Upgrading Exhaust

[punisherlp]

I have a 2001 GS500 and was looking to upgrade from the stock exhaust
After looking through the forums I havent found a complete answer to my question.
I have decided on buy the V&H full exhaust system http://www.amazon.com/2-Into-1-Supersport-Canister-2001-2002-1989-2000/dp/B0067F4QYS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=YGU3FLSF3DCB&coliid=I1HXE76ILCOIKU.
But before I order, what is involved with the installation of a new exhaust system? I have read of replacing gaskets, rejetting (which I dont know how to do yet), and general replacement of rusted screws.

Thanks

[adidasguy]

I put a V&H on one and only replaced it. Did nothing more.

Here's how I put on a Motad exhaust (Motad came from the UK!):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eMGNolMuEU&list=PLD69FF46ABA0D8D4B&index=9&feature=plpp_video

For V&H, don't forget to install the bracket that supports the center stand when it is up. The instructions are not clear on that.

[r8ter316]

1. Cool video Adidasguy!

2. Previous owner put V&H on mine...sounds great. Good quality exhaust as far as the welds and canister. Bike is rejetted.

[punisherlp]

The previous owner rejetted so Im not sure of the settings.  It looks like the original owner had cut the exhaust and put on a stock exhaust from a newer model. I dont think they did anything with the any of the other sections, so im guessing i will need to replace the gaskets. Would putting on the V&H be very difficult? I have never done anything like this to a bike.

Thanks

[adidasguy]

V&H is pretty much the same as you see in the video.

Differences:
1. I recall the V&H ts held together with wprings so you put it together then put it on
2. You have the bracket for the center stand rest. It bolts onto the right bolt for the center stand. DO THAT FIRST! Once the exhaust is on, you can't get at the bolt to install the bracket.
3. ALWAYS use new gaskets, They are cheap.
4. ALWAYS recheck torque on the header bolts every few rides after you install as they work loose and the gaskets compress down
5. Use Anti-Seize  on the header bolts.

[sledge]

..........4. ALWAYS recheck torque on the header bolts every few rides after you install as they work loose and the gaskets compress down
5. Use Anti-Seize  on the header bolts.

IF and I stress if......you decide to follow the above advice you need to consider the effect anti-seize compound has on torque settings and act accordingly........Otherwise you may well be back asking how to deal with snapped or stripped header bolts!!

Plenty on the net on the subject.

This is the first article I found.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/604971-anti-seize-over-torquing-bolts.html

A lot of advice gets given out in this forum, some of it is sound but some of it although given with good intention is not and does not follow convention or good engineering practice. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing and its an inherent problem in forums like this.

At the end of the day its your call over who you choose to listen to, I am just trying to help ...... 

[dam]

OK, so I've read many times that when using anti-seize that you need to use different torque values or you'll have big problems It must be true? I'll just do as I always have and use normal torque values. And that's exactly what the manufacturer of the anti-seize I use says to do

Here it is straight from Permatex: http://www.permatex.com/component/documents/?view=tds&format=raw&filename=77124.pdf&market=automotive

Under the section Directions for use, "6. Reassemble parts using normal torque values."

[RossLH]

OK, so I've read many times that when using anti-seize that you need to use different torque values or you'll have big problems It must be true?

The thing about anti-seize that too often goes unaddressed is that it is a lubricant. Torque specs are designed to return a specific clamping load. When a lubricant is introduced to the system, the same clamping load can be achieved using significantly less torque (a good rule of thumb for anti-seize is use 40% less than specified for a dry bolt). Using the dry torque spec with anti seize is a great way to inadvertently strip the threads, snap the bolt, or damage the work piece.

Use your head, man. When it comes to assembly, more torque is never the answer.

[dam]

I'll trust the manufacturer and follow their recommendation. Every one else is free to do as they fit.
Did you read the Technical Data Sheet I linked to?

[RossLH]

Every word of it. I see their recommendation, and I entirely disagree with it. They even call it a lubricant, meaning it decreases the friction between male and female threads. Less thread friction means less torque required to achieve the desired clamping load. If you use the specified torque with a lubricant, your clamping load is going to increase significantly, and that never ends well.

[sledge]

And that's exactly what the manufacturer of the anti-seize I use says to do

Well they would.....wouldnt they 

You can use the original torque setting with ant-seaze if you want, it doesnt mean it will have the same effect 

[sledge]

The best way to overcome the problems associated with those cap-head header bolts Suzuki fitted to save 0.01Yen per bike is to adapt the same design principle applied to the oil filter cover..........Throw the fecking things away and replace them with plated studs and nuts.

Like these..... http://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Exhaust_Manifold_Studs__Nuts_and_Hardware.html

Perhaps IF I SHOUT LOUD ENOUGH it might be considered as a viable option 

[XealotX]

I have learned FAR more from Sledge's posts than from most any other forum member. A new rider/bike maintainer would do well to read through his archived posts.

I still have no idea who the hell "Ken" is though... 

[sledge]

Ken has not been in for a while, he is probably busy watching Red Dwarf DVDs or catching snakes in his barn or playing with his new backhoe!!........but he did comment on a Facebook pic of mine a few weeks ago.

You will know who he is when he turns up next 

[weedahoe]

I put anti seize on my new header bolts when I redid my exh. I really didnt want to deal with broken bolts later bown the road. With that being said, when Im bored and playing with the bike on the stand or changing oil I usually go over all my bolts and make sure they are snug.

Things on a bike tend to work themselves loose with the vibrations