I searched for this and nothing???

[bombadillo]

I need to know exact numbers of what kind of chain would be the best bang for the buck on a 1990 gs500 for a 15t front stock rear and what length chain to run.  I just need to know what to get.  Any help would be great.  I searched and searched and really found no good info for this mod.  Thanks in advance

[TragicImage]

a quality 110 link chain.

I went with an DID VM X-Ring Chain.  Replace your rear sprocket, and maybe your front sprocket at the same time.


http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?cart_id=7579658.67596&pid=406&count=1

[Egaeus]

I think it's the other way around.  Always replace the front, and check the rear, as the front gets much more wear being the drive sprocket instead of the driven sprocket.

[coll0412]

Chain- 520 X 110 links O-ring type

I order my stuff through Part411.com and you can get a front & rear sprocket and a DID VR chain for under a $100

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

I think it's the other way around.  Always replace the front, and check the rear, as the front gets much more wear being the drive sprocket instead of the driven sprocket.

Nope. Always replace the rear, check the front. Front sprockets are steel, rear are aluminum. Steel is much harder than aluminum.

[Egaeus]

The guys at the shop want to sell as many chains and sprockets plus the labor to install them as they can, their opinions don't impress me.  I never clean chains, just lube with good chain lube, not wax.  PJ-1 Blue preferred.

With our 0-ring chains the lube for the chains is sealed inside and the lube we spray on the outside is for the sprockets.  I lube when I see shiney rollers, couldn't make them much cleaner than that.

I've never replaced a rear sprocket on a bike yet, never saw one that needed replaced, never noticed any reduction in chain life because they weren't replaced.  Put 80k miles each on a CB750K and on my 97 GS, put 98k miles on a CM400A, and 46k on my current 02 GS500 all on the OEM rear sprockets.

I change the front sprocket every chain or two, they need it and their wear is appearant.  Chains last 15-20k miles for me with year round riding.  Not really worn out yet at this milage but after spring, summer, and fall wear on the o-rings, the heavily salted winter streets here finish them off and they are getting kinky by spring.

Works for me.

[coll0412]

Actually you can get the rears in steel or aluminum, the OE is steel. And the fronts due wear faster, not becuase of the drive but because of how many links share the load, in the back there is like 20 links to spread the load, in the fron there is maybe 5.

THe front sprocket also sees like 2.4 times as many revolutions as the rear sprocket, which means that is comes in and out of contact with 2.4 times more links than the rear does.

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Ok, well Jack is the one who keeps telling us that he's never replaced a front sprocket. I more or less take his word as gold.

[bombadillo]

so if I end up switching it to a 15t up front, stock in the rear the chain will stay the same and I will just have to tighten the chain up a little further out???  I am trying to understand the physics.  I understand gearing and why it all does what it does, but the length of the chain is what is throwing me because I don't want to have to buy a new chain every six months because it stretches out beyond what the adjustment is able to go.  Does this make sense to anyone.  Hopefully what I would like to get is a part number for a 15t front stocker rear and chain number.  Anybody have any info to school me on chains or websites to check out?  Thanks

[Gisser]

so if I end up switching it to a 15t up front, stock in the rear the chain will stay the same and I will just have to tighten the chain up a little further out??? 

Ideally, you would remove 1 chain link for every 1 sprocket tooth less than stock.  But, this is not possible; you have to subtract 2 chain links at a time because chains must have an even number of links (look at your chain and you'll know why).  So with a 15t front sprocket you'll have to choose to be either 1 link shorter (108) or 1 link longer (110) than the stock axle position.   

[Wrecent_Wryder]

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[bombadillo]

so if I end up switching it to a 15t up front, stock in the rear the chain will stay the same and I will just have to tighten the chain up a little further out??? 

Ideally, you would remove 1 chain link for every 1 sprocket tooth less than stock.  But, this is not possible; you have to subtract 2 chain links at a time because chains must have an even number of links (look at your chain and you'll know why).  So with a 15t front sprocket you'll have to choose to be either 1 link shorter (108) or 1 link longer (110) than the stock axle position.   

If I end up with a 108 link chain, will it be too short on the adjustment though???  As in, it won't possibly adjust smaller than what the chain is right now?

[Gisser]

If I end up with a 108 link chain, will it be too short on the adjustment though??? 

I don't think so.  I base that on the fact that some were singing the praises of going up to a 17t sprocket for a wide-ratio tranny with highway overdrive effect.  Chain length wasn't an issue (in terms of axle position, adding a tooth is equivalent to subtracting a chain link).   

[NiceGuysFinishLast]

Ok, well Jack is the one who keeps telling us that he's never replaced a front sprocket. I more or less take his word as gold.

Uh... I pretty much do too, but, no offense, that's not what he said.

For instance, in this thread:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=34704.15

he says:

"I've been buying the same chain and front sprocket from Chaparral almost yearly since 2000...
Never needed a rear sprocket in over 120k GS miles but add $32.96 for a SS steel rear sprocket if you must."

WrecentPWND.. you're right, I'm a tard.

[Wrecent_Wryder]

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