Stock rejet complete - it's a good thing

[debtman7]

Ok, finished doing the stock rejet, 40 pilots and 125 mains, one washer under the needle and 3 turns out. My sputtering and dieing when giving it the gas cold is now fixed. I still had to use some choke to get her started but the carbs were also bone dry. Idle is much smoother, sounded really sweet and much better overall. I can crank the gas immediately after starting and it revs like mad. Sweet.

Glad I got in there though. Someone had been there before, the brass plugs were already gone. But, I suspect part of my problem (and the reason the plugs were fouled) was that the left carb had the screw out about 4 turns and the right about 5 turns. That would probably have fouled some plugs. No idea why someone did that....

Seems happy at 3 turns out.

Still have to check the balance on the carbs but man, it idles soooo much smoother now.

[Gisser]

Ok, finished doing the stock rejet, 40 pilots and 125 mains, one washer under the needle and 3 turns out.

Stop there and you're way ahead of the game.

Well, 2-to-2-1/2 turns out will get you better fuel mileage but that's nitpicking. 

[debtman7]

So three turns is good? Or I should back off? Wiki said 3 so that's what I did Couldn't believe one of them was at 5...

Now the only problem I have is that one of the threaded holes for the screw holding the slide cover on is stripped. The screw itself is fine but it does that thing where you tighten it and it passes a certain tightness, then goes loose, then you tighten more gets tight then loose, etc. I tightened it as best I could, sprayed some starting fluid and didn't get anything, however I'm pretty sure eventually it'll loosen up and I'll get a vacuum leak.

Any ideas how I might fix that?

[dgyver]

Either get a longer screw and use a nut or drill & tap it for the next size larger screw.

[debtman7]

I'm not sure I can get a nut under there, it's one of the rear screws and the bottom of the hole is right over more metal with a pretty slim open area. Grrr.

I've got a #12 tap I'll have to give a shot. Makes me nervous attempting this, if I screw it up then I'm in trouble... I have to check if I can easily widen the hole on the slide cover to fit a larger screw too.

How important is it for that one screw to be really tight? I'm tempted to put some blue loctite on there and just tigten it as much as I can.

Or maybe this thing: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295869&cp=2568455.2629356.1258962&parentPage=family

Can't find too much on how well it works, but it might be worth a shot before trying to tap a new hole. Claims to hold up to 120 lbs of torque, seems to basically be an epoxy you coat the hole with and then insert the bolt and let it dry. It hardens to form new threads matching the inserted bolt, which you coat with a release agent to allow it to be unscrewed.

[The Buddha]

The carbs should have been synched by eyeball when you had them out. If your idle is smooth, I'd say its fine.
Cool.
Srinath.

[gsJack]

The carbs should have been synched by eyeball when you had them out. If your idle is smooth, I'd say its fine.
Cool.
Srinath.

[debtman7]

I actually ended up skipping the balancing, since I found that getting a fluid stream of water into a tiny aquarium line is really really hard, and getting the aquarium line to fit over the vacuum ports is equally difficult. It runs good, so eh.

Tonight I'll have to try and tap a new thread. It seems that as cool as the loctite form-a-thread is, nobody actually sells it. Let's hope I don't screw up, not sure if anything bigger than a #12 screw will fit in there...

[Egaeus]

I actually ended up skipping the balancing, since I found that getting a fluid stream of water into a tiny aquarium line is really really hard, and getting the aquarium line to fit over the vacuum ports is equally difficult.

Difficult, but not impossible.  Just like having a leak-free homemade balancer.

[debtman7]

Allright, so I managed to track down the loctite form-a-thread stuff at napa and I'd love to report about how great it is, but instead I'll offer this tip.

If you are trying to use such a product, after it's cured and you try to insert your bolt, make sure you use the appropriate #10 you used to form the new threads, and not try to shove a #12 in there thus ripping out all the nice epoxy thready goodness you made.

So I can't really comment on whether it works or not, at least not until my next stripped threading...

On the plus side after that it took 30 seconds to use a #12 tap and thread the hole and it's now fastened down tight.

[MikeNW]

I don't know if you GS people have this problem, but on the Concours (4 carbs) when you pry off the pilot covers, the pilot screws range from 0 to 3 turns out, from the factory.

Everyone ends up setting them about 2 to 3 and she runs soooo much better.  With just that mod.  No wonder she was so hard to synch originally!

Ride safe