Tools-am I missing one?

[Jace009gs]

1.How in the world do you guys get to adjust the air mixture screws? NONE of my screw drivers are short enough much less the heat from the motor I'm dreading to stick my hand that close to even with gloves

2. I'm getting a carb sync'er and 6mm adaptors (to use on my FZR too), but I understand that it's not the level but the difference between carbs that you are concerned about. Ex: in perfect world they all read the exact same level.<also ideally for compression as well>

3. My tourque wrench only goes down to 10ft/lbs (1/2" drive) are there other convential ones that still go from like 2ft/lbs up to 45-50? Like I kinda did the "feel snugg" then 1/4 more turn on some of the 8mm nuts and such as 10ft/lbs would probably strip them out   I guess to get to the point is that my FZR has 8mm cam bracket bolts that need to be evenly distributed- If I should have to change a shim I have to pull the entire cam out to get at the bucket then the shim is under the bucket (little Mo-fo I might add.) The feel method just dosn't feel right on important rotating internal engine parts ---have any suggestions

[bubba zanetti]

Well you've come to the right place cause there's plenty of tools here. 

Sorry I've nothing constructive to add.

[dgyver]

There is always a Skewdriver. Great tool to have.

[GeeP]

1)  Take a 1/4" "long" screwdriver insert and grind down the flanks of the flat until it fits.  As far as heat, you'll live.   

2)  Correct.  The difference between the carbs is key.  The idea is to get all carbs flowing the same amount of air.  By flowing the same amount of air to each cylinder vibration is reduced because all cylinders are producing the exact same amount of power.  (If the mixtures are equal)

3)  Get a quality (meaning not from China and over $100) 3/8ths drive torque wrench to cover that range of torques.  Do not rely on "Gut 'N Tight" for bolts that have a torque specification.

[gsJack]

I use this $25 Craftsman 3/8 drive torque wrench for bikes, 0-75 ft-lbs.  A 1/2 drive torque wrench is too big for bike engines and besides I lost the one I used on car cyl heads years ago.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944690000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Torque+Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

In 120k miles of GS500 riding and over 350k miles of total riding, I've never synced any carbs or adjusted any idle screws.  Can't waste riding time messing around around with stuff like that.  Just keep bike moving and gas flowing and carbs will stay clean.   

[Affschnozel]

I love your attitude gsJack
When I searched for my first bike I'm glad I couldn't find a decent bandit 400 that I craved for so much
and ended up buying a GS which was described as: "check for oil,gas and go ride!"

[Jace009gs]

I use this $25 Craftsman 3/8 drive torque wrench for bikes, 0-75 ft-lbs.  A 1/2 drive torque wrench is too big for bike engines and besides I lost the one I used on car cyl heads years ago.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944690000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Torque+Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
In 120k miles of GS500 riding and over 350k miles of total riding, I've never synced any carbs or adjusted any idle screws.  Can't waste riding time messing around around with stuff like that.  Just keep bike moving and gas flowing and carbs will stay clean.   

Thanks A BuNch that's a life saver!-one question on the i-beam do you tighten while looking at the indicator needle then stop when it reaches your tourque spec? Or does it make a click-ing sound at the desired tourque spec like my other t-wrench?

I have this 1/2" drive 22" long one for working on some of the Heavy equipment at Rentals unlimited (@work). I just figured that my lazy bum wouldn't have to grunt on a 125lb bolt and I could use one finger on some of the 35ft bolts ....but then attaching the sub-frame one time I broke the bolt off and I've broken three 1/2"-3/8" adaptors....got em' replace tho free of charge-thanks to Mactools

Well I usually follow your "drive it till it dies" ideology but cyl #2 always has a fouled plug (rich) and the 4th cyl plug is running lean. (greyish) It runs, but like crap and it's hard to start. (hopefully my out of tolerance valves will fix that mostly)...Also 4 carbs I think there is a degree that syncronization is more vital to "desirable" engine mixture.....2 carbs-probably can/do work just fine if not synced.

[gsJack]

No clicky on beam type, gotta watch the pointer and scale for torque value.

I always preferred this type, many others prefer the click type.  Hard to damage a beam type or wear it out like a click type.  Lifetime replacement on Craftsman tools anyway.

[scratch]

I just use the smallest flathead replaceable tip for one of those screwdrivers that has the magnetic replaceable tips.

[Mandres]

I just use the smallest flathead replaceable tip for one of those screwdrivers that has the magnetic replaceable tips.

That's exactly what I do too.  Something like this: 

I grabbed the bit with vice grips and used it to adjust the mixture screws.  You should only have to do it once or twice.

[DerekNC]

You can order a Morgan Carbtune syncher direct from the UK for $106 including shipping. It took less than 10 days for mine to arrive and it works great. There's no dangerous mercury to mess with and that tool should last a lifetime. 

I just finished a complete top end rebuild on my Fizzer in February and can feel your pain as far as the valve adjusting work. A beam type Craftsman torque wrench will work. I used the exact one GSJack described. I doubt it would be extremely accurate at very low torque levels like that but it should still work fine. I don't know if you were able to get a torque wrench on your FZR's valve cover but you can feel the bolts snug down solid so a torque wrench isn't required for that.