my fist race bike has had a DJ since 95

[The Buddha]

OK great ... then you help this guy ...     
Cool.
Srinath.

[Mad Myke]

Did you drill your slides - and did you install the restrictor. And you install 1 or both - if you installed both - that is your problem. heck even 1 is bad. They have no clue what they are talking about ... of course with their needle it needs it ... but it creaes a different set of problems.
If you haven't touched your slides - you can try to install one of the correctors - but run it this way and see first.
Go for a ride and try this.
Open throttle slowly - if it works fine, but open it fast and it falls on its face - then OK that is your problem. You need a corrector in the bottom of the slide.
I'd probably tap it with 4-40 without drilling it, and install a 4-40 nylon screw and cut it flush and grind it smooth.
If you ave stock needles still lying about - put those back in and put 125 mains and 40 pilots with 1 washer under the needle. Then ebay the DJ kit to some poor non gstwin sucker.
Cool.
Srinath.

Yes, I drilled the slides and put in both restrictors (one is a small hole the other was a plug to block the hole). I followed the stage one instructions to the tee! The bike is running fine. I can slam the throttle and it will go without hesitation. I can put the throttle on light and it does fine. It just "feels" like it takes a  little longer for a 0 to 60. Almost like I dropped horsepower.

I know, I know I should not have bought the Dynojet and just did 135 mains and 40 pilots with a #4 washer, and got one of your wileyco pipe mounts but.... I didn't want to go crazy with the bike, plus dynojet claims better gas mileage with thier kit. I can see why now.

Driving slower = better gas mileage!

So, no I am not getting any hesitation. I am getting a linear pull instead of a exponential pull that I thought I used to get. Does this make sense?

But then again this is a small bike. I just sold my 2004 1300 VTX cause I was tired of the poor gas mileage, that thing would pull your arms off and spin the tire. But this one is fun to slam into the corners and gets a lot better mileage.

What is a good way to test my acceleration scientifically to prove or disprove that it is slower with the upgrades?

Any ideas!

I will put some miles on her and check the plugs in a sec.

[Mad Myke]

I haven't done my vavles yet either but I'm not sure how much this should affect my performance.

As srinath would probly say it is always the carbs and vavles should not even be a factor, since it was better before the upgrades.

[The Buddha]

I'll tell you what your plugs look like - at idle - grey ish.
If you can do 1/8th throttle under load - you'd be lighter grey.
The 1/4 through 3/4 - you'll be black as you're opening it, and grey when you are steady.
Whatever - your problem - slides are comming up too slow ... waaaaaaay too slow.
I'd prolly remove the corrector with hole and run it open. The threads etc - yea clean it free of like powdery crap and leave it.
Cool.
Srinath.

[werase643]

take a wrench with you
ride in 3rd gear 9k-11k
for 1-2 miles
kill engine/pull over
remove plugs....what color

sounds like your idle is good
mid range....will have to come last
high(WOT) is the main alone

[Mad Myke]

So if I make the hole bigger the air trapped inside the slide body can escape quicker and let the slide rise faster. This in turn should lift the needles out of the tube letting massive amounts of gasoline flow.  Hmmm...

So what about the threads in the hole. Leave them?

[Mad Myke]

I will pull the the restrictor out of the slides and test.

I will also check the plugs per werase643 instructions, Just to see.

I still need an idea how to prove that this helps. What is an easy way to prove 0-60 is better without going to the local quarter mile track and running a 13 or 14 or even a 16 and embarrising myself?

Can't do it this weekend. I have a date with my waterbike!

SeaDoo GTX Turbo.... fun fun fun!

[Mad Myke]

OK, I removed the restrictor with the hole it it. Damn, that leaves one huge gaping hole in the slide.

Started it and gave it a few free revs. So far I can't tell a difference. I will try to ride it tomorrow morning in the AM before I leave for the lake to see if it takes my head off now. The bike is a little loud and it is late. The neighbors already hate me. SO, I will wait until 8am Sat. morning to give it a good hard run through the neighborhood.

Oh, by the way. In the DynoKit for the E. The stage 3 intructions say to remove one of the restrictors if you are racing or do hard street riding.

I guess thats me!



Just thought I would included it, so the rest will know you are the man. 

[Brian w/92 GS]

What was your results with one restrictor removed?