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How to identify finished brakepads?

Started by nightrider, March 11, 2007, 10:33:04 PM

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ohgood

Quote from: sledge on March 12, 2007, 10:36:26 PM
I would be interested to know how a machine shop could skim the rotors, particularly the front one....think carefully before answering.


Well, depending on the machines available at your local machine shop, there are a few ways to resurface a brake rotor.

1) Hammer them until the metal is closely uniform, then turn.
2) Turn on a spindle.
3) Turn on a jig specifically designed to mimic your rotor's attaching points, made especially for that one style rotor.
4) Surface grind.
5) Blanchard grind.
6) Spin it on a rod by contacting a sanding belt. (YIKES OUCH HOT)

and on and on.

If it were up to me, and there were nasty grooves in my rotors, I'd just replace the things since they've been hot/cold/hot/cold and stressed a few thousand times.

.02


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

che mike

Quote from: Kasumi on March 14, 2007, 08:19:43 AM
Other problems with the back brake could be it is set at the wrong angle so when your comfortable on the bike your actually resting with the back brake on abit. Ive seen this on many BMW GS's and even saw it on the long way round. Out of the factor the lever is really flat with the foot rest due to maybe been stood up alot doing off road riding but on the road when your resting lots of people have the rear brake on all the time. I've seen them glow. So check that your brake lever is adjusted right or just put ur foot under or off to the side of it. Also dont bother resurficing your discs. The GS doesn't have a huge stopping power so the tiny little grooves mentioned won't affect it too much. You won't even notice is my bet.

Not only that, but I think when you're riding you should have the balls of your feet on the pegs, so no part of your foot is over the rear brake lever even if it IS adjusted wrong. This technique prevents panic grabs of the rear brake: you have to consciously move your foot prior to hitting it.

sledge

Ohgood?
My comments in return, bear in mind these relate just to the front disc

1) You could grip and face one side in a lathe but how would you clock the second face to the first when it is facing into the chuck and get a uniform thickness? please explain.
2) No chance
3) No chance
4) No chance
5) Never heard of Blanchard grinding and right now I cant be arsed googling, I suspect I might know it by a different term, until I find out what it is you get the benefit of the doubt.
6) Downright comical is the only description that springs to mind

Can I ask if you have you ever actually seen the front disc from a GS5? if not I suggest you go and look carefuly at one, if you have seen one what do you notice about the contact surface and its relation to its hub/fixing points......Clue: It is nothing like the disc you would expect to see fitted to a car if that is any help.

coll0412

Not to be a negative nancy here but here is a list of things you guys should know

1. You can not turn full floating rotors(the front ones) and dont worry about the rear rotor

2. The pads in the front wear out quickly, they come out of the package with a small amount of lining so check them every oil change(just peek at them from the side)

3. If your rear rotor is that worn down you need to use less rear brake. Some people when they start riding the GS use alot of rear brake(myself included), The reason for this is because the GS front end is so soft that when you use the front it really dives. What really sucks, is that you get used to using so much rear brake that in a panic situation you end up locking up the rear and tip over(with out ever slowing). You should use a majority of braking in the front, the whole MSF 60 -40 jazz or whatever is so out dated that it should be thrown out the door. Remember that this was written when people were still riding with drum brakes and shaZam!(Okay maybe I am exaggerating abit) but the first thing you learn when you goto a different streed riding course is to use 2 fingers on the brake and focus on using the front. First apply the brakes gently and as the weight transfers forward start squeezing it harder until your almost stopped, then slowly release as you stop so that the front end comes up nicely. Rant off
CRA #220

nightrider

point taken about rear brake esp. re soft front forks, I put progressives in so it doesnt dive so hard. And focus on front brake. besides the new pads are barely contacting the grooved back anyway so no chance of lockup there :0 though I have done just that multiple times.

2 fingers? I use four. No doubt it's a better grip, and this was stressed in MSF.

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