Clutch Slipping

[scratch]

Is that a synthetic, energy-saving car oil?

[rob1bike]

I am using 10W-40.

OK, glad we cleared that up. I will use an impact driver. 

I'll order the pin and replace it as soon as possible. If the rotor does become malaligned I assume the tachometer will give a false reading?

You are useing auto oil in your motorcyle, synthetic oil designed to swell seals to prevent leaks in cars? and now your clutch is gone? Hmmmmm.
I don't buy into the whole its ok to use car oil in your bike idea. Its been debated before just doesn't seem like the gamble I wanna take.
Best of luck!

[Yankee Punker]

I am using 10W-40.

OK, glad we cleared that up. I will use an impact driver. 

I'll order the pin and replace it as soon as possible. If the rotor does become malaligned I assume the tachometer will give a false reading?

You are useing auto oil in your motorcyle, synthetic oil designed to swell seals to prevent leaks in cars? and now your clutch is gone? Hmmmmm.
I don't buy into the whole its ok to use car oil in your bike idea. Its been debated before just doesn't seem like the gamble I wanna take.
Best of luck!

+1 , But, if it's from a green bottle of Castrol GTX I think its just regular car oil, not synthetic, which I myself think is even worse.

[Jace009gs]

no it's a synthetic blend, base 3 polymers


Just to clarify ft/lbs

Is a unit of measure of force over a fulcrum. eg: in this application it's the weight of your body's force divided by the wrench's length. =the longer the wrench the less you have to push.

I KNOW THAT MY MANUAL has everything listed in N/m not ft/lbs I would triple check that...50n/m is about 20ft/lbs.....My 1/2" drive tourque wrech (I use on HD equipment) goes from 35ft/lbs up to 220ft/lbs and it's about 20" long, I HAVE yet to snap a grade 8 bolt, but when I was putting on new rotors on my bike I was using my wrech set at 30ft/lbs and it did not engage at that setting and I broke 3 of the 5 mo-fos off.. AKa-the rotor bolts snap like toothpicks @ less than 30ft/lbs.....cheap-o suzuki bolts? or years of wheel vibration, either case I was  just bought a used wheel inseat of drilling and tapping all that headache

[davidcl]

Just an update. I took back the torque wrench, getting my money back, and I bought a impact screw driver set. I bought this exact one. I wasn't sure if this was a pneumatic tool so when I bought it I wasn't sure I was buying the recommended tool. Anyway, place the tip in the socket and place the tip in the stuck screw. Whack the end with a hammer a few times, twist the handle and out comes screw. The hardened tip digs into the head and the blows break any bonds in the threads while twisting the socket with massive torque. Read more about it here.

Thanks for the help.  Now just to adjust the clutch cable and I can ride again...in the snow (yay! Midwest blizzard).

[indywar360]

$3.49? are they crazy?

or what is s/h, like 20$

[davidcl]

$3.49? are they crazy?

or what is s/h, like 20$

Yeah, that's Harbor Freight. I'm not sure how they stay in business. Apparently it must be super cheap to have it manufactured in China and then shipped on a freighter where it gets trucked to my local store. Although, you get what you pay for and this tool actually worked. I cannot say to much about their torque wrenches. Note, though, that it was $8 in store, where I bought it.

Thanks. 

[davidcl]

I'm so close...

So, I've installed the pin into the signal generator rotor and crankshaft. However, the pin was a couple millimeters to big so I ground it down slightly. The pin was making the rotor pinch on one side against the metal ring on the signal generator when tightened down. This, when ran, made the rotor smoke as it was rubbing up against the ring. Thus, I ground down the pin and now the rotor does not get out of adjustment nor wobble to one side when bolted down. Hopefully that problem is solved.

Next, I adjusted the cable as per spec of 4 mm of free play. Following the instructions in the manual, the clutch was still dragging and would not go into gear easily. Thus the springs were not being pushed open far enough. So I again adjusted the adjustment screw and slowly turn it in until I felt resistance and then backed it out 1/4 turn. The bike no longer creeps (clutch drag) but it is hard to shift into neutral. IT WILL GO IN NEUTRAL, but it is temperamental. Now I went back and adjusted the screw some more this time screwed it in farther and the clutch was too loose and went threw the gears and neutral fine (while running). Thus, it must be the adjustment screw. I have since put it back to where it was but it still is temperamental about putting it in neutral.

Should I just keep playing with it? Any suggestions?

Thanks for your continued help.  BTW, the bike runs great, except for being hard to put in neutral (while running, goes into neutral fine when off) and takes off like a ROCKET! 

[Gisser]

I'm so close...

Should I just keep playing with it? Any suggestions?

The clearance provided by the adjusting screw/locknut behind the oblong plate has a specific purpose which is to ensure the clutch pushrod isn't riding the fragile, flat throwout bearing.  It is not meant to reposition the friction zone up at the lever.  There's some flexibility in the cable adjustment for that.  Aside from the risk of brg failure, the extra pull you got by tightening up the clearance in the pushrod/release brg should have no different effect than could be had by tightening the cable slack. 

It's a wet clutch; there's going to be some drag on the clutch plates when the engine is running which in turn will lightly load the transmission creating some shifting friction and the resulting inertia can make it tricky to land on the neutral half-shift.  Bear in mind it's almost winter, and heavy oil can aggravate the condition.  Let the engine warm-up more...wait for spring...go 5w-40 synth...allow for some rider break-in...I think it's OK.