Frozen choke cable?

[brett]

So it's been ungodly cold here lately. This morning I go to start her up and of course give it full choke. Bike starts fine, starts warming up, I go to turn the choke down... and nothing happens. Basically, it seems like the choke cable has frozen in place. My guess is that due to the cold something shrunk to where the cable couldn't retract to normal easily. After it warms up a bit, the cable works just fine again. Is this normal in really cold weather?

[Affschnozel]

Sometimes when you open full choke,the spring that retracts it back at the carburetors gets out of it's place and gets stuck.
Just follow the cable to the carbs and see if that's so,also lubricate it with wd 40 so it won't rust

[sledge]

Disconnect the cable at the carbs` and see if it moves freely. Cables that run horizontaly at the lower end like the GS choke cable are prone to siezure due to water entry. Because it is horizontal, any water that does find its way in cant easily drain through and tends to collect at the lowest point where it leads to rust and corrosion, just like the U-bend under your bath or sink drain. If you do replace the cable try and secure it in a position where no part of the cable is lower than the end if at all possible, this will allow water to drain through without collecting.

[3imo]

Good advice.

I would like to add, that it is super easy to remove the entire clutch cable.  You don't have to remove the tank but it makes it even easier.

I suggest you take out the cable and run WD40 down into it and move the cable back and forth. WD40 will run the entire length of the sheath.

WD40's function is water displacement.  This will solve your water freezing issues for a few years. I do it as part of my maintenance ritual with all my vehicles.

[rob1bike]

3imo is correct, keep in mind that wd40 is not a true lubricant, its a water displacer and it can remove any lub that's left, if its getting hung it most likely has no lube

[3imo]

Not to start an argument, but

I never lube my cables because #1 they don't come lubed. #2 lube attracts dirt which can bind up your cables worse than rust.

If there is a specific lube for these types of cable, I am unaware of it.

In my experience I have found that WD40 inside those cables will still be there at least for a year.  Not as a lube of couse, but as an additional barrier to water. WD40 does evaporate, but whenever I check my cables I still smell it and can feel it on my finger tips months after I applied it.

rob1bike is correct in saying it is not a lube and can remove any present lube.
--------

saying lube in your head over and over makes it lose it's meaning and then it just sounds funny. lube.

[sledge]

I am gonna stick my oar in on this one....again at the risk of causing an argument.
Modern control cables are made from a steel-wire......non rusting stainless steel on the  more expensive bikes like BM`s and Dukes`s, encased in a nylon/PTFE or other self lubricating plastic tube and do not as a rule need regular lubrication. The idea they do comes from the days when cables were made from materials that did not have self-lube properties, like those on many old Brit-bikes and probably HD`s too. They become tight when water enters and rusts the steel wire, this build up reduces the clearances makes movement difficult and makes them stiffen up. A bit of WD40 is not a bad thing, particularly on the ends of the cable which are not covered and where the lozenge is. It will displace any moisture and provide an additional amount of lubrication but without using a tool like the one in the link its a hit and miss affair as there is no certainty the lube is travelling the full length of the cable.
My view is once a cable becomes stiff...replace it, particularly the clutch cable. They dont cost huge amounts of cash and are not difficult to swap out. If its gone tight rust has formed inside it or the outer has become worn, either way its integrity has been reduced. WD40 may free it off slightly but the damge will have been done and it will now be well on the way to failing totaly....and you can bet a pound to a pinch of shi*e that when it does snap you will be miles from home..... at night ......in the pi**ing rain.

http://www.thefastone.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=523837

[rob1bike]

I agree, my pet peeve(sp) is wd40 being considered a lube



Lube
Lube
Lube

Its amazing that our cables last as long as they do with little or no after thought.
Lube

[Affschnozel]

Here's a good tip for lubing the insides of cables without the special tool as described in some manual I have:
detach the upper cable end ,rap a plastic cone around it, fasten it tight just below the tip,pour some motor oil in the cone,let the oil work out it's way down the cable and out the other end(takes some hours). Works great,just a bit messy.

[Jughead]

Another Good Lube would be Lock Graphite Powder from Auto Zone.It will be Hard to get it in but does a Great Job and Doesn't Attract Dirt.

Not to start an argument, but

I never lube my cables because #1 they don't come lubed. #2 lube attracts dirt which can bind up your cables worse than rust.

If there is a specific lube for these types of cable, I am unaware of it.

In my experience I have found that WD40 inside those cables will still be there at least for a year.  Not as a lube of couse, but as an additional barrier to water. WD40 does evaporate, but whenever I check my cables I still smell it and can feel it on my finger tips months after I applied it.

rob1bike is correct in saying it is not a lube and can remove any present lube.
--------

saying lube in your head over and over makes it lose it's meaning and then it just sounds funny. lube.

Yes there is Cable Lube and New Cables from Suzuki Aren't Lubed because that is Only an Extra Cost for them.The Old Stock cables Pre 1980 (Maybe later) were Lubed.I recieved a 400Lb Box of cables last summer in a Dealer buyout and from Years of Hanging on the Rack and being Moved Around all of the Lube had Came out of the Cables and were Covered Solid with a Heavy Duty Film of Grease all over the Outside.

[rob1bike]

I ride/race bicycles and bike control cables are tiny and  thin. Several companies make all sorts of cables; teflon coated, special linings, etc. I've always had bad luck with all those cables and they are way pricey! The cable has to be perfect or close to it or it won't shift. Always use plain cables and coat them with a good waterproof grease. Works well, but I change em at least once a year. I've used spray lubes before, they worked good but for a very short time then its worse.
I guess my point is grease is good, but watch out. I'd say screw it, put a new cable in and ride. You'll most likey never deal with that cable again.

[3imo]

I am gonna stick my oar in on this one....again at the risk of causing an argument.

I think you cleared it up for all of us. 

Yes there is Cable Lube and New Cables from Suzuki Aren't Lubed because that is Only an Extra Cost for them.The Old Stock cables Pre 1980 (Maybe later) were Lubed.I recieved a 400Lb Box of cables last summer in a Dealer buyout and from Years of Hanging on the Rack and being Moved Around all of the Lube had Came out of the Cables and were Covered Solid with a Heavy Duty Film of Grease all over the Outside.

cool, Thanks. Knowing is half the battle.

I agree, my pet peeve(sp) is wd40 being considered a lube

I saw the story behind wd40 on the History channel awhile back.  Modern Marvels or How it works. One of those types of shows. The name WD40 is derived from "Water Displacement" and the fact that it was the guys 40th try.

cool, huh?

[The Buddha]

Water dispersion ... clown.
Cool.
Srinath.

[brett]

Thanks for the tips folks. I was busy this weekend and didn't get a chance to check it out yet. I'm gonna go check the spring tonight, that sounds like it's the heart of the problem.

Water dispersion ... clown.
Cool.
Srinath.

I beg to differ. Drop a can of WD40 in water and see if it displaces any. 

[mjn12]

Actually, if you drop a can of wd40 in water it will displace it. Dropping anything with mass into water will displace it.

Leave it to an engineer to ruin the joke.