Replace Clutch Cable - How Difficult?

[rprata]

Unfortunately my Clymer / Haynes manual is in storage in RI, and my bike is here with me in RI.  I want to replace the clutch cable, as I think it's getting stretched out.  How difficult is it to replace the cable?  Is it fairly simple/straight forward to do on my own, or should I take it to a shop?

Thanks!

[Kerry]

Unfortunately my Clymer / Haynes manual is in storage in RI, and my bike is here with me in RI.

The bike is really in CA, right?  

The cable replacement is plenty easy enough to do yourself.  If you've ever had the gas tank off, you have all the experience you'll need.  In fact, I'm not positive that you NEED to take the tank off, but it's easier with it out of the way.

You'll need to take the gear shift lever off, so scratch a little alignment mark on it to help you get it back in the same place on the shaft.  Once the side cover is off, the disassembly is straightforward.  Then just do the reverse to reassemble.

Note 1: Keep track of how your original cable is routed (under the tank, etc.).  When I replaced my cable, I sent it through an "easier" way and it's been rubbing paint off of the bottom of the tank ever since.

Note 2: Leave an appreciable amount of adjustability at the lower end of the cable, so you can run out at the lever end several times.

[rprata]

Unfortunately my Clymer / Haynes manual is in storage in RI, and my bike is here with me in RI.

The bike is really in CA, right?  

:nana:  yes the bike is in CA.  My bad LOL

So I need to take the tank off, and then remove the shift lever from the shaft, and remove the engine cover on that side?  I assume I'm not going to loose 4 quarts of oil .. (or, should I drain the oil first, and do an oil change at the same time??)

I figure it can't be that hard to do, so I'll try to tackle it next week after I buy the cable.

Any gotchas in this job?  Thanks.

[Bob Broussard]

There is no oil behind the side case you need to remove.
After you remove the shift lever, take out the 5 bolts (8mm socket).
You will see a metal tab that holds the cable end in place. You need to bend the tab to remove the cable.
It needs to be bent back after the new cable is installed. This keeps the cable end from popping out of the mechanism.
Now is also a good time to clean up the chain lube gunk that accumulates around the countersprocket.
Also when you take the tank off, turn off the petcock before removing hoses. Take a flattip screwdriver and turn the slot sideways (either direction).
The slot should be in line with the hoses when you connect everyting and turn it back on.