Throttle cable routing and question

[j0eb0b]

I am almost certain that my remaining carb problem is related to the throttle cable.  THe main problem is the getting the bike to return to idle after you crank it up (it wants to hang at 2500 to 3000 rpm)

Some questions:

Is there a FAQ or does anyone have a picture of how the throttle cable is supposed to be routed and secured?  I have searched the forum and couldn't find a FAQ or how-to on this.

The throttle cable on my bike is loose where it attaches to the handlebar.  The screw and retainer securing the cable to the throttle on the handlebar is  installed but don't seem to really do anything (ie. I can wiggle the cable when the retainer is screwed down tight).  Is there supposed to be some some type of shim between the retainer and throttle cable to hold it rigid? 

The Clymer manual is fairly useless on this subject.  Can anyone tell me the proper sequence to try and adjust the cable?  Do I need a new one?

Thanks,
Joe

[GeeP]

Hi Joe,

What year is your GS?

The throttle cable will have some play where it exits the grip.  That's normal.

Open up the throttle about a quarter turn or less, then let go.  Can you hear the butterfly shafts "click" against the idle stop?  If not, stick your fingers between the rear of the cylinder head and the carb and try pushing the throttle shafts closed.  Did they move?

If the throttle doesn't click closed and you were able to push the shafts to the stop it is likely your throttle cable is old and in need of lubrication or replacement.  Just to be certain, you can remove the throttle cable from the carbs once you get the tank off.  If they click closed without the cable in place then the cable is definately the problem.

If everything works fine, you have another problem.

The throttle cable routing will vary.  What is important is that there are no tight bends or kinks, that there is plenty of clearance from hot parts of the engine, and that there is sufficient spare cable around the steering head to allow the steering to turn lock to lock.  To test for sufficient slack cable around the steering, start the bike and turn the steering lock to lock at idle.  The RPM should not rise.  If it does, you don't have sufficient throttle cable slack, or the cable sheath is binding.

[gsJack]

  To test for sufficient slack cable around the steering, start the bike and turn the steering lock to lock at idle.  The RPM should not rise.  If it does, you don't have sufficient throttle cable slack, or the cable sheath is binding.

Or the choke cable needs more slack.  After puting the GenMar risers on to move the bars back, I had the engine revving up at full lock right.  The choke cable had to re-routed behind the fork leg instead around the front of it.  Make sure both the throttle and choke cables have enough slack thru lock to lock movement.  Pulling the choke enrichers open will rev it up too.

[j0eb0b]

My bike is a 1993 GS 500 E

I'll check both suggestions about the  enrichment circuit and the throttle cable. 

The deal here is the bike starts easily when choked but produces too little power to ride with the chock on.  Unless the bike is really warm it won't idle unless I crank the idle adjuster.  When i get it to idle at 1000- 1200, it wants  to hang between 2500-3000 after I rev it up.  while its hanging I can crank the idle adjuster out and the idle drops back to  near normal.  I have to go through this exercise for up to 10 minutes.  Once it is fully warm, the idle still doesn't want to come down sometimes unless I begin to engage the clutch while holding the break.  When i do this, its drops right down.

I am new to this bike but not to metric motorcycles.  The story behind this one is it was wrecked (front wheel, forks, triples, mirros and various ancillary bits)  and sat for 4 years.  Needless to say, the fuel was a witches brew when i got it.  I have tried most of the normal stuff: cleaning the fuel tank and replacing the fuel, taking the carbs apart (repeatedly)  cleaning out the funk and blowing compresssed air through the lot.  I fixed vacumm leaks (that i induced) and balanced the carbs.  The bike is running stock jetting and exhaust and definitely runs lean.  Having not ridden a twin like this since my 1973 Norton Commando, I'm not sure how much vibration is normal.  The bike feels a little sluggish below 4000 and then seems to get some legs from 5000 toward the red line. 

Once i get this bike sorted it is on its way to a new home with my son in Atlanta.  If anyone knows of a good resource in the atlanta area for the GS he will probably neeed some help/advice going forward.

Thanks for the help.