Help me with Crankshaft bearings

[Afzzr12]

Well, I haven't bought the book yet, but plan to.  However, I have my engine tore down and now need to order the bearings.  The markings on the case and shaft are as follows.


Case is    A          A
               A  A  A  A

Crank is   A  B  B  A

What color/ part number bearings do I need?
How many should I order?  (read something about some of the packages only come with one half in it)
What clearance should I look for when using the plasti gauge?
Any other inputs would be GREAT if anyone has them.

Thanks
Alex

[sledge]

Take that info to the the dealer, they will identify the correct bearings and part numbers.

[Afzzr12]

Thanks.  I dont' really want to order form the dealer here.  They are retarded and not helpful at all.  You ask them questions about most any part and they never can find an answer.  I know there are some people on here with the books.  I would really appreciate it if you would help. 

Thanks
Alex

[MarkusN]

For the A-A combination (outer crankshaft journals) you need color code green, 12229-01D00-0A0

for the A-B combination (inner crankshaft journals) you need color code black, 12229-01D00-0B0

No idea if those codes are only half or a full bearing.

Bearing clearance should be 0.020 to 0.044 mm, wear limit is 0.080 mm

[dgyver]

The part numbers are for only (1) half of the bearing. Need to order (2) per part number for a complete bearing.

[Afzzr12]

Thanks guys, but what about the crankshaft balancer bearings?  Do the coldes go the same way?  Are there suppposed to be imprinted letters on the CB too?  I guess I'll look tonight after work.

[MarkusN]

You already have the data on the A-A and A-B combinations. If your balancer shaft journals are C you need color code brown, 12229-01D00-0C0

And if anybody will be using this for future reference (first character code: bore, second: journal):

A-A is green 12229-01D00-0A0
B-A and A-B are black 12229-01D00-0B0
A-C and B-B are brown 12229-01D00-0C0
B-C is yellow: 12229-01D00-0D0

[onefastgs500]

we always run green bearings in all our race motors -never had a problem(this was on the advice of my tuner who has been building hot bike motors since 1976)

[MarkusN]

we always run green bearings in all our race motors -never had a problem(this was on the advice of my tuner who has been building hot bike motors since 1976)

That means you run them with maximum clearance. That is fine for a motor that's constantly run at the upper end of the RPM band, as race motors are. For minimum wear on everyday usage, which sees a lot of idling and much load in the middle of the RPB band, not so much.

[onefastgs500]

not true we also use the greens on many street bikes w/ loads of miles being put on them never had any failures (except counterbalancer bearings and they always wear out prematurely)
trust me i know what i'm doing wouldn't steer the boy wrong.

[Afzzr12]

That is the best description of the code reference I have seen on this sight.  Trust me.  I have searched nearly every thread there is on Crankshaft bearings too.  That one paragraph should be put as a sticky in the FAQ.  I know these motors get rebuilt by a lot of people on here.

[MarkusN]

(except counterbalancer bearings and they always wear out prematurely)

See, that's where I disagree. Every case of plain bearing failure (Rod, crankshaft, counterbalancer) that I have heard of on the GS (and I have heard of quite a few) could be traced back to either running them low on oil or blocking an oil channel. Barring that, they seem to be pretty much indestructible. Unless, as it would seem, if run with excessive clearance (which will put higher demands on oil flow.)

[onefastgs500]

counterbalancer will eat bearings-its a characteristic design flaw -i think because the damn thing weighs 8lbs and tends to flex at the drive end-i've seen it many times on street and racebikes alike the other bearings almost never show signs of wear i usually change them just because i;m alredy tearing down amotor for other reasons.

[Afzzr12]

None of the bearing in my motor show any real signs of wear.  They al lookclose to new.  I'm only changing them because I have it apart to replace the rear cam chain guide.