Plz Help! Can I get a part number?!

[aschiro]

Hey hey, my first post - just got a '98 GS500E, my first bike a few months ago and took a PA state riding class while I got her runnin'.  This site rocks - I've learned a lot here and just registered 'cause I need to find a part number to replace the o-ring under the
glide/plastic piston guide near the ?emulation tube? and needle jet in the carbs.  my o-ring is squashed and semi-disintegrated so looking for official suzuki number here.

all the online sales sites have a carb diagram that is slightly different than the ones in my clymer & haynes books (which I believe have this o-ring numbered with a 10 and maybe 31 & shown just to the left of the needle jet) and I don't see this o-ring on any of the sales site diagrams (whose major difference besides this is showing at the bottom of the diagram seperate fuel intake hoses connected to to the T piece which connects to the fuel line from petcock whereas mine the fuel line connects to the T which goes straight into the carb body - fuel channels in the metal)  hope this makes sense and someone can please help!  my goal is to get the part number of the o-ring so i can call local shops to see who has it so I can buy & work on the bike this weekend!  jonesin' to ride again and get this puppy tuned!

[starwalt]

Methinks this oring is usally part of a carb rebuild kit.

Several are listed in ebay regularly, usually in pairs. Don't get in a bid fight for them, they're listed all the time.

I don't know why the sites don't list it, unless it is part of a kit. See previous line.

If you are going to wrench your own GS, you might as well get accustomed to the fiche sites.

Regarding tube routing, there is a nice diagram of the proper routing HERE .

[3imo]

If for some reason you aren't gonna get a rebuild kit, most o-rings can be had in Auto parts stores.  get a pack for a couple dollars.

finding one that is an exact match......well your on your own.

[Trwhouse]

Hey there aschiro,
Where in PA are you?
I'm in Lancaster if I can be of help.
Yours,
Todd

[aschiro]

Doh!  really?  I've read about other people replacing these o-rings in one or two other posts, and since my clymer & haynes books seem to show it I figured I'd be able to buy 'em individually like the other o-rings.   what fiche sites are you referring to?  I see fiche's at several sales sites but they're all the same and don't match the ones in my books like I mentioned.  I'm good on the hose routing - what I mean is that if you look at Kerry's "inlet 7 on the lower tube between the carbs" in the photo from your link, it shows that the lower tube is metal - part of the carbs.  In the fiche diagrams I see at sales places online, they show the lower tube as a couple of seperate rubber hoses with ring clamps (numbered as 51, 52 & 54) which doesn't seem right since these don't exist on the bike.  tried to attach the image here but not sure exactly how...

I've been living in Philadelphia for almost 4 yrs now - originally from harrisburg area, and have lived in newark, DE and seattle, WA

[hmmmnz]

take your oring to a mechanics or a parts store and buy another one, its a standard oring, nothing special about it.

[sledge]

O- rings are precision items and available in many sizes and variations, what is critical is internal diameter of the ring, the material, or nitrile-elastomer that its made from, its compressabilty and the cross section of the material used, too small and it wont deform and seal effectively, too large and it wont allow the sealing face to contact each other when the parts are asseambled. O-rings dont reduce in size when fitted, they deform and fill the containment area. The best place to source o-rings are from Hydraulic Engineers/suppliers. The link will help you identify whats needed. My guess is that the o-ring will be made to whats known as JIS or the Japanese industrial standard, all standard sizes are listed on the website.

http://www.afmusa.com/orings.search.asp

[starwalt]

I understand the desire to obtain the individual parts -- way cheaper for sure.
But think also that if you have one bad o-ring, all the other parts in the carb are probably in similar or worse shape.

Page 3.5 of my Haynes manual --  Section 5 Carburettor Overhaul -- Paragraph 6
"Before diassembling the carburettors, make sure you have all the necessary O-rings and seals (either obtained individually or as a rebuild kit)...."

Unless you live in a very remote location -- it can't be that remote if you have internet connectivity and you have been looking at the online sites -- I would obtain a total kit and not mess with piece-parting this job. That's just the way I approached the problem.

Here's a link to an ebay auction for two kits -- CLICK HERE

In the fiche diagrams I see at sales places online, they show the lower tube as a couple of seperate rubber hoses with ring clamps (numbered as 51, 52 & 54) which doesn't seem right since these don't exist on the bike.

I see what you are talking about now. My Suz OEM manual, the Haynes and the Clymer all use the same drawing WITHOUT  the lower t-tube and elbows you point out.  My guess is that it is an older Mikuni carb drawing that has most of the same parts.

Here's a shot of my 90 rebuild project in a tear down...notice there is no lower t-tube there either...click on the thumbnail for the bigger picture.


CLICK HERE for a pic of my carbs rebuilt -- also no lower tubes, but they have been replaced by the joining tee you see behind and under the center spring set.

So don't sweat what's not there in this case.

[DerekNC]

If it's the o-ring I'm thinking about they don't come in the carb kits, at least the ones on ebay. I used  automotive air conditioner o-rings. Just find one that's very close in size.

[l3uddha]

if you need OEM parts or part #s check out www.bikebandit.com (under OEM parts )

or you could go into your local dealership or m/c repair shop, tell them your model year and perdicament & they'll order one for you.

OEM parts are usually pretty expensive; OEM o-rings should be pretty cheap though.

[sledge]

whatever you choose to do just make sure the o-ring you use is not affected by petrol. Despite all o-rings looking the same, they are not.