Chain + sprocket replacement tips - from nub

[nightrider]

Chain + sprockets replacement: how-to notes

From a first timer with a small toolbox here are some tips learned after 4 & 1/2 hours of pain.

Hardest Parts:

1) Breaking nuts on rear tire sprocket

solution: vice grip clamped on end of socket wrench to increase leverage. This worked, however because of the extreme tightness perhaps plus previous threadlock, all nuts ended up with beveled or "pushed" corners on their heads. Not sure if that one is going to make it off next time.  Buy dremel tool later?

2)  rear axle jams hard on replacement because of new, shorter chain length and prior configuration of rear brake caliper, rear wheel adjusters, etc

solution: wrench axle back out with much pain and cursing and lack of understanding, then after much deliberation, loosen bolt/nut that holds the caliper to the caliper arm so it can flex to a new position.

3) Understanding that the entire swingarm and the rear shock must be unbolted to remove the chain.

solution: don't rely on hmmmnz' "Sprocket How-To" http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=32013.0 if you are going to replace your chain as well as sprockets. This sprocket how-to applies only to the ridiculously simple task of replacing the sprockets.

4) Worrying about the increasingly rounded and perhaps insufficiently tightened nuts and bolts on all parts of the bike, due to lack of a torque wrench or whatever you call it, replacement nuts/bolts, and having only light threadlock.

solution: ordering replacement nuts and/or bolts for the next time this must be done, strong threadlock for peace of mind, maybe check every nut and bolt more frequently, perhaps buy a torque wrench or whatever you call it and check every nut and bolt later.

Phew.

[dgyver]

....

3) Understanding that the entire swingarm and the rear shock must be unbolted to remove the chain.

solution: don't rely on hmmmnz' "Sprocket How-To" http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=32013.0 if you are going to replace your chain as well as sprockets. This sprocket how-to applies only to the ridiculously simple task of replacing the sprockets.
....

You do not have to remove the swingarm if you can cut the chain, since replacement chains use a master link.

[l3uddha]

here are some tips:


get a damn piece of steel PIPE! 1' -1.5' . makes breaking bolts a sinch whan used to extend the wrench... and you'll probably find one lying on the ground somewhere.


get a torque wrench! $25 @ SEARS?  I'd have a helluva time riding my bike if I were worrying about stuff falling off! 

[nightrider]

Re replacement chain: I got a stock one. Stock sprockets too. Am I missing out, and are the master link kind just as reliable?

Pipe & torque wrench... will do.

Does any of it really fall off though... really... 

[dgyver]

If installed properly, master links are reliable. If you are concerned about a clip style master link, rivet master links are available but they require a tool to install them properly.

[coll0412]

Yeah dude you made that install a little harder than it should be 

Yeah next time just cut the chain off with a dremel, or go and buy a chain breaker for like $20, because removing the swing arm is a pain in the ass.

And if you can not get the leverage you need, buy what is refered to as a breaker bar from your local hardware store, they are like 10 dollars, have a 3/8 or 1/2 drive but without the ratcheting action, great for stuff like that.

If the bolts are rounded definitely just buy new ones, but lock tight is not super necessary since those bolts on there are self locking, they have tab at the top of the bolt that digs itself into the metal, but still a good idea for piece of mind.

However, you did bring up a good point about the brake stay arm, which out of the factory is put on hella tight, and requires loosing so that the caliper can move forward. Other so-called noobs and people who search this topic remember this!

But next time put a quick post up when working on it if you dont know how to do something, people frequent this board enough that you can get the help or answer within 30min

Good Job anyway, you can only learn by doing so way to go

[gsJack]

1) Breaking nuts on rear tire sprocket

Get one of those impact tools that you hit with a hammer, putting a long piece of pipe on a wrench is a good way to round off heads or break bolts.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00947641000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

I've never changed a rear sprocket on any bike putting 80k miles on a CB750K, 98k miles on a CM400A, and 80k miles the 97 GS500E.  Never saw a rear sprocket worn enough to change if you keep them lubed.

3) Understanding that the entire swingarm and the rear shock must be unbolted to remove the chain.

My garage is across the street behind another apt bldg and without electricity so power tools are out.  Those white hacksaw blades will walk right thru a chain with little effort.  I have always used the clip type master  link replacement chains and still do if Sledge isn't watching.   

4) Worrying about the increasingly rounded and perhaps insufficiently tightened nuts and bolts on all parts of the bike, due to lack of a torque wrench or whatever you call it, replacement nuts/bolts, and having only light threadlock.

Get a torque wrench.  I use a Craftsman 3/8" drive torque wrench for engine work, my hands are almost as accurate as a torque wrench for most anything else.  Good one for bike work:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944690000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Torque+Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

[Trwhouse]

Hi there,
I agree with coll0412 and Jack...
Man, you made this harder on yourself than you had to, bub!
Always break an old chain with a cheap chain breaker or cut it off with a hacksaw, and always use a torque wrench -- that $25 Craftsman beam-type wrench is fine to start -- but MOST IMPORTANTLY -- we are all here to help each other.
That's why the first thing you should do even before buying parts is ASK about these things here.
Many of us would have told you not to buy stock sprockets and chains because the dealer would charge you a lot more than you needed to pay.
I just bought replacement steel sprockets -- 39T rear and a 16T countershaft sprocket -- and a superior Tsubaki Alpha Gold 520x110 link o-ring chain complete with free shipping for $116 altogether from Parts411.com via mail order. A steal compared to the local dealer and the chain is much better.
There are people here who are newbies, and others like myself with 32 years of riding and wrenching experience and many in between.
Ask away -- that's why we're all here to help each other, learn from each other and have some fun along the way.
Best wishes,
Todd

[coll0412]

where are the sprockets on parts411.com, i cant seem to find them

I was just about to order some, but at $116 thats a steal

[Trwhouse]

Hi there,
Call them at their toll-free number ... 1-877-484-4860.
You have to call to order things like the sprockets to fit your specific bike.
I ordered the following:
1  Tsubaki Alpha Gold 520-110 link o-ring chain  $80.30  part no. H18-172-110-PU
1 JT rear steel 39T sprocket                           $20.50  part no. JTR823-39-PU
1  JT countershaft 16T stock-sized sprocket     $ 7.88   part no. JTF565-16-PU
1  Tsubaki spare clip connecting link (for toolkit) $7.90  part no. H18-173-PU

Total         with FREE SHIPPING over $100 order   $116.58

I ordered it all on Jan 15, 2007 and had it in a week from California.
It was much cheaper than everywhere else I checked.

I'd highly recommend them.

Best wishes,

Todd

[nightrider]

Yea... besides the thrilling experience of now having handled my swingarm and rear shock a little bit I maybe wish I had checked on here first. Paid $140 for chain and sprockets from dealer. Actually, the guy at the counter commented that they were all stock, like maybe I should try something else. lol.

And yes, the rear sprocket in no way needed replacing. Actually the wear was very very slight and would take you some effort to see. However, I knew my chain was loose, and didn't know from looking how worn my rear sprocket was. So I decided to follow the OEM-ideal Clymer recommendation and replace both sprockets when replacing the chain. Besides, I had the fricking sprocket now, what was I going to do, let it burn a hole in my pocket... Well theres a perfectly good sprocket in the trsh can outside now.

[coll0412]

Thanks so much...you are way to helpful..j/k

[nightrider]

actually I went and got it. The profile of the teeth is pretty much like new. Would you like pics?

[coll0412]

Sure, pics would be great

heck if you wanted to be super cool you could give it to me for shipping costs 

[nightrider]

front and back.

Its in good shape actually, but if you can get this for $20 at that one place Im not sure its worth it for us. How does $109.99 sound.

[nightrider]

I was just kidding. Dont be mad. But if I asked for $15 for shipping, a box, and the trouble, it'd be only $5 more for a new one. So, it's up to you. 

[coll0412]

Damn work, been so busy, cant get to posts...arrg

anyways nightrider thanks for the offer, but yeah after shipping and all, its really not worth it. But I do appreciate the offer.

Hang on  to it when you replace the chain again, maybe your new wont last as long

[hmmmnz]

Chain + sprockets replacement: how-to notes

From a first timer with a small toolbox here are some tips learned after 4 & 1/2 hours of pain.

Hardest Parts:

1) Breaking nuts on rear tire sprocket

solution: vice grip clamped on end of socket wrench to increase leverage. This worked, however because of the extreme tightness perhaps plus previous threadlock, all nuts ended up with beveled or "pushed" corners on their heads. Not sure if that one is going to make it off next time.  Buy dremel tool later?

2)  rear axle jams hard on replacement because of new, shorter chain length and prior configuration of rear brake caliper, rear wheel adjusters, etc

solution: wrench axle back out with much pain and cursing and lack of understanding, then after much deliberation, loosen bolt/nut that holds the caliper to the caliper arm so it can flex to a new position.

3) Understanding that the entire swingarm and the rear shock must be unbolted to remove the chain.

solution: don't rely on hmmmnz' "Sprocket How-To" http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=32013.0 if you are going to replace your chain as well as sprockets. This sprocket how-to applies only to the ridiculously simple task of replacing the sprockets.

4) Worrying about the increasingly rounded and perhaps insufficiently tightened nuts and bolts on all parts of the bike, due to lack of a torque wrench or whatever you call it, replacement nuts/bolts, and having only light threadlock.

solution: ordering replacement nuts and/or bolts for the next time this must be done, strong threadlock for peace of mind, maybe check every nut and bolt more frequently, perhaps buy a torque wrench or whatever you call it and check every nut and bolt later.

Phew.

lol hahah, you took off the swing arm lol,
wow, i didnt mention the chain in the write up as i thought it was a no brainer (no offence) that you cut your chain off or remove your splitlink (if you had one)
lol, well they say assumption is the mother of all fuckups
glad you sorted it in the end... if not doing it the extremly hard way. live and learn aye

[sledge]

I am one of those people who dont like using jointed chains and dont see any issues with removing and refitting the swing arm to replace one. Anyone thinking about it shouldnt be put off......I thought you all liked wrenching  Ok its tricky but not difficult, plus it gives you the chance to inspect the shock` and inspect and relubricate the needle roller bearings in the pivots and linkages, and you can get all the dirt and crap out from areas underneath you cant normally get to.
When I got my GS the swingarm had rusted in the "Crotch". I bought a used one from a breaker, cleaned it up/painted it and swapped them over with no drama. At the same time I fitted new sprockets and an endless chain. The hardest part I found was getting onto and releasing some of the nuts/bolts which are nylocks and torqued up high. You need good quality metric ring-spanners, sockets and a breaker-bar to crack the nuts......and a good Trq-wrench to do them back up.
I sold the old arm to someone, on Gs500.co.uk. Think his name was Suzukimad, he had the intention of having it chrome-plated.

[nightrider]

why do you always say Cheesy, Hmmmz